Hot answers tagged

11

Saturn had a recall on this problem on L-Series vehicles. You may be having a similar problem on the S Series although I cannot find any information on it for your vehicle. Below is the recall info on the L-Series. 2000 - 2002 Saturn L-Series Vehicles (All Models) # 02-C-02 - (Aug 16, 2004) INACCURATE ODOMETER READING AFTER LOSS OF BATTERY POWER (...


6

Here is how this could have happened on the 2002 BMW I used to own. I know the guts of that car particularly well, I am sure the Saturn is similar. The mileage is actually stored in two places in the car. One place is the instrument cluster and the second is in the DME (the "computer"), both of those will count up the miles independently. If the cluster ...


5

Most likely cause is a bad motor. Give the bottom of the door panel a good whack. Careful if it's cold as you can crack the door panel. This may be enough to jar the brushes in the motor to make it work long enough to get the window up. Another way to tell if it's the window motor is with the dome light on, watch the light when you push the up or down ...


5

I found a site called actron.com that describes OBDII codes. Autozone explains what the camshaft position sensor is. Camshaft Position Sensor Actuator Operation The Camshaft Position (CMP) actuator is attached to each camshaft and is hydraulically operated in order to change the angle of the camshaft relative to Crankshaft Position (CKP). ...


5

Its possible the cable got pushed out of the equalizer bar. Check cable connections on both ends of the cables, inside the drum and the equalizer bar. Also be sure the parking brake bar inside the drum is installed properly. Equalizer bar image Brake drum cable


5

Those are just regular Clips if you take those to AutoZone they sell them all cars have them majority of all of use the same ones I don't even think they have a part number I'm sure they don't they sell them by the 10 packs I think


5

The LCD panel is failing internally and will need replacing with another one. There is no way to repair the panel itself.


4

This link should prove useful if you've not found an answer yet. According to that they're identical.


4

It appears to me you bought a car which had the mileage rolled back on it. The only way I'd consider myself wrong in this is if you bought it new. When an odometer has been tampered with, sometimes they stay where they are supposed to and other times it can revert. This really depends on the vehicle and the device used to monkey with the odometer. The ...


4

Fuel filler neck or pipe, it connects to a rubber hose (8) that connects to the tank (1). Hose clamps (9) are used to secure the hose. If it come loose from the tank then you need to tighten the clamps. If the filler neck is coming a loose from the fender area then you need to tighten or replace the fasteners there. It doesn't look like it's sold separately ...


4

If your car was running ok, then the alternator was at least providing charge. The fact you couldn't turn it on again after stopping suggests the battery was not holding any charge. So my initial guess would be battery (after eventually deciphering your question I realise you already tried replacing that) I'd suggest you do also look at the alternator as ...


4

To drain the coolant fully you will need to both open the drain (probably the petcock, but check for something around the lower radiator hose as well) and open the cap so that you allow air in. You could also pull off the bottom radiator hose. Be sure to catch the coolant as it comes out, many are both attractive and toxic to animals. If for some reason ...


4

The evap test system creates a vacuum in the fuel system in order to check for integrity. The cap check light comes on when there is air leak somewhere in your system - it might be tank or cap or something else. If you have replaced the cap, sometimes new caps don't fit properly and leak some air inside the tank, or you could actually have a hole in the tank,...


3

sounds like the cylinder head became warped or cracked during the overheating. I'm not familiar with your car so it may be possible it's just the head gasket and not the actual head. Cylinder heads have "caverns" and ports to circulate coolant and oil throughout the head, but normally seperately. if they are mixing, something is very wrong. i would advise ...


3

I would take a guess at a faulty ignition switch. The radio usually comes on with the ignition witch in position 1, but the ignition in position 2. The radio stopped working, then after turning the switch, the ignition stopped working.


3

I would surely pull the valve cover and scope down to the timing chain tensioner and the plastic runner that it presses against. You can see the top of the guide with a flashlight, but not the bottom with the chain on. Also look at the top guide that the chain slides over, it is held in place by two 10mm bolts if I recall correctly. If the plastic isn't on ...


3

My suggestion is that the filament inside of the bulb is loose. When you rap on it, it reconnect briefly, which lights the bulb. It will continue to do this until it completely burns out. This will probably require a replacement bulb to fix.


3

There is a switch just behind your brake pedal. It controls the clutch inside the torque converter. Generally the code is thrown because there is a short in the circuit. The conditions usually indicate to the computer that the voltage is incorrect or that the speed at which the vehicle is driving doesn't match the data the switch SHOULD be sending to it. ...


3

When you shut off the car the cams can rotate counterclockwise due to spring tension. This compresses the tensioner and if there's too much play in the chain it jumps timing. When you installed the chain, there should be three color marks on the chain that correspond to a mark on each gear. On the cam gears there are diamond marks, on the crank it's just a ...


2

After you stated that you have to wait for it cool before it will run again is an indication that the crankshaft position sensor has failed. You should have a look at how to replace it on your vehicle. It's usually found on either the transmission bell housing (reading off of the flywheel as it rotates) or near the crank pulley at the lower front of the ...


2

It is possible that it is the crank position sensor. My friends trunk had the same problem. It would start and run for maybe 10 minutes then sputter out and die and not be able start again for hours. Turned out to be a crank position sensor.


2

That particular engine (single cam) commonly has an intake gasket leak with high idle as a symptom. There are other common issues with the same behavior such as the throttle position sensor, idle air controller, and engine coolant temperature sensor. Some googling into saturn forums will provide more troubleshooting and info than I could in a reasonable-...


2

If I am correct, the CMP signal is generated by the ICM, the engine doesn't actually have a cam position sensor. The ICM monitors the difference in voltages on the HT coils to work out which cylinders are on the compression cycle. This will explain why the CMP and CKP signals are shifting relative to each other. The synthesised CMP signal is sent to the ...


2

Being a skeptic about such things, I did some research on the internet about the voltage stabilizers. There seems to be several different manufacturers out there, which all claim the same basic thing: Improved audio quality. Increased torque and response and power. Stabilized idling and improved engine kick over. Increased headlight brightness. ...


2

For something along this line would be a diagnostic service fee. When you take a vehicle in for regular maintenance and ask them to see if they notice anything they do not hook up any computers to pull codes and it's typically a visual check. Depending on the tech and if they use a lift some will check suspension but if it's a drive through oil drain area ...


2

The most typical system used by GM is a vacuum decay type system. The system has 3 major components (for leak detection that is); purge solenoid, vent solenoid and a pressure sensor. Under normal operation, the vent solenoid is open and allows air both in and out depending on the situation. The vent solenoid is connected to the outlet of a charcoal ...


2

There are steps to replacing an ECU. Find detailed instructions here. Basically: Disconnect the battery and let the car sit for 15 minutes. Plug the new ECU in, reconnect the battery and turn the key to "accessory" or "on", whatever turns all your warning lights on. Your Check Engine Light needs to be on at this stage or your ECU is defective. Let the car ...


2

Some vehicles don't have any other means of draining other than the petcock, and given your problem with the thermostat housing, you should probably leave that alone unless you want to replace it, which might be a good idea if it has mineral build up. It would be better to drain from the radiator, and fill with the correct coolant over several times. If ...


2

I'm positive that's the air dam and it should be perpendicular to the ground. It looks to have curled over due to the weight of the part. The air dam helps with cooling the radiator. So you definitely want to keep the piece. In the second picture there looks to be a broken bolt and bent bracket. It's hard to tell from the picture. That's where the air dam ...


1

For the no start you'll need to check wiring to the starter. You may or may not have an anti-theft module in your car. Is there a flashing security light when the key is in the on position? Is the battery fully charged? Here's how I would test the circuit, locate the starter relay. In your case it would be under the driver side dash. Pull the relay noting ...


Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible