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11

From what I have seen and read over the last few years the "general rule" has become best tires on the rear. In my opinion it is likely the result of litigation by people who were involved in skidding accidents. The theory as far as I understand it, is that with worn tires in the rear, the back end can loose traction and allow the rear of the car to attempt ...


9

I've a 93 and have had what sounds like the same problem, that is the ignition turns on but when the key is turned further to start the engine it does not always crank the engine. In my case it was the ignition switch and being one not to through money away I took it all apart and cleaned the switch contacts and it's been fine for the past four/five years. ...


9

Yes you need to replace the grease when you replace the boot. That grease lubricates the joint, if you don't have enough inside the boot the joint can fail prematurely. On a side note don't use one of the quick boots (the ones designed to be put on without taking the CV joint off of the car), in my experience they are worthless. Here is an example of a ...


9

I'm living in a country where we need proper winter tires during that season so I have to switch between tires sets twice a year. Each switch I rotate the tires (rotation depends if the tires are direction or not) and mark the position on the one I remove for the next season to make sure to rotate them. Tire rotation is recommended (by Transport Canada and ...


6

As @Moab stated, if it wasn't needed, it wouldn't be there. In most cases, the clip is there to maintain bearing position. Without it, the bearing walks and it drastically shortens the life of not only the bearing, but anything which the bearing comes into contact, mainly the CV joint. When the bearing walks, this puts pressure the CVJ every time you turn a ...


5

Remove the shaft, and throw the boot away. Clean out the old dirty grease, after cleaning the part of course, and replace both the grease and boot. This gives you a chance to inspect the joint, and clean up any dirt residue that will speed up the deterioration of the CV joint.


5

Saab Automobile Parts AB was not included in the sale of Saab Automobile AB. It is now in the ownership of Swedish National Dept Office. Saab Automobile Parts AB is not included in the sale of Saab Automobile AB The parts company continues to serve Saab customers globally with Saab Genuine Parts and aftersales service and also to expand its logistics ...


4

It definitely does sound like a bad wheel hub bearing. Classic pattern of woob-woob-woob-woob. The sound is made as the bearing inner race wobbles around the outer race. This is a safety issue. Replace as soon as possible. Did you take a look at the CV joints? A bad CV boot could have damaged the bearing by filling it up with gunk (a mix of dirt and grease)....


4

No sense at all. You will have a terrible time finding any parts for it. My coworker had a very nice Saab last year, until a thief broke one of his windows. He searched high and low for a new window, and even if one could be found, it would have been overpriced. In the end, the Saab was replaced with a different car simply because of a broken window. Imagine ...


3

Sputtering could be fuel, air, or spark. But yes, spark sounds like a likely culprit. Generally fuel related items will generate a check engine light and codes. (You've not mentioned check engine light or codes, so I'm assuming there are none. If there are Onboard Diagnostics (OBD2) codes you should get those items fixed first.) Plugged air filter is ...


3

If the question involved a brand that sold more units worldwide and had a history of using the same parts for many years I would go for the Saab if it was what I really wanted. I don't know many people who rely solely on the dealer for parts of seven year old cars. Most go to the aftermarket or used for routine wear and crash items. If 2007 was the last year ...


3

The trunk mount bicycle racks are the cheapest. You open your trunk and part of the device sits in there. When you close your trunk it's 'mounted'. They look like this. They are -$40 on ebay.


3

The "sometimes cranks, sometimes starts" description sounds like there are two issues present at the same time. My recommended strategy would be to address the intermittent cranking first. Intermittent starting could be something as simple as a bad battery as Anarach explains. With intermittent cranking, the culprit could be a bad starter motor but since ...


3

if water coming out from exhaust pipe during start up , it is normal. however, if it continuously dripping after several or during running, then check the cylinder head gasket for damage. take note, while water is dripping , white smoke is also noticed if head gasket is damaged.


3

Today seems to be alternator warning light day… You might check some of the other alternator warning light questions as the alternator and its supporting circuitry only has a few variations. You can do a quick check of the alternator if you have access to a DMM (digital multi-meter, an analog one would work fine for this too). With the engine running, ...


3

Your serpentine belt was driving the water pump. When it failed the coolant stopped flowing. The stagnant coolant around the temperature sensor fooled you into thinking the engine was not overheating. It overheated on your way home. Pull off the black cover over the coil packs. I would bet you will see steam coming from around where the plugs go into the ...


3

As raydowe says in their comment the white "smoke" you saw is almost certainly coolant burning/boiling off. This could be from a leak in the system causing coolant to hit hot parts of the engine bay (such as the exhaust manifold) or it could be that the engine has overheated and the coolant has boiled over and escaped via the expansion tank. From the ...


2

The following could be the reason for your car not starting, based on the symptoms you have stated. Car does not crank at all Drained/Dead battery ,Try Jump starting the car, if it starts then it can be the battery, the electrical come on since they don't use as much electricity as the starter motor. Check the cable ends which connect the starter and the ...


2

You have what in polite terms is known as an intermittant fault. Things like fuel pump or it relay, crankshaft sensor or some other component is failing to operate when warm, or even a loose connection somewhere. What I have had some success with on this type of fault is a data logger. (The RAC would have scanned your vehicle and found no faults.) A data ...


2

I have experienced the same symptoms on an engine, where the MAF sensor was giving lower than expected readings. The engine would only run for a few seconds before stalling. A new MAF sensor fixed the problem. I tested my MAF on the bench with a hair dryer and a multimeter. It wasn't until I got a replacement that I could see how low a reading the faulty ...


2

If it is truly water then no problem but if it is antifreeze, you have a problem, Vehicles driven on short runs consistently will do this


2

It's almost always cheaper to fix than replace a car. However when faced with major repairs I always recommend two things. Second opinion/estimate Cost analysis Get a second opinion and estimate. In your case base on the information provided the estimate is really high. I am assuming the "heatbox" is the Heater Core Case if so that's about a 5 hour job, ...


2

Possibly a problem with the computer that controls them (which might be the BCM - Body Control Module, or might be a separate dedicated module). A friend of mine had the same problem with a 2001 BMW, and water had got into said module through a perished seal and shorted a number of connections within it, causing the lights to go on and off at seemingly ...


2

From your description, I doubt anything you've stated is at fault. I would bet the vacuum port you used for testing is associated with another device which is where you heard the "ticking" sound. As this alternate device is turned on/off, it is causing the wild vacuum readings you are seeing. If I were to guess, I would think you are probably reading ...


2

You need to figure out what the liquid is. When the exhaust is cold water vapor in the exhaust (a normal byproduct of combustion) can condense before it gets out and it will drip. That's normal and it should stop once the exhaust system is hot enough that the water vapor no longer condenses. I would think that 15 minutes of driving would be ample to heat the ...


2

My bet is a loose or corroded connection. Leaning toward loose if it is intermittent. I would try cleaning the battery, starter and ground connections of the starting system.


2

I had same issue on saab 9-3 2007. Problem was a faulty cables between battery and chassis. Garage has added additional cable connection between battery and engine (ground) instead of replacing complete wire lines and voila, it starts perfectly again.


1

Crank position sensor under the exhaust manifold will die every 60-100k and cause this problem.


1

I would put money on this being the brakes chuffing on the rotors, or something related with the wheel going around. The easiest way to test this theory is to jack the car up and spin the wheel. Should exhibit the same type of noise.


1

P1549 (Trionic 7) is "Charge Air, Malfunction". (You don't say what year your 9-5 is, but T7 is pretty common.) Since you checked the vacuum hoses going to the charge-air control valve, then it's "basic engine and turbo" to check; but it seems to work below the critical speed. Then, change the charge-air control valve. This is not the same thing as your ...


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