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18

If that is all there is, there is definitely nothing to worry about. It is just a very mild surface rust and is also on none structural components. The top one looks like an engine mount which will be made of fairly thick steel, so it would take a very long time to become weakened. The middle one is just a bracket for the brake ABS solenoids. The bottom one ...


4

As several others have indicated, you need to address the rust prior to getting it painted, otherwise the rust will be back and will probably be worse. There are several videos on YouTube that show how to attack and stop the rust before you get it painted. It will take some elbow grease, some simple tools and some consumables such as primer, filler, rust ...


3

If you have the mad welding skills, this can be repaired. If not, you're looking at a HUGE repair bill. One of the issues here is that the A-pillar is very much structurally important for the vehicle. This area really needs to be done correctly so it will retain it's structural integrity. The glass would need to come out (obviously). You also need to think ...


3

See if your battery will take a charge before you do anything else. Most likely it will take a charge, but always the chance it might not. Best to not spend the money if you don't have to. As far as the brake rotors go ... as long as there isn't any pitting on the rotor, take the car out for a slow drive and brake often. More than likely as long as the ...


2

There is some merit for the suggestion, but with tradeoffs. For the most part, the oil acts as a barrier to oxygen and will prevent a little bit of corrosion. Over time, it'd add up. The tradeoff is, it will collect dirt, which can retain water, which can cause corrosion. If you ever wash your car, all the benefits of the diesel fuel would go away as it gets ...


2

Those are some badly rusted brackets... I would not use heat to loose the bolts, as that will seriously weaken the bracket. Those means are for parts that will be discarded anyway. To remodel them you need to drill out the stubs, as I see no chance to remove them by other means. The "blockade" is strong enough to shear off a 10mm shaft, so vice ...


2

The problem is two-fold: you left it stationary and the discs got surface rust. you brake so light that you hardly use the fronts and due to the brake proportioning valve (front - rear) the rears are hardly used at all. So, you need to regularly drive this with sufficient braking and it may be easier to put some load in the back to force the brake ...


1

Years ago the thick ,black, "undercoating" did promote corrosion over time. Laboratory testing ( Amoco oil) showed that as the coating aged it could crack , then dirt and ( more important) salty water (deicing salts) would get under it accelerating rust of undercarriage. As I remember those doing the test thought it was best to leave the steel bare....


1

Actually, see if you can tighten it ever so slightly first, then hit it with the penetrant/rust agent. Let it sit for the couple of hours, then hit it with some type of thicker lubricating oil. When that's on there, then squeak it back and forth to work in the oil a little bit. You should be able to work it out that way. Heat isn't going to work very well ...


1

Looks like your vehicle has a separate chassis and is not a monocoque design. The chassis will be made from thicker steel than the rest of the body and the small amount of rust that is visible is nothing to worry about, especially if you live in a dry climate. It will be fairly difficult to remove all of it if you are thinking about just using some sand ...


1

I've had some success with heat, usually with a propane torch, penetrating oil, and impact wrenches. But there is no solution that works 100% of the time. Some bolts are just seized so firmly that they break no matter what you do. In that case the best approach is to drill out the bolt with as large a drill as you can. If you can get it thin enough the ...


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