15
IMO you have a fuel starved vehicle. Perhaps some blockage in the gas tank at the petcock filter or an inline filter between your gas tank and the carburetor.
When you run the bike the fuel might not be filling the float bowl at the rate that the engine is consuming fuel. When your bike stalls the fuel is trickling into the float bowl and then you can ...
7
I'd like to pretend I'm an authority on this kind of stuff but I just have another opinion, just like most.
Here are some technical differences between a modern bike and your 'new' Royal Enfield.
Modern bikes have a coating on the inside of the cylinder wall on top of the iron (essentially) sleeve...or in some cases...straight aluminum alloy...really, I'm ...
5
Back in the '80's, I did motorcycle collision repair professionally in California. I straightened quite a few bent forks, using a hydraulic press. We would straighten the triple clamps along with the fork tubes.
First, if the bend was severe, there is likely a crease in the fork tube along the lower edge of the lower triple clamp. We would turn the fork ...
5
That's fuel starvation. Common with carbs and gravity feed. Your enfield has a vacuum petcock. If cleaning fuel filters doesn't work try another Percocet setting. You may have off, on, reserve. Or you might have a 'prime'
If you have a prime setting try switching to that. It doesn't use the vacuum to allow fuel to flow. Try driving on that setting. ...
4
Most probably the sound is from a loose TAPPET in the cylinder block, usually it goes away after a few thousand kilometres but if it still persists then you need to open up the header and tighten the tappets with the help of the mechanic.
Its not advisable to DIY.
And No this is not a very serious issue. My personal bike had the same issue from day 1 and ...
3
Tick Tick Sound you here during Idling is from Auto De-compressor. This Auto Decomp starts functioning below 350RPM. If RPM is raised this sound should vanish (This is applicable for new UCE engines).
In these Engines you also here some time Tick Tick sound after running the bike for few kilometers / engine warms up. This is basically maybe coming from the ...
3
There are several places you can get a ticking sound.
Chassis
Engine RPM Cable - The cable can kink or begin to backout of the cover and a ticking noise associated with engine speed may be heard.
Speedometer/Speedometer Cable - Kinks, lack of lubrication or cable slowly backing out of the speedometer housing due to ongoing single cyclander vibration can ...
3
Your Valve Lash Requires Adjustment
Valve lash is the distance between your valve stem and, in your case, the rocker arm. You have a camshaft inside your engine case or 'bottom end'. The reciprocating actuation is transferred to the top end via a push rod which contacts the rocker arm which actuates your valves.
Increased valve lash over time is a ...
3
There appears to be some this "foam" on the large bolt head above the area in question. Is the battery located behind that "RE" cover? Is the foam coming from that area? Battery acid would do what you are seeing. Be careful wiping this away in case it is battery acid.
2
I have the same problem with my classic 350. It is due to starter sprag bearing wear out. Replace it and it will be solved
2
There was a minor dust particle which lies inside carburator, after cleaning it got resolved
2
In india, Since most of the mechanic are illiterate but has huge experience in the job, They dont know the technical name for a lot of problems in the motorcycles.
The 'Tik-Tik' noise is timing noise(Tappet noise) produced by the timing chain. Timing chains usually last about 30k - 50k kms and sometimes they last forever. If you experience timing chain ...
2
You can adjust your valve lash
You have nothing to worry about. Adjusting valve lash is a standard maintenance item and should be done upon any maintenance or tune up's of your vehicle.
As you can see in the image, getting to the adjustment is quite simple.
From there, follow your factory manual regarding reducing the amount of valve lash clearance.
...
1
The main culprits would be your Battery or alternator. Try checking you alternator and battery. Check if alternator is supplying the desired currrent to the battery to get charged. Also the check the battery voltage if it managing to dischage the desired amount of current while using the accessory.
Additionally give a look on to rectifier - it rearly fails....
1
I would suspect a broken wire ie the conductor has broken and separates when turning left, but the insulation is still intact so you cannot see it.
One way to test is try connecting a spare length of wire between the ignition switch and the coil (or other component - you have to trace it to find it) and see if it still happens.
1
I don't think the classic 350 has tubeless tyres right? The inner tube or the valve stem might be leaking. If I'm wrong, and it does have tubeless tyres, it could be a bad seal of the tyre to the rim.
1
Both Electra and Classic 350 has same electrical system i.e 12 V DC and both hosts a 12 v 8Ah battery however Electra has 12V, HS1- 35/35 W halogen lamp while Classic 350 has 12V, H4-60/55W halogen.As pointed out by @Ghost You can not upgrade to classic bulb due to change in wattage however you can opt for 35 W LED or HID lamps as they are brighter and more ...
1
If you do not use the correct wattage, your bulb will blow. RE is not known for good electrical. It's better to stay away from replacing the main bulb. I would suggest you to have aux lights. You'll have to plug an extra relay for that.
1
If the engine runs in RESERVE, but no ON, then it sounds like the petcock isn't allowing fuel to flow when set to the ON position.
Check the hoses going from the petcock to the airbox. There could be a vacuum line disconnected that's preventing fuel flow when set to ON with the engine running.
Check the fuel lines from the tank to the petcock. The normal ...
1
Depending upon the design of the fuel tap it could be blockage in the tap itself.
I would test this by disconnecting the fuel line from the carburettor to see if fuel flows. Have a container ready to catch the fuel.
You could also try blowing back through the fuel line. With the fuel cap removed that should not be difficult. Be careful not to swallow or ...
1
It sounds like a fuelling issue, where your petcock isn't allowing enough fuel to flow into the carburetor when in the on position. When the bowls are full the bike will run for a while, but eventually the level in the bowl will drop to the point that the engine stalls.
Fuel petcocks are usually operated by a vacuum. There is a rubber diaphragm inside, and ...
1
Tappet noise is a "feature" provided by RE on Classic 350. While it doesn't do any harm as such, you can get the tappet rods set changed (the ones on Himalayan seem to be better : these are lengthier and have a groove). Tappet noise doesn't get better with the mileage. It gets better only with tappet rod adjustments AFAIK.
1
Tappet noise is a "feature" provided in RE Classic 350. It doesn't do any harm as such, except for annoying the rider/owner of the bike.
To answer your question, Yes, it is possible to swap the tappet rods. RE recalled Himalayan few months ago to swap these tappet rods. Check with your service center to see if you can get the same tappet rods installed. ...
1
Using second service within 2 days will affect your insurance premium, seems defect left in Quality check.
It should be fixed without any charge or atleast not using free service(free service price is including in MRP & is paid to service center by company). Many recent owners(my many friends) reported issues with faulty light console, faulty filters &...
1
My best bet would be you have a broken sprag clutch. Have it checked and let us know. :)
1
This is a common Problem in Enfield as Ducati kIller said.
Valve Gap - you pushrods and behind an access plate at the base of the cylinder you can find an adjustment for the pushrod. It's a simple locknut on a shaft. Simple to adjust. No parts necessary. It's a component of standard maintenance. It will make a ticking sound comping from the head or the ...
1
I think you won't go far wrong by following Ducati Killers' advice.
I started motorcycling in the mid fifties when every new or rebuild had to be "run in".
The best advice I can offer is don't red line it untill you have at least 1,500 miles.
Change the oil and filter every 500 miles for the first 1,500.
Don't let the engine "labour" keep it spinning, no ...
1
This thread on a motorbike forum suggests that an H4 bulb will fit in an HS1 holder, but that the bike in their question has a plastic lens that could melt - yours may be the same?
Does the alternator have enough power to run the higher-wattage bulb and recharge the battery?
I would always use a relay when upgrading or adding lamps, Halogens work much ...
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