Use 2wd unless conditions need 4wd.
Check the user manual as that will probably say the same.
Driving the extra drivetrain is wasteful on fuel, which is why many (often older) 4wd have autolock hubs either original spec or aftermarket.
Just to be clear, there are hub locks which can be auto or manual and are fitted at the wheel end of the front axle, which ...
i do 2WD inside the city roads + 4WD when i am out side the city, i do not do off roading
You'll get better performance and efficiency in 2WD mode, especially on faster roads outside the city.
You should leave it in 2WD unless there is ice or snow on the road.
If you live in a country where roads outside the city are mostly slow bumpy gravel or loose-dirt ...
Don't use "Lock (4WD)" mode unless on soft terrain.
You will get increased wear of tyres and transmission, worse directional stability and higher fuel consumption for nothing in return.
There is an automatic function that disables "lock" at high speeds, but it is only a safety measure and not a replacement for a reasonable driver choice.
I will offer a counter-point to all of the current answers which indicate using 2WD "except when you need 4WD".
In general, I will agree that 4WD isn't necessary and the 2WD (front wheels driven) mode is sufficient, as is attested by the fact that the majority of vehicles built today are front-wheel drive.
However, "when you need" 4WD ...
Changing to a completely different engine is quite difficult, and not recommended for beginners - there are a lot of factors to be considered, particularly with regards to compatibility of parts - e.g. which gearbox would you use, which clutch, driveshafts etc, and will the whole assembly fit, how will you make the new mounts, and so on.
Unless you have a ...
It could also be the Crank Position Sensor. It is mounted on the flywheel cover and if it gets contaminated with dust from the clutch it can stop the engine from starting. It confuses the average guy as it looks like either a fuel or ignition problem. It is held in position with two bolts. Might be awkward to get to.
Hope this helps.
While your question is pretty thorough, I'm assuming a few things in this answer that you didn't clarify;
When you crank the engine, and it doesn't start, I'm assuming it's a smooth crank without hiccups. By that I mean it isn't trying to start, it just cranks.
You have the petrol model, not a diesel.
It uses an electronic push-button start mechanism.
The Renault/Dacia Duster uses the same 4x4 system as Nissan
The Duster is offered with two-wheel drive or four-wheel-drive. The 4x4 variants make use of Nissan's all-wheel drive system, which allows the driver to choose from three different driving modes: Auto, in which the rear-wheel drive is engaged automatically in case the front wheels lose grip, ...
It's me, your future self.
So it turns out that you're an idiot and all you had to do was fiddle with the choke. That little lever on the carb? That's the choke. I forget which way is open and which way is closed, but if you do the following:
Push the ignition switch.
If it doesn't start, move the choke lever to the other (closed) position.
Push the ...
It wouldn't be a "security" concern, but it IS a safety concern. You are talking about your safety and the safety of those around you. If your vehicle does not stop as it should, your reaction time is increased, so you will not be stopping as soon as you would think you should, which could cause unanticipated results.
My suggestion is that you update the ...
I have the same car and I really hate having to check the oil level. The dipstick is on the front/underside of the engine close to the oil filter. It bright yellow, but since it's so well hidden it's easily missed.
Here's a photo for clarification:
I have replaced he old ECU ( SIRIUS 32N ) with another one ( SIRIUS 32 ) which is used before, the car has not started the first two tries but have started normally the third time, the immobilizer light have not been blinking which means there is no immobilizer problem and this means either the ECU is already decoded ( it is supposed to not be decoded ...
I found manual here.
The fuse box information is on pages 5.18 and 5.19, if you download the PDF:
So it looks like it depends on whether your Scenic is a UK? model (steering wheel on the right) or a rest-of-Europe? model (steering wheel on the left).
For right-side steering wheel, the fuse box is in the left-hand side of the glove compartment.
There appear to be three problems here:
Loss of coolant, and
Overheating, and also
That's a lot of problems to have show up all at once, so it would be good if we could find a common element that would explain all of them.
Coolant loss means that there must be a leak someplace. If you refill the cooling system and it stays full then you might ...
It's an Inertial Cut Out switch, it gets manually switched off in a impact, the switch cuts the fuel pump and engine. Hence the name, it uses inertia the same as a seatbelt to work.
It used to be very common on most if not all (at least in the uk) petrol cars and some diesels when the electric fuel pump wasn't controlled by the ECU. The idea is to cut the ...
Gallons of fuel consumed since last reset.
Checking a picture of that display online where unlit LCD characters could be seen, I was able to assemble the following line of letters:
Now checking the Owners's Manual (as provided by @hello moto 's comment), on pages 1.66 onward, the modes of operation listed have the following units:
I think that the computer's fuel consumption statistics don't actually come from the tank float. The consumption estimate comes from the injector duty cycle and fuel pressure.
The computer probably has a map or graph between duty cycle and fuel pressure which tells how much fuel the injector will spray at any given cycle and pressure. Using this it ...
from what you've said it sounds like an issue with the rear tyres, mismatching different makes of tyre's can throw the handling out as they all have different tread patterns (even more noticable in the rain because they aqua plane differently)
couple of other things to check would be -
Check all the wheels have been balanced properly
check all the tyres ...
Depending on how well you know the feeling, the symptoms sound like they could just be a brief slip into oversteer:
As the back end loses traction (which could be the case based on your description of the tyres) the car will feel like it is suddenly turning too much into the corner.
Normally, however, once you lose the back end, it doesn't come back by ...
Since it is occurring on both sides with the same result, your problem lies with the switch on the column. There is an outside chance that the wiring harness connection which attaches to the switch might need reseated, so you could attempt that as well.
This is a two part answer. The second is depending on whether there is an issue with the first part.
First, it could be the drainage channels are blocked which should be toward the front of the vehicle. If you have an electric sunroof, you should be able to run it towards the rear the vehicle and see them in the front at the corners. If you poor some water ...
Some possible causes for your problem:
Damaged wiring from starter relay to starter
Damaged wiring from battery to starter
Damaged wiring from ignition lock to starter relay
Broken starter relay
3 and 4 could be possible because the relay click you are hearing could come from a different relay. There is a relay in some cars to turn off other power loads ...
As long as you have replaced the radiator cap, then there should not be excessive pressure in the cooling system. The system is designed to hold 16PSI. If it does exceed this pressure, it will release pressure into the overflow tank.
When the engine is cold, the thermostat is closed, not allowing coolant to flow through the upper radiator hose. Once the ...
The hazards still work OK
This rules out that the indicator bulbs are not working.
When I indicate right my headlights come on ... when I turn the left indicator off the headlights go off
Based on the image below, the headlight control is on the indicator stalk.
One possible explanation is that the the switches are not functioning as they should, ...
The first thing I would try to do is use a very good window cleaner, or even vinegar. Just get it as clean as possible.
Assuming you already tried something like this, the next thing I'd do is use a clay bar to see if it will pull the contaminants off the windshield. Use it just like you would if you were cleaning your paint job.
If the clay bar doesn't ...
Checking several sights it should be on the front side of the engine. Near the middle of the block and under the fuel rail cover. Even in day light you may need a flashlight to locate it. It is by all accounts a royal pain to get at. Several queries were in regard to broken dip sticks. What this may mean is you can't find it because it has been broken off.
The hazard lights in every car I've ever drive work whether the engine is turned on or not. The turn signals (indicators) work when the engine is turned on. It sounds like something is interrupting the power going into the turn signal switch when the engine is running.
One possibility is that the alternator isn't working and so the engine is lowering the ...
Looks like that's a piece of your brake rotor's dust shield.
As techturtle said, its lack doesn't pose an immediate danger, but since it keeps debris out of the brakes, you should get it replaced at your earliest convenience to avoid undue wear.
I don't have any specific knowledge of your car, but if replacing it does not involve moving the caliper, it ...
The idle air control valve is integrated into the throttle body unit as shown here:
It may not look exactly like that, there was an update some time around then but the parts are very similar and the principles are the same.
There is a forum thread with a few more pictures of the cleaning process here: