Yes you can often repair turn signal flashers!
A variety of things can be wrong: here's one of them. Solder joints on the relay printed circuit boards are especially vulnerable to stress cracks, due to the clicking motion day in and day out.
Take the case off the relay and use a jeweler's loupe to inspect for hairline cracks, especially cracks those that ...
The reason for this is LEDs don't draw as much power as regular incandescent lights do. By putting the LEDs into the vehicle, you are making the vehicle believe the lights are out because of the lower draw. The indicators blink faster to indicate to you, the driver, there is a bulb out which needs to be changed.
One way to fix this is to put a resistor in ...
Your question raises more issues than you probably thought.
With respect to the issue of a relay, then assuming your bike has a 12 volt, negative ground, electrical system, all you need is a generic automotive relay, which looks like this (sometimes called a Bosch relay, regardless of whether it is actually a Bosch unit). Here is an article, which looks ...
This type of addon relay is intended to be mounted to any convenient existing bolt that you have available. As there is no standard for what size bolts to be used in an engine bay or around the body, there is no standard size recommendation for mounting this relay.
What you will do is find an existing bracket or mount in the engine bay, then back the bolt ...
I can think of several reasons straight away:
Easy to replace
Have a very distinctive click that makes it obvious when they are on, and when a bulb has failed
Are very well understood
Anyone can fit one without needing to understand much about electronics
Legend to Codes
E/G - Main is the relay for the Radiator fans.
EFI - Is the electronic fuel injection relay.
DIM - is the headlight dimmer relay.
H-LP - is the headlamp relay.
MG/C - is the air conditioning compressor magnetic clutch relay.
ST - is the starter relay.
Not sure what it "should" be pulling, but anywhere near a whole amp is way too much and will drain the battery in no time. Are you sure you tested right? Often the pull when you first connect the battery can be a lot higher than the steady pull since you might be charging some capacitors, etc. If it stays that high you definitely have a problem, possibly a ...
You can easily test a relay in a few simple steps. The required materials are as follows
Digital Multimeter (with continuity setting)
12V power supply
(Optional) Aligator clips for hands-free testing
DO NOT USE YOUR BATTERY DIRECTLY FOR THE 12V SUPPLY, if you have nothing on hand and want to be safe please use a fused line from a harness or through the ...
The power of your compressor is given by P = V x I = 12 x 30 = 360 W. This sounds about right.
It sounds as though your compressor is badly made and that the pressure switch is not adequate for the job.
You could try to modify like this.
Figure 1. Relay control of compressor motor.
Rewire the unit as shown.
Use a 12 V relay rated for > 40 A. Your local ...
0.10 amps will kill your battery quick like, you should get it down as close to 0.00 amps as possible. My experience was that to keep the radio stations, etc. it takes about 0.01 amp on the meter. So yeah, you got something going on... In my case, it was the key lock light staying on and the door lights (or rather door light relays) staying on.
Just FYI, I had a 1999 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP (same basic engine and transmission I think, GM 3800 Series II engine) that the fuel pump relay went bad on. When you turned the key, you could here the pump power on and pressurize. The car would start and idle, but as soon as you put it in drive or pressed the gas, the engine would die.
I've been told that ...
Very possible. Letting a fuel pump run dry can quickly burn out the motor in the pump. The presence of fluid keeps the impeller from rotating as quickly and the gasoline also cools the pump as it operates. Without gas flowing through it can quickly overheat.
That being said however you may just have air in the lines. I am not sure whether your vehicle has a ...
Relay is here:
That's in the driver's footwell. I believe it's above the fuse box, around the hood open latch. There's a plastic cover over the relays you'll have to pull off. There's one for the relays and one for the fuse box.
It should just pull out and the new one can be popped right in. You'll have to pull hard.
Your single bulb has two filaments, one for the low beam and one for the high beam. If you look at the back of the headlight bulb, there's three prongs. One is for the low beam, one is for the hi beam, and the last is the shared ground. The low beam and hi beam need to be turned on and off independently, so you need two relays.
(image source http://www....
Here is more info than you would like http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/strtctr.pdf
The short of it is that it takes 8-10 amps to hold the solenoid in place while starting but the draw can spike to 30 amps while it is engaging.
This is assuming that the ignition switch is carrying the current for the solenoid, new cars with push button starts and some ...
54 watts at 12v equates to 4.5A. That's not a lot. Any 20A automotive relay will the job. You can get both the relay and socket for the relay at almost any parts store. Here's what a 4-post looks like:
It is very likely that the two relays will be the same configuration, since their positions can be interchanged. But, there could be differences. One thing you can do to check is to read the part numbers on the relays. If they are the same, then the relays are the same and there is no problem with switching them.
The trick to reading the numbers is that ...
You need to know up front what the Amperage of the lights are in the first place and work from there. In the case of the light in the link is has a 72W draw on it. @ 12vdc, this calculates to 6Amps for each light bar you're looking at adding.
To understand how much you can run on a single relay, you add the Amps together to see the total. You don't want to ...
Use an electronic flasher. I have no idea if Tung Sol is still in business, but they made a very nice electronic flasher that simply replaced the old bi-metal unit. True plug-and-play operation: remove the old flasher, plug in the new.
Note that even though this was classified as an electronic flasher, the only electronics inside was a really cool relay ...
It sounds as though it is one or two things going on here. First of all, did you check the serpentine belt which drives the alternator? Is it still on there and looking ready to do its thing?
If that is still there, it could very well be the alternator itself. I've had alternators which have completely froze up. From your description, this could very well ...
Thank you guys for your advices. Yesterday i bought 2 regulators for the 2 doors. Now it works perfectly. 2 days ago the driver's door stuck in central locking and the window motors circuit doesnt pass power to the door lock. I had to open the locked door from the inside then at the moment that i changed the motor, the door opened from the door switch of the ...
My suggestion would be to chase the wiring directly rather than trying to identify all the parts of a system your mechanic did not even identify for you.
If possible, find an electrical diagram for the car online. A Google search for 2001 volvo v70 wiring diagram turned up many images of wiring diagrams that should be very helpful.
To trace this back, ...
You can't do that either way you tried. You need power +86 from the reverse wire, and a suitable ground path +85 for the other side of the coil. You'll have to add wire and find bare metal or another ground wire somewhere.
The coil provides a resistance, such that very little current flows through it. This is why the reverse lights didn't come on in the ...
Neither of those diagrams would work the way you want them to.
In diagram one power never reaches the lights as up to pin 86 is grounded.
In diagram two power reaches the lights, but pin 86 is never grounded so the coil never closes.
85 and 86 are dependent on how the reverse light circuit works. If the circuit is normally grounded this diagram ...
If they work inconsistently, it may indicate bad electrical contact.
In older cars the technique used for the on/of nature of flashers, is based on heat caused by current. If there's not enough current, due to too much resistance in the wiring, or in the switch, the flashers may continuously light, or not at all. Resisitance in the switch at your dash, or ...
The problem lies in your connections to the battery or ground. I'm not sure how you tested them, but from your description, this is a classic case of losing connectivity from either the ground strap or the positive lead. I've seen it happen many times in the past.
Your best bet is to disconnect each main connection, clean the connection (both at the wire ...