If the intent is strictly to rebuild, here is a list of items which should always be replaced:
Oil control rings
Cam bearings (not always needed, but good choice if equipped)
Freeze plugs in block
Head bolts (if torque to yield type)
Absolutely needs done
Clean all ...
With only 200 miles on the engine, I'm thinking you could get away with using the same rings on the engine as long as you didn't see any scoring on the cylinder walls or any other obvious damage.
With that said, a stock set of piston rings is dirt cheap for a 350 or a SBC in general ... as long as you are talking about the Gen I SBC and not a Gen III SBC (...
This, in and of itself, is nothing to be worried about. The reason I say this is, it is not part of the sealing surface for a cylinder. There is more than enough meat there to seal the cooling port, as long as there isn't a crack from there radiating out.
You will most likely want to have the head resurfaced, even if it is only to clean up the mating ...
This video confirmed what I was thinking.
You need three things:
Flat tip screwdriver
Channel locks pliers (or ViceGrips)
Take your screwdriver and hammer. Place the screwdriver flat along the bottom of the freeze plug. Hit the screwdriver with the hammer until the freeze plug "eye lids" (as the guy called it ... this is where the freeze plug ...
It sounds as though you already have the heads off. If this is right, check the bores for anything unusual. I'm assuming this is the case if you are looking for the HP you say ... Not going to get that stock with a truck block. That means at least a cam, but probably a set of heads as well.
If it truly only has as many miles as you say, you should still see ...
I would replace the piston rings and inspect the pistons for any signs of damage. You are already investing money in repairing the engine. It does not make sense to skip such an important part. Make sure that the cylinder surface is prepared properly. A good machine shop should be able to do the work for not a lot of money.
Note: If you comment about the "...
I've nothing to cite for this, but I'd say the following:
When should you bore a block during a rebuild?
Only if necessary - if the bores are damaged, scored or heavily pitted.
How do you determine if the block should be bored?
Check the bores - if one or more are damaged, scored or heavily pitted, then it will need boring. light scratches and surface ...
Sometimes really corroded ones will not remove like that or there is a lip behind the core plug that doesn't allow that to happen.
Sometimes you can drill a hole in it and screw in a bolt with a self tapping thread, eventually the bolt will come up against the inside of the block and the plug will pull out.
Or you can drill a hole in it and insert a self ...
In general, a transmission should last for the lifetime of the car, assuming regular maintenance (regular oil/filter change according the specification).
On manual transmissions the clutch (and dual mass flywheel, if equipped) is a wear item.
Those repairs are one of the "big jobs", where the owner needs to decide if the effort is worth it.
The average ...
Piston ring breaking standard procedure involves how the engine is used for the first 500 miles.
No extended idle time
Easy low power driving with lots of changes of rpm
No high power accelleration or high load.
No steady speed driving as in long trips with steady cruise speed
Some oil burn is not uncommon in the first few thousand miles.
An oil change at ...
I'd generally go for the following, adjusted as appropriate for your car (as some things may be easier to get to in a different order)
If the paintwork is in good condition, cover and protect the wings/fenders and front panel. Ideally remove the bonnet/hood
Fluids - oil and coolant
Other electrical connections - to the starter, alternator, coil/...
all parts should be washed and checked for cracking or fatigue
The list of items you don't need to replace is much shorter:
the block but you may need to get the deck resurfaced and you will need to bore and hone your cylinders to get them round
the heads but they may need resurfacing
oil pan and plug
oil pump pickup tube
oil fill cap
The pressure generated at Top Dead Center on the Power stroke is very high. A "taller" gasket will have a larger cross-sectional area exposed to this pressure, so high "pounds/sq inch" grows proportionately as the area increases.
Even the best Multi Layer Steel head gaskets are not designed to be part of the cylinder, just to seal the head to the block. ...
The part you don't show on this exhaust valve which is much more important is how the lapping ring looks on the valve. If the ring which shows the lapping looks even all the way around on both the valve and on the seat, there really shouldn't be much to worry about. The seal is what's truly important here. If this area looks like it varies around the ...
This valve can absolutely be salvaged. You just need a valve job. You can have a look at what's entailed in a valve job by watching this Jafromobile video.
To the uninitiated, I won't go through all of the steps involved, but I'll go over some of the pertinent points so you'll understand why this will work for you.
During a valve job, there's two basic ...
Not only should it be cleaned off, you want to ensure you don't get/leave any on the valve stems. You'll wear out the valve guide in short order if you don't. Remember in engine building, cleanliness is next to godliness. You want to ensure everything remains as clean as possible and this means removing all of the lapping compound. Clean it all and don't ...
It will almost definitely be cheaper to buy a reconditioned engine and drop that in than trying to sort out a seized engine. This is because you're going to have to pay for a lot of machining work in addition to replacing all the damaged parts. Even if you're saving some money on the labour aspect by doing the tear down and reassembly yourself.
I had a similar worry when I replaced the pintle caps on a set of my own injectors. In my case I actually hadn't installed them far enough on to the injectors themselves and they were causing a weird idle issue. Anyways, long story short the mechanic that ended up figuring this out told me that when you go to replace the pieces it can be very very hard to do ...
Yes it must absolutely cleaned off. The compound is an abrasive paste, as such on initial start up it will be ingested into the engine. The outcome would be the same as leaving some fine sand on the top off the piston while assembling the motor.
welcome on this site.
Good luck with rebuilding the transmission, this is one of the bigger challenges in car maintenance.
You need to store the transmission with ATF inside in a clean dark place with constant temperature. Do not overfill the transmission. Ideally the gearbox is wraped with oil soaked paper/rags
I'll stick my neck out and fly against convention. There's a great article here:
I've verified this method with a number of motorcycle and race engine tuners who all agree and it pretty much sums up what they do.
Tldr; warm up the engine gently, then give it a very thorough workout!
The main point is that ...
This is a non-issue. HC (hydrocarbons) and CO (carbon monoxide) in the exahust combine with oxygen to become Carbon Dioxide (CO2) and Water (H2O). When the exhaust is cold the water can condense enough to show as water vapor or even as dripping water from the tailpipe. The water is always in the exhaust, but when the engine and exhaust system is hot enough ...
This is essentially looking for binding. It has nothing to do with how long it will spin on its own inertia.
As you progress thru the assembly, it should turn with little effort to ensure there is no binding. Some instructions will even give you torque specs for each piston added.
If it does not turn easily, then something may be installed ...
for a little background, I am a Kia master tech. Hyundai and Kia are brother sister companies who share mostly the same drive-train components. both companies have had issues with the 2.0 or 2.4 litter engine installed in your vehicle. I would suggest bringing the car to the dealer (if you have not done so already) as it may still be warrant-able even with ...
Yes and no, Auto boxes may need more frequent oil changes, but, properly looked after they can do 100K or 200K just as easily as a manual box.
For a manual box the issue tends to be the clutch - as some drivers are "more sympathetic" to the clutch and treat it better, but some need a new clutch every 30K (like those customers : clutch change can be easy ...
No, you shouldn't rebuild the engine unless you have a specific reason. 120k miles isn't that much for a modern engine, so there's no reason to spend the effort, time and money to strip it down. Clean the engine so you find and fix any leaks, do a compression check and do any service items that are due or will become due on the trip like timing chains, ...
If you are going to remove the pistons anyway, in order to fix the crank issue? Sure why not, because you are going to have to put rings in it when you reassemble. But, if they were replaced when it was rebuilt 200 miles ago, and they were installed correctly? There's really no point.
Are you sure the previous owner installed/honed the cylinders properly?
When should you bore a block during a rebuild? When the bore has severe scratches, when the bore is out of round, or when the bore has excessive bore diameter out of tolerances between the top and bottom of bore, or when you want to increase the displacement.
How do you determine if the block should be bored? see above.
How do you determine if the block can ...
You can compensate for decking loss with a thicker gasket, and there are many on the market for Honda engines (esp the b Series). I can't say how well they hold up tho, but I know people who have successfully used them in Frankenstein builds (b18b bottom with bseries vtec head) with a fair amount of boost, and they seem to do fine, and they are also ...