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21

Realistically, if the manual and the manufacturer are stating you should use 87 octane, that's really what you should use. If you purchase more expensive 89, 91, or 93, you are just wasting money. The higher the octane rating, the harder it is for fuel to burn (or ignite). If the vehicle was specified to use 93, then that's what you should buy or you risk ...


17

Instead of Ohms checks of fuses I check for voltage with power on. Set your voltmeter to DC volts with the negative lead on the battery negative connector. With the positive lead test both sides of the fuse. If good it will read battery voltage on both sides. Most fuses have exposed metal tabs on both sides of the actual fuse section for this purpose. On ...


9

The fuse connection legs are through bolted on many of these higher amp rated fuses. To find out remove the black plastic cover below the fuses. If you find small nuts then they are the bolted in type. BTW if the fuse links under the clear plastic windows look OK then they do not need to be replaced.


9

There's 3 things you need to look at: the accelerator pedal itself the throttle cable the throttle body If you pop the hood, find your throttle body: it is between the air intake tube and the metal top part of the engine and has a half-wheel sticking out the front with 1 (no cruise control) or 2 (cruise control) cables attached to it. When you turn it by ...


7

This is a well-worded, interesting, and valuable question. Unfortunately, not among the "gung ho risk taking" mechanics, I would not even guess at an answer without seeing the problem firsthand. So my meta answer would be to duplicate the problem in a static situation (not moving/driving) -- perhaps by wiggling and pulling on the pedal into a position ...


7

You should have 2 coil packs on the back side of the engine near the throttle body. Wires run to individual cylinders. I don't know how easy it would be to find locally but you can use an inductance spark tester. http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-19380-Spark-Tester/dp/B0002STS3U Another way to see if the coil pack is firing would be to pull a wire out and use ...


7

If you can get to both sides of the fuse, see if you have power on each side. If you want to make sure, remove the battery terminal, and use an ohmmeter to measure the resistance between the battery terminal and the other side of the fuse. Should be zero or close to it. If so, it is good. With this type of fuse, when it blows, there is usually a large gap ...


7

That year of RAV 4 uses the alternator to tighten the belt. It may not be adjusted properly and the belt is slipping. . .


6

This is rather specific to the hazards of car ownership in West Africa, so I'm not surprised no-one has suggested this! After using an improvised variant of this method to confirm that it was indeed an electrical problem with no power reaching the spark plug wires, I had a closer look at my fuse box, and specifically the "EFI" (fuel injection sytem) fuse. ...


6

More than likely the problem is either your serpentine belt is worn out, or the tensioner pulley isn't providing enough tension to keep the belt in place. Belt slippage accounts for the low amount of voltage output. Because it's the easier of the two, I'd suggest replacing the belt first. I'm not sure on your RAV4 whether there is an indicator on your ...


5

This solution applied to my '82 Oldsmobile back in the day. I suspect you might have a similar situation. The windshield on that car was actually glued onto the front of the frame with a black urethane glue, it also rests on a couple of metal tabs that keep the windshield from sliding down. When they replaced my windshield the put too much glue on the ...


5

If you go to Toyota's website, http://www.toyota.com/configurator/#!/build/step/model/year/2016/series/rav4. There is an option to compare all available trim levels. If you're not interested in the larger 18" wheels and certain sport features than the comparison should be between the Limited and XLE editions. The Limited edition comes with more standard ...


4

Two things. First, you can almost guarantee with the blinker going fast one of the bulbs are out. This might include any of the small bulbs which are side markers as well as the main lights which are front/rear. Look around the "good" side of the vehicle with the blinkers on to figure out where the small bulb might be, then look to see if it is flashing on ...


4

Try starting the vehicle in neutral. It might an issue with the electrical connection in the Neutral Start Switch located in transmission console where the gear shift is. If memory serves me correctly there is a device called a parking pawl-sort of a safety locking mechanism. Sometimes this affect the start switch which affects the ability to start Park. ...


4

That would be the A/C refrigerant high pressure liquid line.


4

The acid test is if you try a lower octane fuel, if you hear any "knocking" sounds under hard acceleration (perhaps up a hill), then you definitely need a higher octane rating. As Paulster2 mentions, there will not be any performance improvement, in spite of what a lot of people say. The octane rating is just a measure of resistance to knocking. I have a ...


4

Sounds like nominal behavior of power steering fluid at -20c. Unless there is no fluid involved with whatever that thing does to make the wheels turn, then it sounds like nominal behavior of an electrical system at -20c.


3

The fluid is water. It is condensate from the air conditioner evaporator. It is normal. The black hose is the evaporator drain hose.


3

Apparently, the Rav4 has an undersized battery to begin with and is sensitive to under-voltage problems when starting. The rav's prior to 2009 have an undersized battery -35. Check the battery and if weak get a 24F for replacement. As one user mentioned: I just ran my tests on our RAV. Interesting! It has a Toyota battery. The size wasn't readily ...


3

Yes Depends on how long it is on there, when the glue dries out it can be hard to remove without damaging the paint (if you need to do remove them for some reason), also the paint will not match anymore as the rest of the car will fade slightly, the paint under the molding will not. See 2


3

I'd be tempted to add a second socket, rather than trying to adapt the original one - you can buy a socket from most car accessory shops, add a suitable in-line fuse if it doesn't come with one, then it's just a case of finding a suitable live feed to tap into (in fact, given the purpose you want to use it for, I'd suggest that you run a dedicated feed back ...


3

In terms of possible root causes for failure, the following scenarios are likely culprits for a cooling system to run too cool: A temperature sensor that's reporting lower-than-actual temperatures due to issues like drift/fouling/calibration. A sticking thermostat that is flowing more coolant than necessary to maintain 176 °F. Really cold ambient air ...


3

I'm going to preface my answer by stating: Pay for the steering and chalk it up to experience. I'm not a lawyer, but can tell you this is a "no win scenario". Can the rod going into the power steering drive cause a tooth to break/bend without the rod showing any damage when the wheel is hit dead-on and bent in at the top? In my humble opinion, yes ...


3

I've never heard of that problem happening and I think there is now way you could "really crank" on the lug nuts more than the force of the vehicle rolling backwards on a slope when you park it. The parking pawl is quite substantial since the parking safety of the vehicle depends on it.


2

Yes to both. The top picture is just a ground to the body from wherever it starts at. You'll find many of them around the car and under the bonnet (hood). Trying to find where it started will be a chore, but shouldn't be too difficult. It's probably on the engine very near by. Use the length of it to search around. You'll know it should connect to something ...


2

What you have described are classical symptoms of what happens when a bad batch of fuel finds its way inside an engine - sputtering/coughing/misfiring during low-load operation. If the issue recurs with fuel that is known to be good, another possibility is that the fuel supply system is unable to deliver the required amount of fuel, causing the engine to ...


2

That sounds like a speaker type sound.. Is there an old alarm siren fitted somewhere that could be causing this? If so try unplugging it.


2

87 will work, 89 is optimal, 93 will also work but uses a bit more (will start to run leaner but the computer easily compensates but using more fuel) 87 better for winter (no difference over 89), 89 better for summer (helps when underhood is HOT when you have the A/C running AND trying to keep the engine around operating temp. I would maybe avoid the ...


2

After looking at the second video, your steering rack is worn out, you need to replace it.


2

You can usually find this type of information if you look at aftermarket part sites. http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8435972&cc=3294225&jsn=411 Compressed length is 14.93 Extended length is 19.93 I will assume those measurements are inches. Those are the overall lengths and that makes the travel distance 5 inches.


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