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6

Sounds like it's possibly involved with the transmission and/or clutch. But first, I would check all the heat shielding on the car to make sure that's not a factor. When the transmission is engaged (when the clutch is not depressed) it can cause some NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) that will cause nearby heat shields to rattle and make it sound like a ...


5

Rattling has to do with loose parts. The bass frequencies are causing the parts to vibrate against each other. You will need to isolate the rattle, and tighten the part making the noise. Many times it just needs a little adjustment. If the part is unable to be tightened any farther, you may need to add some type of buffer material, like thin foam padding. ...


4

My brother said that it ended up being the timing belt; he assumes it was broken teeth. He didn't really care why because he only needed it fixed enough to pass a "cash for clunkers" program.


4

To answer your questions: Yes, this does appear to be a heat shield In general, auto manufacturers don't include anything in the car that they don't need to: this eats into their profits. That being said, it'd be a guessing game as to whether this heat shield was added in order to improve the customer's driving experience (i.e. by reducing the amount of ...


3

It's almost impossible to say without knowing what is rattling, so you have to find out first. You could give it a few good shakes by hand when the car is stopped, if you can make the noise happen you should be able to narrow it down. Then at that point it just becomes a matter of either a proper fix (tightening bolts, resetting springs, replacing worn ...


2

Turned out it was the driveshaft.


2

Rule of thumb: If the manufacturer put it in, it's needed. Not only can the catalytic converter's heat warm up the interior of the car, it can cause a fire if you park on dry grass or leaves. As to whether the mechanic removed it - it's not really for us to say - you'd have to know if it was there before you brought it in. But I'd be suspicious.


2

I know that these cars have issues with the timing chain tensioner and in some countries there was a BMW recall on the N47 engines specifically for this. A recall is where a manufacturer admits there was a problem and rectifies it free of charge. The very first thing I'd do is establish if the cam timing is still in sync with the bottom end. There are a ...


2

I checked the clip and this sounds like dashboard rattle, tap and hold around the dashboard and you will find it. Once had similar rattle turned out it was from seat belt locking mechanism on the passenger seat. Definitely not a transmission rattle.


1

Silicone spray in an aerosol can is a useful tool for stopping squeaks and rattles where plastics are moving against each other. It is also good for lubricating rubber window guide channels and door seals. Try spraying a very small amount at the joints of the components that are making a noise.


1

What happened is that something on your car broke or you picked up a piece of road debris which has gotten caught somewhere. Beyond that it's impossible to say, you have localized the sound, the only way you're going to get to the bottom of it is to look. Be careful and do it right, don't go under the car without it being supported securely. You can also use ...


1

I found the issue, after a lot of searching through the fiatforum.com and by chance came across a suggestion it could be the intake pipe leading to the airbox, which is mounted to the chassis via a metal bracket with a rubber bushing. The bushing was worn so the plastic intake was rattling around a bit. This made a hollow rattling noise, which I mistook for ...


1

Usually when you hear a rattling noise during acceleration only, the cause is because of pre-detonation, knock, or ping (whatever you'd like to call it). This can be caused by carbon buildup in the combustion chamber, running too low of octane for your vehicle, or that that vehicle needs a serious tune up. If the injectors aren't working as well as can be ...


1

In my case (though a different brand) the issue was with bad transmission mounts. The car would also rattle when steering to the left. After replacing said mounts, the noise was gone. Could also be some other kind of mounts, generally the engine gets more stressed under acceleration which would result in more shaking.


1

Rang the mechanic and asked if he removed the heat shield, and he said he did and that the heat shield is not needed, and that this new cat has an integrated heat shield. Yes the new cat does have welded heat shield on, BUT it is pointed down instead of up at the car body. And the welded-on heat shield is pointless IMO. Looks like I will have to be without ...


1

Heat shields have two purposes. If it is between the floor and the exhaust system it is designed to prevent the heat from warming the floor and possibly melting the carpet. GM had issues in the late 70s with floor pans rusting from the heat of the catalytic converter. If the heat shield is on the bottom of the exhaust it is to prevent the hot exhaust from ...


1

It turns out the 06 WRX has its headlight self-leveller sensor at the left rear. Here's a picture of a Subaru Forester sensor and caliper (from the uksubaruownersclub.com site) - very similar setup. As the suspension moves, the caliper is pushed up or down, and the sensor reads the setting - which is translated to movement at the headlights so when you have ...


1

It was indeed a heatshield on the cat.


1

This is apparently a normal sound. The vacuum pump, according to Toyota, can run at any time. It is required for emission control. And, depending on various conditions, can be much louder or quieter. My understanding is that this pump is a part of secondary air injection. The injected air location varies with the engine temperature, according to the link ...


1

To check the heat shield, you'll have to raise the car up so that you can get underneath it and locate the exhaust system. Here is a picture of a corroded heat shield. You should be able to move the heat shield with your hand if it's loose (do this while the car is cool, mind you). If you want an easy fix, I usually just self-tap a short screw into the ...


1

The noise goes away if I add a little gas or depress the clutch This is a classic symptom of a bad throwout bearing.


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