17
Both that disc and pad look perfectly normal to me, although I can't see from the photo how much material is left on the pad - but with only 25k on the clock I would expect them to have plenty of life left.
You will always get light corrosion on the discs when the vehicle has been sitting for a while (as little as overnight if the weather is damp, a few ...
10
Cigarette lighters have been standardized for many years now. Even power outlet plugs are pretty much the same in size and shape, though their power throughput may be lower than an actual cigarette lighter outlet. If you are having issues, first thing to do is try a different adapter. If that still fails, check the fuse. If it's beyond that, you'll need to ...
8
This is the heater valve. It's Motocraft part# YG350:
8
I'm going to disagree with my esteemed colleague about whether they need to be replaced. While there is no profile view to really tell the depth of what is left of the pad, it looks to me as though it's on its last legs. In the pad photo, if you look at the left side of the pad (by your fingers), it looks as though you can see metal wear, as though the pad's ...
7
You can find the spark plug gap specifications on a sticker that will be either on the radiator support or on the underside of the hood (there are other locations such as the strut towers, etc). This is the gap that should be used when using the OEM spark plugs and even when using an off-branded plug that is a valid replacement for the OEM brand. Here are a ...
5
If you have the 2.3L 4cyl, it should be here just behind the throttle body on the passenger side:
If the V6 (either 3.0 or 4.0), I think it should be right on top of the intake like it is on this V6 Escape:
If it isn't there on the V6, you should still be looking for the same shaped part. It should be on the outside of the intake near the front and is ...
5
This is your Heater Control Valve
But I am going to explain what it does.
First of all the "wire" you see is actually a vacuum line, it's a hollow (hopefully) air-tight tube that passes vacuum to the Heater Control Valve.
The heater control valve is a vacuum actuated valve that in the open position allows fluid to pass through and in the closed position ...
5
Try torching them again. The only bolts that I couldn't get off with a torch are the ones that snapped. If the bolt didn't turn an orange glow, you're not getting it hot enough.
Cutting them off, as has been pointed out in the other answers, won't let the bolt magically slide out because a bolt that won't budge is a bolt that seized (corrosion and rust ...
5
The purpose of the rubber cup is to allow for a seal on the master cylinder reservoir, and then to allow for fluid to escape down into the slave cylinder as needed. It allows the fluid to easily change levels while still allowing the reservoir to be sealed (yes, that statement is redundant). It works the same way for the brakes (both use the same hydraulic ...
4
You have two separate idle settings on your carburetor.
One is for the choke idle and the other is for your off-choke idle.
When you start your vehicle in the morning the idle setting will be fixed on the last termperature of your vehicle, so if you drove home the night before and the engine was at full operating temperature you would have that idle ...
4
If you can turn the engine over using the starter, the engine is not seized. Just because it died after such an event, doesn't mean it is going to do that. Definitely not good for the engine, but it doesn't mean it's seized.
It really depends on how the engine died to tell you what exactly happened. If it just quit without any loud bang or loss of engine ...
4
The mystery was finally solved after taking in my vehicle due to a check engine light before a smog test.
Both the mass airflow sensor and the throttle sensor needed to be replaced as they were giving faulty readings which caused high idling on top of the cold start problems. I did clean the mass airflow sensor, but apparently this wasn't good enough since ...
4
Please consider this answer as "food for thought" and not as a reliable expert advice.
The most difficult part is to differentiate if the oil contamination is from the residual coolant in the not-totally changed oil or if there is still a leak present. You also need to exclude a present overheating problem.
Check if there is an overheating problem and ...
4
It does sound like an alternator. If your battery is dying once you remove the "charge" from it, JumpPack or jumper cables, then yes it is most likely the alternator. If your instrument cluster lights are ALL coming on, that is another side effect of a dying/dead alternator.
My advice would be to go to AutoZone or Advanced Auto and have them test your ...
4
The time involved makes me suspect something heat related. I'd suggest opening up the hood and seeing if you can get access to the throttle body, it will probably look something like this:
The throttle cable is the part leading from the green plastic bit towards the upper right to the brownish quadrant near the middle of the image. Have somebody sit in the ...
4
If you mean by loose, that once correctly assembled and installed in the right position, and without activating them by means of pressing the brake pedal, you can move the calipers with your hands or by using a screwdriver as lever and you feel some level of play: it could be that the "ears" that are used to secure them against the knuckle, being by bolts or ...
4
The horrific squealing sound is your belt rubbing on on some pulley. Typically this means that either
The belt is bad.
The belt is loose.
Some pulley has seized.
If the belt is cracked or feels like its dried out then its probably time for a new belt. There's also a product called belt conditioner that you can spray on the belt. If this fixes the squealing ...
4
Those are heater hoses. They supply hot antifreeze to the heater core so that you have heat in the truck.
3
As @racefever states, this is really subjective and hard to answer. I will try to do my best though.
Most of this is going to be done by feel. Every vehicle, even those of the same make/model, will have a different RPM at which it will get the best gas mileage. What I can tell you about when to shift, though, is keep it in the highest gear without lugging ...
3
I figured it out. I had has taken the shifter out while it was in gear. I took a flat head and put the transmission into neutral. Problem shoved. Thanks everyone!
3
This is probably very bad news. It sounds like all your coolant has been sucked through the engine and blown out of the exhaust. Once all the coolant had gone, the engine will have over heated and siezed. The only thing I can think of that would have caused this is a blown cylinder head gasket. The engine may need a lot of work, or need replacing, unless ...
3
More than likely it's the throttle position sensor (TPS). What happens is they can get a dead spot in them. If you look at them, they are just a rheostat which varies the voltage as it comes through ... different positions means different voltages because of the amount of resistance which the electricity has to flow through. You get a spot in there where no ...
3
I see what appears to be a A/C evaporator coil assembly housing based on the large aluminum tube at the top and a smaller one at the bottom. I would say that is the drain hole for the condensation to drain out. No hose required.
3
You COULD drill the head enough or grind them just enough to get the rest out. Slip it off and see if you can get a pair of locking pliers on it after you get it off. If you don't regularly use tap and dyes, it's really easy to ruin your head. I would just try to pull it off and try to grab what's left of the bolt with the pliers, if not then you'll have to ...
3
I'm just answering to record what it actually ended up being.
The water pump started grinding against its housing, the timing belt cover. Once the water pump cut all the way through coolant poured directly into the oil pan.
All it needed was a new water pump and timing belt cover.
3
First of all, I'll warn everyone else just as I did in this answer, please do not remove the battery connections while the engine is running. If your alternator wasn't bad before, this is a good way to make it bad. This is a very old school method of checking a generator while the engine is running, but can fry things on your alternator. Very bad idea.
The ...
3
I'm assuming here that the pins, pads etc are the correct type and are fitted correctly. The caliper body can move slightly on its slide pins, this loose feeling is exaggerated as well after fitting new pads etc as the calipers piston/s have not yet pushed together again onto the rear of the pads. Once the brakes have been pumped up a few times you should ...
3
It depends on the car - age and manufacturer - a dual circuit brake system was implemented many years ago Range Rover springs to mind (apparently it won several awards for the brake system...). One way to recognise split systems is the number of brake pipes leaving the master cylinder : very old systems had one that led to a 5 way junction (Comma van for ...
3
The hardware is different depending on where it's at. The four bed bolts will most likely have washers/nuts on the other side, while the eight in the tailgate will have captured nuts of some kind backing them.
The thing you need to ask yourself is: Will I ever need to access these bolts? The answer is most likely yes, at least for the ones on the tailgate. ...
3
My immediate idea was that P0506 means there is a vacuum leak somewhere. I googled for P0506, and the first page I found also mentions vacuum leak as the first possible cause of failure: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0506 ...although to be fair, there are some other possible causes as well.
A 13-year old car that has been driven in high temperatures can ...
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