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If the open one is still on the track, it may stay up if you can get it get back up and pull the fuse the windows are on. If it's partially off the track (one of the rollers has popped out) or the mechanism and / or motor are really shot, you might have to pull off the door panel and rig something up to keep it in place until you can fix it or have it fixed....
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Your window motor and/or regulator is going out. What happens is, the window motors have a thermal trip which tells them to stop when they get too hot. As a vehicle gets older, the window regulator and slides don't slide/move as well, so creates a lot more friction. The window motor starts wearing out because of this and more heat is produced, thus shutting ...
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The cheapest, easiest thing you can try is to disconnect your battery for 30 minutes (check your owner's manual for the proper way of doing this). When you connect the battery again, your electric windows would have reset their soft limits (so called because the SOFTware learns what "fully open" and "fully closed" "feels" like). You'll notice that your ...
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In this case, as the reset procedure requires the motor to turn freely through between 6 and 10 revolutions - without being connected to the window mechanism etc. you prehaps don't need to remove it from the door, but you will need to ensure it is disconnected from the mechanism, and this could be easiest if it is removed entirely. You will also be able to ...
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I have had the same issue three times with two different vehicles. Check out www.shimjim.com for a temporary fix. It is a rubber wedge that inserts between the window and the inside window trim.
James
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If you have checked another working window, your best bet is to use a multimeter to see which wire carries what voltage for the up and down signals (this is not specific to your cart but relevant for any).
Then check first to see whether the voltage is present at the motor end of the wire. If so, the connection to the motor may be faulty.
If no voltage ...
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Most likely cause is a bad motor. Give the bottom of the door panel a good whack. Careful if it's cold as you can crack the door panel. This may be enough to jar the brushes in the motor to make it work long enough to get the window up.
Another way to tell if it's the window motor is with the dome light on, watch the light when you push the up or down ...
answered Feb 24 '15 at 17:14
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Not to be contrary to @JoshCaswell, but I'm seeing as how the left front/right rear are the same motor, as is the right front/left rear. Using the numbers he gave, I'm seeing the following as alternate parts numbers:
FL/RR: 61188FE001, 61188FE002, 61188FE021, 61188FE022, 61188SA011, 62113FC100, 62188SA000, 62188SA001, 62188SA002, 63113FC100
FR/LR: ...
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Assuming you have tested the window switch and wiring to ensure it is the motor, there really is only one way to replace it, but it is fairly simple.
You can find detailed directions with pictures here.
1) Remove the front door trim.
*Caution, Do not apply excessive force to the clips. Otherwise the clip may be broken.
Pull up the inner remote cover ...
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Pull down on the window with open hands or a big suction cup while someone operates the window switch, once it unsticks roll the window down all the way, then liberally spray the window channel rubbers with a high quality Silicone Spray. Let the spray dry then roll the window up and down several times.
Depending how dry the channel rubbers are how many ...
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There are reasons you'll find the price disparity between what you'll find online or at the parts store versus what a shop will charge you for the same part. (I'll give you an anecdote after I answer this.)
Most non-dealer shops buy there parts as cheap as they can get them. They may have a deal with a parts store to get a discount on parts if they buy ...
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Based on your wiring diagram, the relay is inside the switch, and based on that it's not serviceable.
Based on the picture you posted here
That black square box on the switch (tyco) is the relay.
Here is are the specs (PDF)
Here is a where you can buy it
Based on that I would say it's replaceable, with some soldering required. It would take some ...
answered Jun 19 '12 at 4:06
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4
If it is the same as a Forester, There is a much simpler method than that listed in poisson's answer.
Remove door card and seal cover, and unscrew and remove the switch panel.
Slacken off the 4 bolts holding the regulator assembly to the door.
Unplug the motor from the loom
Reach into the door, and undo the three bolts holding the motor in. You will have to ...
4
More than likely the problem is the window motors are going bad. Most have a thermal switch in them (sort of like a resettable fuse) which will stop the motor from working when a heat threshold has been reached. There are several factors which cause this, including the grease thickening in the gears as it gets older. I've seen this in many different vehicles....
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Can you post a picture of how it has cracked? It is hard to propose how to repair without seeing the specific damage.
As for taking the door apart. Taking an inner door panel off isn't a very difficult or time consuming task in most vehicles it may take 30minutes if you are new to it. It shouldn't be required usually power window switches can be accessed by ...
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Unfortunately there were no useful fault codes internally, but the fault was resolved to being the actuator switch for that window.
A replacement was the only course of action.
Update - got the full diagnostics. Turns out the switch had a fault which damaged part of the motor, so both were replaced!
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How old is the car? I think it's worth checking the fault codes, as sometimes a fault code can prevent an action like that. Clearing the fault codes can really improve a car if it hasn't had a computer connected in a while. Any faults which are persistent will come back and can then be worked on.
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I had this happen many years ago with an old Volkswagen, just before a 700 mile drive.
Duct tape is simple - tape the glass to the door frame, both inside and outside.
And (as we learned very quickly) - if it is raining also duct tape all around the window!
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You never know where used parts come from, unless you remove them, and even then you never know their state. I would suggest a new one, and hopefully from a reputable manufacturer. Also, I rarely saw motors go bad, as it was usually the window regulator that failed and would seize the window. The labor is usually around the same, but motors are about 3 times ...
3
My S60R had the same problem on the driver side window. Hold the button fully in order to close the window, but hold it when it gets to the top for 10 seconds. You will hear the window "nudge" from inside the door. Then immediately release and fully press the button again. It should now go up and stay up when using the auto function of the switch.
It seems ...
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You can apply car wax to the top/side weatherstrip - frost won't stick to wax. I don't like the fact that it automatically energizes the window, though; I've seen an awful lot of window bottom weatherstrips destroyed when heavily frosted windows were rolled down further than about 1/8". You live in a climate very similar to my own, too. You may be forced to ...
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Based on the parts diagrams and lists on Opposed Forces, you are out of luck as far as using a rear door's motor. Each of the four doors has its own part number; the front right's number is 61188SA001 whereas the front left is 61188SA010.
On the other hand, if you see the usage list for 61188SA001, this part seems to have been used on a wide range of S11 ...
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This is a weak point in Subarus.
I have had a Forester non-turbo 2005 for a few years and I have found that, on occasion, the driver-side power window simply fails to operate. But after drawing from a bucket of patience and then trying sometime later, it will work OK. It now seems to have come good and I haven't seen the problem for a number of months. So ...
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You could try unplugging each lock switch one at a time(or all at once) and test to see if a switch is shorting.
If the car has an aftermarket security system you could try removing it from the door lock system.
The wire loom that run into the doors can also be suspect.
You should probably have a locksmith look at your key and lock cylinder so that you ...
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Thank you guys for your advices. Yesterday i bought 2 regulators for the 2 doors. Now it works perfectly. 2 days ago the driver's door stuck in central locking and the window motors circuit doesnt pass power to the door lock. I had to open the locked door from the inside then at the moment that i changed the motor, the door opened from the door switch of the ...
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Actually maybe I will attempt to answer this. This is my theory, note I am a consumer, not a seller / mechanic. I've just seen a similar pattern with my own vehicle (2001, Honda).
I think a few factors come into play here:
OEM vs non-OEM parts: Equivalent parts manufactured by third-parties tend to be less expensive (for example, and also here).
Price ...
3
I would pop the door panel off, hook the switch back up, and set it in the sun. Prep your tools so you can quickly check for voltage and ground going into the switch, and at the motor. IMHO, the heat gun would be a last resort.
In the past, I have hooked up multiple test lights and meters in advance so they are ready to go.
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Hold up, don't order a motor just yet. What Ben meant (assuming) was pull the panel and jump the motor to test whether the motor is still working.
If it's not the motor, you can unplug the switch from the regulator and use wires to jump into the regulator plug (try to find a diagram, or be confident about which pin is ground)... finally, if that rolls the ...
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There's not much to worry about. Car doors have seals to keep rain out, as long as the window is in contact with the seal along its entire length rain will not get inside the door, even if it is not fully closed. Front door glass is usually angled or curved, so when half open the front part of the window may go below the seals, leaving a gap between them. ...
2
I got it worked out. I hadn't realized there were pins sticking out of the bottom of the window into the lift plate - window had to be moved laterally (and pretty forcefully), not just up. A mechanic in my area took 5 minutes to come out and help me in his parking lot and figured it out. Props to Auto Doctor in Crofton, MD, for anyone in this area.
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