Any vehicle worked on by a professional mechanic should be re-assembled properly
You have a real mess with the zip tie. Obviously that damage cannot be undone, you can't undrill a hole. It looks as if the panel that was broken is due to incorrect procedures used to remove them.
Interior panels can be difficult to remove if you do not follow the correct ...
Yes this is bad for your engine for a multitude of reasons. In fact, it's not good to run your engine at full throttle for extended periods of time unless the engine is designed to take it, whether it's cold or warmed up. Believe me when I say your little 1.2l Agila engine is not designed to take that kind of stress.
I'll start by suggesting that engines, ...
The short answer is probably not, but you are creating undue hardship on the internals that will likely lead them to fail earlier than they would otherwise.
When you drive your car, you are putting wear and tear on basically everything. Driving your car harder (accelerating quickly, stopping abruptly) just adds to the wear you are putting on it. Even just ...
As I stated in my comments: They did the damage; they need to fix it (or pay for it to be fixed). This is worse than shoddy craftsmanship. Any reputable shop would not look like this. Their mechanic did this; they need to fix it.
Take it back to the shop and point all of this stuff out to the Service Manager. Tell them you are not happy with the outcome of ...
Would this be safe?
tl;dr: No. It's hard to say exactly how unsafe or how bad the consequences might be.
Assuming the rails themselves weigh on the order of 5-10 kg, you're talking about almost doubling the advised load on the whole system.
From reading that advisory, it's hard to say exactly what failure modes their mechanical engineers are expecting. ...
Regulations limit the amount of unburnt hydrocarbons that can be released into the atmosphere, therefore fuel tanks on cars now have to be sealed to stop these emissions. The noise you hear is air rushing into the fuel tank, due to the low pressure caused by the use of fuel.
Absolutely not. There's no issue here. The engine/transmission were not coupled. There was no stress on the transmission. It just was running backwards from what it usually would. Really, it's no big deal.
You say that the gearbox won't be turning, but since the car is moving forward, the gears in the gearbox must be turning. Reverse doesn't usually have a synchromesh, so the gears won't synchronise and will therefor crunch. Clearly this will cause damage.
If you really want an intake that will likely survive deep water, you're going to need something more like:
Is the height of the bottom of the chassis the maximum height I can
drive through without hydrolocking? (This question is bordering on
Would I hydrolock, even though the intake is really high?
You might think ...
Yes, you need to cut them - difficult but possible with sidecutters, they do make special cutters for these, but you can grind them : be very careful where the sparks go : cover everything...
For replacement use a good quality hoseclamp making sure it is sufficiently wide.
All you might be doing is putting the cable under more stress than it needs. The cable will stretch over time. This is normal. It will take a long time for the life of the cable to expire.
I remember learning that automobiles automatically adjust for this stretch whenever you back up.
Basically, don't hammer the thing unless you really feel you need to.
An "unhappy" amount of movement in the pedal doesn't seem right, especially in a new car. If no one here can give you a definitive answer, and looking at the pedal mount and linkage under the dash isn't possible or doesn't tell you anything, I'd encourage you to go visit the dealer. They can inspect it and you can try some new cars and see if they have ...
Yes, the passenger seat belt warning chime and the passenger present systems are linked.
I can't speak about Opel directly, I'm familiar with Mazda and Honda. The way the passenger present systems works, is by using a weight sensor in the seat. The weight sensor senses below 20 kilos and above 40 kilos. If something is on the seat that is below 20 kilos ...
In theory, the harder you accelerate or decelerate(brake), the more you put stress on the different parts.
Most stressed parts when accelerating, in this order:
Most stressed parts when braking:
Forks and the rubber buffers
Finding information on the service required: call a dealer and ask them. Look online at forums. Etc.
How to tell if it's been neglected, that's the more important part of your question IMO.
You can tell a lot from the car physically, more so in my experience than from service records. Service records are only as useful as the record keeper, and in my ...
The inside band is not an issue. There is space between where the brake rides on the rotor (the shiny part) and the hat (the hub area). There has to be space here to allow the rotor to rotate independently of the brake pad and caliper.
The outside band may be more problematic. On most disk brake setups I've looked at, there will be a small band, usually ...
I just did this last weekend. It is an easy job!
The consensus on must of the Vauxhall/Opel forums is not to try and poke anything into the hole, you'll just ram the blockage further inside the nozzle.
Here are the steps...
Unclip the "strings" which hold the parcelshelf in place
Unscrew the plastic ball joints which those string were clipped to
Unclip the ...
I've personally had success clearing these nozzles using a sewing pin; the type that a seamstress may use to pin a garment together just before it is sewn.
You can not only use the pin to clear the nozzle but you can also use it to adjust the area of the screen that it's point at once it's been cleared.
Who is affected?
If your car has had any previous work on the heating system, I would STRONGLY advise that you take it to a local dealership. Non-genuine parts may have been used, which could overheat and catch fire.
If you car meets all of these criteria, then you are definitely affected.
Zafira B (all model variants)
If your car design is not ...
Above the pedal should be a button, with 2 wires coming out of it. When your pedal is up, the button will be pressed all the way down, as you press the pedal, be button will release. At some point this button turns on your tail lights.
I know the one on my truck is adjustable (because I've had to adjust it). In this case, you remove the wires from the ...
Before everything else i would check the spark plugs.
Under certain circumstances a crack in the insulator can cause problems at low rpm's but would be not feel-able with high rpm's.
Edit, and greetings to DucatiKiller:
Sorry, no explanation for the root cause. However, this comes from personal experience: I had a comparable problem (stuttering engine) at ...
The first step is figuring out where the wiggle is coming from. Stick your head or a camera under the dash and check the pedal assembly. If you don't have an Olympic gymnast-like ability to contort your body under the dash, a good trick with these new-age smart phones is to stick your camera under there, record a video with the flashlight, and wiggle the ...
Often times the speedo cable just needs lubrication. You can do this by disconnecting the speedo cable at the back of the speedometer and dropping some oil down the cable. Happens on Miata's all the time.
This is an opinion question, so you may get varied answers. This is my opinion.
In my experience, I have found it is always best to start with the simple and work toward the difficult. In your case, I would start with the wastegate before going to the expense and difficulty of changing the turbo itself.
It really depends on which part is sticking. If I've reconnoitered your turbo correctly, it has a built in wastegate. If it's the wastegate which is sticking and not the actuator, then you're wasting money by replacing the actuator (the turbo replacements I've seen for your engine come with a new actuator). You need to verify which part is at fault, ...
There is no need to change it immediately IMO.
The main difference between B3 and B4 is that the TBN number is higher for B4, which gives more capability of neutralizing acidic contaminants in long-oil-life or high-performance situations.
Whether you need to make the next oil change sooner (and how much sooner) is hard to say. It depends a lot on the ...
I regularly used to drive a Vauxhall Agila of the same age with large loads on the roof (bikes, roof boxes, long lengths of wood/plumbing/ladders, small boats, a big TV, and even a bath). My biggest concern was always the stability of the car, It is really light and tall, so too much on the roof lifts the centre of gravity high up. Couple this with cross-...
Do you have a Haynes manual or similar for the car? They usually describe how to remove the various bits of trim...
Before trying to remove the trim, have you tried cleaning the nozzle out with the tip of a needle or a fine bit of wire?
The bottom photo shows the trim to be in four parts - the window surround (two parts), the lower panel and the lock ...