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Broken oil pressure switch, happens a lot.


Nobody got the point here. You are all talking about the environment. If you retain the pcv valve and connect a hose to the catch can, there wont be enough hole to trigger the pcv valve, it needs a vacuum, to pull the crankcase pressure. You want a "pcv delete". Drill the pcv valve, remove the spring and other valve mechanism inside so it will be ...


You may have a blown head gasket. Do a cylinder leakdown test to either confirm or eliminate that possibility before replacing any more parts.


A 40% slope is well beyond what you will find on nearly any actual street in the world. But assuming you did find such a place to park and if your oil pan was designed such that such a slope would put the oil in contact with the gasket, would that be harmful? Well, considering that under normal operating conditions there is nearly always oil in contact with ...


Your engine doesn't appear to have sufficient oil level to even reach the lower mark Your dipstick has oil marks on it only next to places in the stick where it is bent. It seems likely that as you've pushed the dipstick down (after wiping) the places where it is bent have rubbed down the oil coated sides of the dipstick tube picking up sufficient amount of ...


Yes, it is a nuisance with this engine. I have a 2011 / 3.5 L, and it seems to hold oil along the dipstick passage. I just checked my oil which required starting it and moving to a level spot ( it MUST be level to check engine or trans oil). Then I put the dipstick in ,pull it out and wipe it off about three times before you can get a good level for the oil. ...


The first drain (1:36/38:50) is transmission fluid. Ford recommends you use WSD-M2C200-C Transmission Oil The second (8:53/27:09) is brake fluid associated with the hydraulic clutch master/slave system. The brake master cylinder reservoir feeds this. It should be DOT3 or 4, however, to keep you covered, DOT4 will work just fine. It mixes just fine with DOT3 ...


The motor has a failed head gasket, and/or a cracked cylinder head, and/or a faulty oil cooler. Any of these would explain the loss of oil and coolant, and the jellied deposits (from coolant getting mixed into the oil) inside the oil filter. Here's an almost-identical question and answer. The mechanics you've asked are lazy. This is not an OBD/software ...


The risk of anything bad happening is absolutely minimal if all you're seeing is a little smoke or vapor, and no oil blown all over the engine. I'd just drive it to the dealership; you've been driving it around without a dipstick for awhile now and so far no flaming wreckage, right? :-)

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