Hot answers tagged

10

Realistically, it doesn't mean either. The life expectancy is just that, how long you should be able to continue to use the oil which is in there. There is nothing wrong with the oil. It will continue to perform as it is supposed to. Your engine can use it in good health. At 3% your oil is getting close to needing it changed. The oil will continue to ...


5

The ideal method requires a moderate level of mechanical skills. There is a tool available (small block Chevy oil pump primer) that turns the oil pump with out cranking the motor over. The distributor is removed, the tool is essentially a distributor shaft with most of the parts missing. The end of the tool turns the oil pump which circulates the oil through ...


5

Generally with an oil change you also change the filter. On most engines the filter holds a significant amount of oil and it will not fill up until the engine runs and pumps enough oil into it. If you check the oil level before running the engine for a minute or so, you may leave the oil level low since you checked the level with the filter and also other ...


4

The link you posted shows the Shell Helix HX7 oil, which the Shell site claims is a semi-synthetic oil. Shell Helix series oil appears to have the following naming schema Name Bottle Label Type -------------------------------------------- HX2 High Mileage Conventional HX3 High Mileage Conventional HX5 High Mileage ...


4

Most "Oil Minder" or oil condition monitoring programs are similar in function. The program monitors the way you drive. It tracks if you do lots of long distance high speed driving or lots of short cycles where the engine doesn't reach operating temperature or a combination of types. Some also measure the electrical conductivity of the oil. It uses the data ...


4

Your engine doesn't appear to have sufficient oil level to even reach the lower mark Your dipstick has oil marks on it only next to places in the stick where it is bent. It seems likely that as you've pushed the dipstick down (after wiping) the places where it is bent have rubbed down the oil coated sides of the dipstick tube picking up sufficient amount of ...


3

Will changing to the 5w-40 hurt the engine? Most likely not. Should you change to it? I my humble opinion, no. Here's the thing ... the manufacturer has said 5w-30 (assuming that is correct) is the proper weight oil for the engine. This means all of the tolerances and how the engine runs is setup to match the 5w-30 weight oil. By using the heavier oil, you'...


3

It is completely fine as long as it is between the high and low marks. That said, if you take it back to where you got the oil changed at and tell them it looks a bit low, I'd bet they'd top it off for you. They want to keep you as a customer and it is really a small amount of oil which they didn't include in the first place.


3

The best practice is to follow your vehicle's factory specifications, those specifications are tested to bring out the best performance of the vehicle. This principle applies to both motorcycle and automobile industries. If you want to learn more, checkout this video I found. Enjoy!


3

If the sump plug was simply missing, that is, the oil pan and threads are intact then I find it extraordinarily unlikely that a bump, no matter how severe, would cause it to unscrew. If, however, the oil pan is damaged, the plug is "ripped out", the threads damaged, with clear indication of impact, then yes, the bump may have caused it. If it's the ...


3

A 40% slope is well beyond what you will find on nearly any actual street in the world. But assuming you did find such a place to park and if your oil pan was designed such that such a slope would put the oil in contact with the gasket, would that be harmful? Well, considering that under normal operating conditions there is nearly always oil in contact with ...


2

Neither of those will cause a problem, the 10W40 has a wider specification at the hotter end and the 5W40 exceeds the specification on both the hotter and colder performance. The 5 in the 5W40 means that the oil keeps its viscosity rating at lower temperatures and will flow as it should when cold starting etc. The 40 in 5W40 means that the oil keeps its ...


2

The main difference is that motorcycle oil are used for the engine, gearbox and clutch while automotive engine oils are "specialized" for the engine. Therefor the motorcycle oil needs certain additives (mostly wear protection) that the engine doesn't need, while the automotive engine oils contains more friction modifiers (low friction, optimizing ...


2

Not knowing exactly how you are checking your oil, there could be several things going on here: When checking your oil, your car needs to be on level ground. If leaning forward or to the rear, it won't read correctly. Doing this consistently will give you consistent results. In most vehicles, you need to allow the oil to drain back to the pan after you've ...


2

How can I know how much badly the performance has been reduced as a result? You can't - at least not with out a meaningful baseline to compare it to. E.g should I check 0-60 Times are consistent with factory 0-60 times are very rarely going to be consistent with the factory times. Too many variables affect this - unless you know the full conditions the ...


2

There can be more to it than "just" the weight/viscosity when it comes to a manufacturer specification. This can be a question of detergent/cleaning component content, operating life, operating temperature ranges and behavior, properties that can effect DPFs and so on. They aren't always a big deal, and sometimes it can be nothing more than a case ...


2

Your suspicions are correct. Don't forget to check the oil level. It will probably start just fine the next day. If not: --turn off the fuel supply using the red knob I see in the picture. --move the fast/slow (silver) lever to the "fast" position. --pull-start the cord many times. --shake the entire unit from wheel-to-wheel (side-to-side) ...


2

Change the oil as soon as possible and check how much metal debris is in the oil. A good mechanic can tell you if there is an abnormal amount. If there is excessive metal int he oil, damage may have occurred. If there is no excess metal, I would say if the car runs fine, do not worry about the incident.


2

More than likely if there is still some oil in the engine, there is no damage done. With only a few hundred miles on the vehicle, the oil should be new and therefore should be good for some time, even if it is low. What you need to be doing is getting it back to the dealership and figuring out why it was low on oil. Coming from the factory, it's HIGHLY ...


2

It sounds like some oil may have been been getting blown out of the dipstick tube while driving and has ended up on the exhaust. You probably won’t experience this with the engine ticking over (as suggested in the comments) since there won’t be sufficient crank case pressure at tick over. There is a risk that oil blowing out could end up on the hot exhaust ...


2

The first drain (1:36/38:50) is transmission fluid. Ford recommends you use WSD-M2C200-C Transmission Oil The second (8:53/27:09) is brake fluid associated with the hydraulic clutch master/slave system. The brake master cylinder reservoir feeds this. It should be DOT3 or 4, however, to keep you covered, DOT4 will work just fine. It mixes just fine with DOT3 ...


1

Extracting the oil is perfectly acceptable. Certain cars ("Smart" if I recall correctly) don't even have an drain plug anymore. The residual amount of oil, assuming no mistakes during extraction, isn't relevant.


1

If you drain the oil, hot or cold, and wait 2 days for all the oil to drain out you still won’t get all of it out. Just take the engine apart and all the surfaces will still have a thin layer of oil on them. So most of us just get the largest part out and then the ratio of new to old is high. If you really want to make an effort then drain the old oil, fill ...


1

Clean synthetic oil every 3500 to 5000 mi with filter each time reduces engine wear. Non-synth oil much less mileage. I doubt aftermarket filter would block oil flow to the extent that starves some bearings unless you have low oil pressure and/or excessive wear.


1

You may not have the car on a perfectly level surface which may be causing the slightly low reading. I would not worry about that as long as it stays there and is not using oil over time. Having to add a liter every 1000 miles is more of a cause for concern.


1

The galleries only hold a small amount of oil, between 0.5 and 1 litre roughly. As the pump forces oil into the galleries, that same amount comes out and returns to the sump. The sump holds 4 or more litres so there is always enough for the pump to draw on and also enough when the level changes due to hills or braking etc. The other thing the oil does is to ...


1

The oil filter should pick up any remaining. If it does not have a filter then what I have done in the past is to pour a half gallon or so of diesel into the oil reservoir and give it a shake then drain that out thoroughly and refill with clean oil. A good learning experience is to clean all tools before putting them away - then this type of thing is less ...


1

Oil from the crankshaft rotation is thrown against the cylinder walls during engine operation. This is oil escaping from the rod bearing. When the piston comes down in the cylinder, the bottom rings (usually a pair, called oil control rings) scrapes the cylinder pretty much clean of oil. There is a very small amount left behind on the cylinder walls which ...


1

Is it actually soot or is it oil? If it is oil and you didn't notice this behavior prior to the oil change, I'd suggest one of two things has happened: Either the shop didn't tighten the drain plug tight enough, or they over tightened it and stripped the threads. If it's loose, you should be able to tighten it without too much of a hassle. If it's stripped, ...


1

Oils have various additives. Some of the oils in 4 cycle oil form ash if they are burned in combustion; elements like zinc and barium . Because all the 2 cycle oil will be burned it is formulated with no "ash" forming additives. I expect using 4 cycle oil in a 2 cycle engine for many miles would leave ash deposits someplace.


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