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You Asked What are the benefits of a dry sump? Simply put a wet sump crankcase has oil sitting in the bottom of the crankcase. It's affected by various forces as the car or motorcycle is driven. At times it is possible, during hard braking or cornering, that the oil pickup is not in oil, resulting in a low or no oil pressure condition that could ...


16

Since this is a Tahoe, I'm going to assume it has the 5.3L LM7 (LSx variant) in it. These have an oil pressure sensor at the back top of the engine under the cowl portion (near the windshield). It should be on the back left side of the engine. These are just pressure actuated and allow (IIRC) from 0 to 5vdc to flow through, which the ECU then takes and ...


11

An addition to the previous answers: A limiting factor in car construction is the engine height. Using a dry sump setup the engine gets smaller in height and can be located lower. This lowers the car's center of gravity resulting in a better track performance.


9

Dry sump oiling systems are primarily used in racing situations. The main purpose is it will provide oil pressure under any type of hi-G maneuvers, to include cornering, braking, and acceleration. A dry sump oiling system is made up of several parts. The reason why it is called a "dry sump" is because the sump, where in a normal engine is the reservoir for ...


6

Per Wikipedia. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dry_sump A dry sump offers many advantages.[1] The most obvious are increased oil capacity afforded by the remote reservoir, and the capability to mount the engine lower in the vehicle because of the lower sump profile—lowering the overall center of gravity. The external reservoir can also be relocated to ...


6

Many mechanical oil pumps look like this. There is very little mechanical resistance and friction occurring in this design. With very little lubrication this type of oil pump will do just fine in terms of wear. When you change your oil the fluid in the pump will more than likely not be drained, as a result there will be some lubrication in the pump ...


4

60 MPH assuming you are in the same gear at both speeds. At a constant gear, your engine turns at a fixed ratio to the distance you travel. So if you travel from A to B your engine will always turn X revolutions, regardless of speed. In other words, the piston experiences the exact same number of cycles regardless of 60 or 70 mph Air friction increases ...


4

The number of times the oil and filter are changed in the process of cleaning out an engine is not a fixed number. We keep changing it until it stays clean. Two changes is a common average. The change interval also matters; we use an interval of 200 miles. There are too many variables to establish a set cleaning routine. The amount and type of internal ...


3

I would connect a "physical" pressure gauge (Bourdon gauge) with a pipe and check the actual pressure. I would do this as soon as possible to make sure that there is no problem with a pressure relief valve or similar causing a zero oil pressure. Once you know that the engine oil pressure is physically sound, then you can check for the other causes ...


3

There is a oil pressure sensor that screws into the engine block or head. An electrical connector on the sensor connects the sensor to the vehicle's wiring harness. The sensor electrical signal is likely read by one of the vehicle's computers which will sound the alarm if it sees a low oil pressure. The computer will also send the signal to the oil ...


3

While @Robert-Ryan is technically correct, I'd be surprised if there was a measurable difference in engine lifetime. Engine wear is dominated by cold starts. Once the engine is thoroughly warm, engine wear is minimal. If you want to maximize engine life, minimize the number of short trips where the engine doesn't get warm, or invest in an engine block heater....


3

It's common for the oil pressure light to stay on longer from a cold start - as you rightly surmise, the oil has all settled down into the sump, and so it needs to build up pressure. Some diesels also use thicker oil than petrol cars, which will take longer to build up pressure (but equally will take longer to drain down). How old is the car? it might be ...


3

Your engine didn't seize, if it had it would never have turned over again and it would have required a complete overhaul or replacement. It quit on you, and that's not good, but it's better than having to replace the engine. It's not possible to say what's happened to your car without more details like ODB codes. It could be anything from an ignition ...


2

You probably have a blown head gasket. The only other explanation is the car has an oil to antifreeze cooler that is cracked or damaged. What is happening is that the oil pressure is greater than coolant pressure and is forcing it's way into the coolant. The head gasket separates not only the combustion chamber but also coolant, pressurized oil and oil ...


2

Check the crank case ventilation. If it is blocked on the air intake side, a vacuum when under acceleration would suck against the oil in the sump. When you let off the gas, the vacuum would drop and allow the oil pressure to increase.


2

What should I do? Hope for the best. If the oil light was red, not yellow, it's not the "check oil" light. It's the "stop driving immediately, oil pressure low!" light. There's a risk of imminent engine damage with low oil pressure. If the light was yellow (which it probably wasn't given that it turned off automatically and wasn't "sticky") then you ...


2

Short of partial disassembly to perform a bearing clearance test, there's nothing you can do now to determine engine condition. Increase oil and filter changes for the next six months. Then go back to your regular recommended oil change intervals.


2

That's a very subjective question, without a real "it will be xxx seconds to catastrophic failure". The reason being is, it depends on a lot of factors, such as: What kind of load is the engine under when the failure occurs? What kind of oil is being used in the engine? How old is the engine? Has proper maintenance been done to the engine? The best ...


2

It could be any or a combination of all of those, so flushing, cleaning, new (quality or oem) filter etc is a good point to start. I would make, or purchase, a tee and fit a pressure gauge temporarily to monitor the behavior. Any real pressure loss compared to light action should be obvious. I would suspect a chafed wire somewhere which brings the light on. ...


1

It seems to me the oil might not be returning to the pan quick enough, so after a bit of harder running, when you release the clutch and the RPMs drop, the oil pressure drops to the point where the sensor isn't seeing enough pressure and the light comes on. A Seafoam treatment in the crankcase may help. If it doesn't, I can think of a few things which might ...


1

The items that suggest intermittent wire chafing to me are its occurrence intermittently, "when braking," and during "sharper turns or going downhill." In each of these, the driveline and motor will move around on their mounts as the car goes from accelerate/steady state to braking's deceleration. Physical movement of stuff within the car ...


1

Different lights or messages may occur under separate criteria. If you got the message during a stall, the stall itself could have been the cause for the message. But if it were me personally, if there is ever a question of oil pressure, I would have it checked immediately. If there is one thing that will always, unconditionally and unforgivingly ruin an ...


1

I think your oil issue is coincidental - My money is on a faulty/dirty mass air flow sensor, or a leak in your intake assembly causing bad readings on the sensor. Examine your intake assembly from filter to throttle body - make sure there is no "unregulated air" seeping in from loose connections. All air must pass through the mass air flow sensor for the ...


1

Ok problem solved by cleaning the oil pan and the thing inside it i guess its a filter or something.


1

The pressure sensor is where I'd turn first. While I'm not big on Remove and Replace (R&R) mechanics, this is a cheap option. The other thing you can do is to remove the pressure sensor and put a mechanical gauge in its place, just to see if the electronic one is accurate. Oil pressure lights come on around 5psi (or thereabouts, depending on the ...


1

If you are saying that you have run the engine with no oil for 1 minute at a time, for 8 minutes. I'd have to ask why. Running an engine with no oil is just asking for trouble and running it 8 times for 1 minute at a time Is easily enough to cause damage or at least wear to any components that are contact with each other. I'm afraid that if it were my ...


1

There's usually no wizardry around the oil light. It's a pressure switch. If there isn't enough oil pressure to "tip" the switch, your oil light will appear. Recheck your work around the oil change. Fluid refill level and oil leaks at the filter. Others will chime in with paranoia, but you're almost certainly fine if you haven't been idling the car for ...


1

Don't know if anybody has documented this, but I think it is self-evident that slower speeds and lower rpm's will result in greater longevity. Imagine driving your car at a steady 5000 rpm, and consider it's lifespan compared to 2500 rpm.


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