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I have actually seen an AC compressor on a 5.4 lock up so badly that the engine would no longer start. However, this was after the clutch had gone bad for a long time and the AC was not working at all for a while leading up to this. Also probably not a likely scenario. Most likely, the compressor clutch would stay disengaged if something were to happen to ...


2

It sounds to me like you damaged the rear end differential. One way to possibly diagonse this is to jack the back end up, putting it on jack stands. Once suspended, rotate one wheel while someone else keeps the other side still, with the transmission in neutral. If you're hearing any type of grinding noise or metal on metal, you've probably got an issue. At ...


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For 1) if you slowly release the brakes then they can "drag" on the disks for longer and as the disks start to rotate, either through grade or suspension load, then you hear the sound caused by friction. For 2) as you select reverse, then the drive train, being an automatic is being loaded into turning the opposite direction which will absorb all ...


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The problem is most likely due to old slave cylinder causing the throw out bearing to make noise. I had a similar problem which was solved through this.


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I got the car to a shop, and they found the cause for the humming. I guess it can be useful to others with the same issue. What happened, was that the LPG expansion chamber (this particular model, at least) has an approximate lifetime of 100'000 km and, while it works quite well during that span, it gets clogged with residuals from the gas. Once (well, a bit ...


2

I am a former accessory drive engineer at Gates. The squeal you hear can be due to a couple of reasons. Your belt has worn out. Depending on their construction, (usually either cotton, polyester cord or aramid cord), belts stretch 2-5% of their length and wear down deeper into the grooves. This causes their friction to change and results in noise. Check ...


2

That sounds like a squeaking ancillary belt (fan belt) to me. This belt drives things like the alternator. May just need adjusting, but may need replacing. Sometimes the noise changes when you add electrical load to the alternator by turning the lights on and the window demister etc.


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I checked the clip and this sounds like dashboard rattle, tap and hold around the dashboard and you will find it. Once had similar rattle turned out it was from seat belt locking mechanism on the passenger seat. Definitely not a transmission rattle.


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This is the brake fluid tank. Underneath it likely has the ABS actuators, which likely make the sound you are hearing. I'd start by diagnosing ABS (with a scanner). If you don't have the scanner that can diagnose ABS - pull the ABS fuse and start the car to see if the sound is still there.


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In my experience, creaking noises are usually caused by a handful of things: worn bushings, worn ball joints, worn strut mount or components, or worn sway bar components. Basically, anything that pivots or moves can be a culprit. Your Civic uses struts in the front, so it has fewer moving parts than some other vehicles with control arms. You will need to get ...


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If that problem occurs when the car is in neutral and nothing engaged, check for any lose bolts or brackets this can make a lot of noise under load.


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The sounds look like water dripping on the metal. It looks like your AC water dripping on the wrong one, it should be dripping straight to the floor / ground, not on the metal. If you use AC while driving, please check if anything dripping like water on the ground. If you can't find anything dripping then it must be AC water dripping on metal. This is bad ...


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creaking sound is too large to assume. There is so much possibility of what happens with your car, But I have this same kind of problem back in 2016. Possible procedure to narrow it down: Turn on your engine in neutral position, turn your steering wheel first left and right after that do rev your engine, while you rev turn your steer. If you found creaking ...


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Sounds like the only remaining possibility is the brake dragging. The caliper piston may be failing, or the pads themselves may be sticking. The pads basically float along a low-friction surface (those metal clips that usually come with new pads that snap onto the caliper). If those clips corrode, go missing, or otherwise lose their low-friction properties, ...


1

According to this reply in a German car forum, it's the throttle valve, which is controlled using a PWM signal. Apparently, as soon as the engine has power, the valve is brought into a standby position, the PWM signal of which causes the noise. When switching the engine off, the valve is brought into its end positions multiple times (for calibration?), which ...


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Is there's no foreign object debris in the wheel then a noise from a front wheel comes from a limited set of sources in a rear wheel drive car/van: Wheel bearing: Not all wheel bearing failures sound the same Suspension: you can get squeaks and rattles under movement if there's a bad suspension component Brake system: a loose caliper, failed caliper, seized ...


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I found the issue, after a lot of searching through the fiatforum.com and by chance came across a suggestion it could be the intake pipe leading to the airbox, which is mounted to the chassis via a metal bracket with a rubber bushing. The bushing was worn so the plastic intake was rattling around a bit. This made a hollow rattling noise, which I mistook for ...


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