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10

The range switch doesn't think the car is in park. On Fords theres an adjustable cable if you look on the driver side of the transmission there will be lever with a cable attached. Sometimes the clip on the cable fails. if the cable is OK pull the lever all the way into park and it should start. If it doesn't you probably need a new range switch.


9

If this is a car you are planning on keeping, I'd highly suggest just paying the money to get it fixed. A stop leak may work for a period of time, but it's only temporary. A couple of things to consider with a stop leak is, it usually works great for keeping the coolant from flowing places it shouldn't, but it doesn't work too good at keeping the exhaust ...


7

How old is the battery? If it's the original one, it's probably just in need of replacement. 5-7 years is a typical battery lifetime. At the end of life, they will sometimes appear to charge, but die rapidly if not used for a few days.


7

You might get away with it, but I sure wouldn't recommend trying. The risks just seem too high. Instead try either blowing air into the cylinder with a small tube (to leave room for the shell to come out), or sucking it out with a vacuum connected to a small hose. You may have better luck if you turn the engine over by hand to bring the piston up near the ...


6

This question and answer from @BobCross is very illuminating and may help you in your decision making process. Have a look.


5

I think what you are experiencing is normal behavior for just about any rear-wheel drive vehicle (and probably most front wheel drives, but to a lesser extent). This is due to the loading/unloading of the drive train as the engine (as you suggested) is forced to catch up to the movement force which is being counter acted upon. To put it out there a little ...


5

The VIN is stored within the OBD-II system. This is what the dongle is reading. If the PCM was ever replaced, the VIN may not have been stored correctly in the new (to the car) PCM. Any shop which does aftermarket tunes can check and put the correct VIN back into it. Then your insurance fob will be reading without the mismatch.


5

tl;dr: I can't find any evidence that removing the catalytic converters on this model will improve the car. It will definitely confuse the ECU (and obviously pollute more). I've looked hard for any dyno sheets that show any concrete evidence that cat delete alone will add power. Removing the cats is something that I would almost never recommend outside of ...


5

Cleaning the MAF won't help here because the fuel trims are negative. A dirty MAF would typically under-read mass air flow and subsequently force a positive fuel trim correction. A few possibilities: oversized fuel injectors If the fuel injectors are pushing through more fuel than what the fuel management is expecting, this would force a negative fuel ...


5

It's likely just sealant keeping it together. Some blocks and pans have tabs on the side to allow for a prybar to be inserted without the potential to compromise the seal when it's put back together. A wood or plastic wedge also works well with a mallet and has less of a chance of scoring the sealing edges. I've also used large screwdrivers carefully at the ...


5

What I'd suggest instead is: if it's a paper gasket, get a sheet of gasket paper (available at most auto parts stores) and very carefully trace the old one onto the paper (be sure to use the finest-tipped implement you can to avoid making the new gasket slightly wider), cut with a razor. If it's a rubber o-ring, they are available in various sizes online as ...


4

Do a load test on the battery. You will need a multimeter or voltmeter and a fully charged battery. Connect the meter leads to the battery posts (positive with positive and negative with negative). Put the meter where you can see while starting the car (on the windshield laying down works). Make note of how many volts does the meter read with the car OFF. ...


4

Tl;dr: it might be better for noise, vibration and harshness than for handling. Once upon a time, I had a Fox body mustang. I remembered it being chock full of rattles and squeaks. It was definitely a source of sideways looks from the WifeUnit back in the we have no money days. After doing a little research, it appears that the greatest measurable ...


4

You could try a flexible epoxy or something like a cloth/heavy-duty repair tape: http://www.gorillatough.com/gorilla-clear-repair or https://www.mcnett.com/gearaid/tenacious-tape#10691


4

First of all, this doesn't apply to Bavaria alone, but to all Germany. You are right, diesel and petrol cars get the same stickers, though, petrol cars get either no sticker (no catalytic converter, EURO 1) or a green sticker (with converter, EURO2 or better). So this stickers mainly affect diesel cars. In general, the class of a car is usually determined ...


4

The clutch, e-brake pads, and tires are almost certainly all fine. They can take a lot of abuse and if they're still working (assuming no noticeable tire gouges) they are fine. You probably ought to have the underside of your car's frame checked, though. If it scratched off the coating you could get rust problems later on, especially if you live where they ...


4

Short answer - no. Mostly RTV is just not meant for that kind of pressure. In a pinch, sure - short-term, but not as a fix.


3

It's probably the terrible stock speakers. Upgrade your speakers or put in a subwoofer if you want bass.


3

When you first turn your vehicle on, the vehicle itself does a "Power On Self Test" or POST. When you turn your key from off to the run position (before you start it up), all of the dash lights which are usable will light up. You should get used to which ones light up and keep those in the back of your memory. If a bulb should go out, you'll notice the ...


3

I'm not familiar with the car, but could you not create a temporary cover/box out of some light plastic or aluminium sheet? Either stuck down in the same way as the carpet (although I personally wouldn't bother with carpet at this stage, get the important bits done first and worry about that later...), or screwed to the bulkhead either side of the ECU. I ...


3

In a generic sense, yes, you can remove the lifters without removing the heads or engine from the vehicle. I'm assuming your engine is the 3.8L V6. There were two other engines available, the 4.6L V8 and 5.4L V8. Both of these are overhead cam engines which used rocker on lifter arrangements. I'll assume you don't have these because most owners of these ...


3

1972 Flat Rate data is a bit difficult to come by, even from a fossil like myself that never throws anything away. For a 1982 Mustang 5.0 V8, book is around 2 hours labor. The engine compartment is less crowded on a 1972, and might be a tad easier.


3

Look again at the page you referred to, you need the second table marked 'Petrol'. According to this page by the German certification authority TUV, you are allowed to drive your Mustang in the Münich city center. All petrol cars that conform to EUR I and higher (From 1 Jan. 1993) get a green Umwelt-sticker and are allowed to drive everywhere. So all ...


3

This is just me being anal, but you'd actually be getting undersized bearings not oversized. You really needed to have pulled the engine, checked the crankshaft journals out in order to see if you needed new bearings. If the reason you are changing the bearings is you spun a rod bearing, you'll have to get your crank ground which would require undersized ...


3

As Solar Mike said, you can get it at the Ford dealer. This same basic engine was used in a lot of different vehicles over many, many years. The engine model was only replaced in the Ford lineup in the past few years. You don't want to use RTV, it will never make a good seal, and if you did happen to get it to seal, it could fail at any time, leaving the ...


3

According to This ford specific parts website you are looking for part number 6C639 (or possibly 6600 if I am misunderstanding your description of the part) Note the square and circle in the top left corner used to denote which gasket is which. Don't let those prices scare you, searching for the same part number on Amazon finds it for 10 USD.


3

I used to have a set of manuals that had all of this info but, for reasons I won't get into, I don't have them at this time. But I remember tightening end caps on a 2001 v6 3.8l several years ago, if that's what you have. Three step process to tighten end cap bolts should go as follows: Tighten to 18 ft. lbs. Then tighten to 33 ft. lbs. Lastly, tighten ...


3

Inspect your transmission shifter cable. Make sure it is tight at both ends, as this is the most likely cause. This would leave the transmission in Park. If the cables seems tight, shift through all the positions on the selector, do this a few times, and then try D again. If it still doesn't work, try R. Make sure you have transmission fluid. Use the ...


3

In short, yes you lost oil. The question is how much? The purists would drain the system, but in your case that is impractical. Suggestion. Find out the total oil charge for the system. If you can call the compressor rebuild er and see how much oil they charge it with. Now try to estimate how much oil was sprayed out during the big event. Difficult but ...


3

Yes, you can do it, if you have sufficient access to the hole. A tap with handle is going to be around 2"-4" long. Do you have enough clearance to get it in place, perpendicular to the surface of the head? If not, will lifting the engine slightly - remove engine mount nuts, lift engine with your floor jack - give you enough room? Another question: How many ...


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