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13

Motor mounts should last longer than that. They normally break when you put a lot of stress on them, such as hitting a raised railroad crossing going too fast. Sometimes they'll break if there is a lot of vibration in the engine, but you would notice that. Since they went out that fast, a couple of possibilities are (1) the new mounts didn't get put on ...


12

I thought I'd mention this since others haven't. Are they aftermarket wheels? If so, do they have hub-centric rings and did you make sure all the hub-centric rings were on the wheels before installing them on the car? If you're missing a hub ring, it's possible the wheel isn't perfectly centered. The wobble is sometimes very slight and sometimes great, ...


11

In the two pictures/icons you provide the arrow is intended to indicate the flow of air with regards to the cabin. Where the arrow is coming in from outside the car allows air from outside the vehicle in through the HVAC vents. The circular (ish) arrow indicates that the air already inside the cabin is being recycled through the HVAC system and put out the ...


9

Were the mounts replaced with factory-spec ones? A friend of mine replaced his with aftermarket ones as OEM mounts for his car were not available, and they failed after only a few months due to poor vulcanisation between the rubber and metal parts.


8

It sounds like there is an issue with something in the vehicle after it goes from open loop (before sensors are used to run the car) to closed loop (where the vehicle starts using inputs from the O2s, MAF, and other sensors). This switch over usually occurs about two minutes from a cold start-up. I would start by cleaning the MAF with electronics cleaner (...


8

Putting transmission fluid into your engine shouldn't have hurt anything, and as you've found out, may help it a little by cleaning stuff out. Obviously, it's not necessarily a good thing, especially considering if you have too much fluid in the crankcase. It is my opinion you should get the "oil" changed as soon as possible and try not to run it too long. ...


8

First, you need to know what each does. #1 allows Fresh air from outside the vehicle. #2 is Recirculates air already inside the vehicle. Unless you are running the AC, you should have the selector to #1. This will help reduce the "misting" effect you are seeing. Selection #2 recirculates air within the vehicle. This is helpful during hot days when the AC ...


7

Looking at the description of the California O2 sensor for your car, the only thing different on it (besides the internals) is the electrical plug. The wrench which you tighten it down with is 7/8", which means the sensor bung should be the same size as well. I don't think there is any real external difference between the California and non-California sensor....


7

Seems like the high-side pressure is too high The refrigerant needs to be operating at the right pressures in order for the air-con to function properly: If the pressure is too low, there is risk of compressor damage in addition to lack of cooling If the pressure is too high, the effectiveness of cooling diminishes at the very least To avoid hitting ...


6

Generally speaking, keeping the parking brake engaged while driving the vehicle will heat your brake pads and potentially wear them down rapidly. If you're not hearing any grinding or squeaking on your brake pads it is PROBABLY not a problem. However, for peace of mind I'd suggest having someone inspect the brake pads for deformity or cracking, just if you ...


6

Were all of the engine mounts replaced or just the broken ones? It's possible that you're replacing engine mounts whilst not replacing other engine mounts which could be making your motor slightly vibrate which will further stress the other mounts and break them. It takes just one bad mount to break the rest of them. Are you thrashing your car by any chance?...


6

It sounds as though you did suck up some water and were on the verge of hydrolock, but didn't quite get there. I also doubt you have caused any damage to the engine, in fact, you may have inadvertently helped your engine (though I wouldn't suggest you do this again!!!). The extra sputtering may have been a case of the filter on your CAI getting soaked with ...


6

Pretty sure it's this one: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitsubishi_Delica I guess it's the third generation of the Mitsubishi Delica, pre-facelift. Rougly from 1986 to 1994. Also the country where it's from narrows down the options, as they look a tad different from each other depending on the country.


5

Is it actually a full-out wobble, or just a really hard and fast shake? A wobble that throws your wheel left and right is a fairly big issue... Normally to do with the tightening of the lug-nuts. A rapid shake could be something as small as needing a balance on one or more wheels (weights can sometimes fall off, due to many factors... Dropping the tire too ...


5

It'd be worth looking for additional items that need to be addressed that could be causing extra strain on your motor mounts. For example on my vehicle, there are the two front motor mounts underneath the engine. Then there is a third one that depending on who you talk to will call it a rear motor mount, transmission mount or transmission isolator. Since ...


5

Just to add to the other answer as I ran into this same issue, what kind of emissions do I have on my mitsubishi galant? I had this code: P0421 and I had to replace my O2 Sensor & the catalytic converter but I wasn't sure if I needed the CARB (California Air Resource Board) compliant ones or not. There is a label that identifies what type you have. I ...


5

If this looks like your water pump, then yes you can: The tilt in the pulley is caused not from a broke shaft, but from a worn bushing which the shaft rides upon. This is just one of the symptoms which shows up when the pump is dying a short miserable death. As the bushing wears out, there is created more and more space (slop) which allows the shaft to lilt ...


5

The short answer is: you have a fuel leak. What you described would seem to indicate a leak or some major engine problems. Does the car run normally? Since you didn't mention the car wasn't running bad, I assume it's running normal which would tend to dismiss a mechanical problem, like you aren't running on all the cylinders. Let's look at some numbers,...


5

I'm not a fan of RTV Others that are professional and hobbyists don't agree with me but, some do. I just don't use RTV, it's like duct tape to me. I get a physiological reaction to the acronym. I feel it has it's uses in very rare cases. Why don't I like RTV? Because if use too much it can create a bead inside of the motor and then eventually break ...


4

Getting the wheels balanced won't hurt. They are the typical culprit of a shaking steering wheel. Many tire places will even balance them for free. It would also be worthwhile to jack up the front of your car and check to see if you have any play in your control arms or in the tie rods, or if the boots are badly worn. I had a problem with a shaking steering ...


4

Without pulling the head you can do a leak down test. Set cylinder 1 to TDC make sure the cam and crank align. Pull the intake tube and open the throttle. Hook up a leak down testing kit. Listen for air. If it's coming out of the intake you have bent valves. If it's coming out the exhaust you have bent valves. An alternative would be to use a boroscope ...


4

Fog on the windshield happens when there is warm, moist air inside the car and a cold windshield (chilled by the cold, dry air outside). So when using your ventilation system to de-fog your windshield, you want to do three things: Blow dry air over the windshield, to absorb the condensation from it Heat the windshield, so that the water evaporates into the ...


4

My best guess would be an early 90's (1991 ??) Mitsubishi Delica.


4

It's a 3rd generation Mitsubishi Delica (L300), hard to tell exact year from that pic but I'd say pre-facelift (so pre-98) and the twin headlights suggest it possibly being the US version, which would have been badged as a "Wagon" since that appears to be the passenger version, the cargo version was badged (imaginatively) as the "Van" and that would place it ...


4

The accessories use far less amps than what the vehicle demands when it trys to start. Check your battery with a multimeter if you're under 12.6V you'll likely need to charge the battery and then try starting. You could also try jump starting it. It's more likely that the battery is weak, rather than something major has happened. I hope this helps.


3

Actually, I've found that a can/bottle of fuel system cleaner, like say from STP or BG, works great with one caveat - it says to add to one full tank of gas. Add it to a nearly empty tank so that you can drive at least 30 miles or so, and run it as close to empty as possible before adding gas again. The extra bit of concentration makes a big difference, just ...


3

You can make your own delivery system. Go to your local hardware store and purchase a weed and insect 2 gallon pump pressure container. You will then cut the sprayer hose off at the tank. You then need approximately 6 feet of fuel line that will slide over the tank fitting and over the rail fitting. You will need to remove the valve from inside the rail ...


3

Abusive driving (neutral drops, hard launches, burn-outs, etc.) can also cause motor mounts to break prematurely.


3

Make sure the squeaking is coming from the motor mounts. I had an issue that I thought was the motor mounts and so I replaced them. The rattling was gone. However over time it came back and got worse. Then the balance shaft broke into pieces and it was clear that the shaft was the problem from the beginning.


3

Unbalance tires maybe one of the reason. You may want to go to the shop and have its alignment checked. If they are new, you may have a free check up where you purchased them which i have done before.


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