11

The reason for this is LEDs don't draw as much power as regular incandescent lights do. By putting the LEDs into the vehicle, you are making the vehicle believe the lights are out because of the lower draw. The indicators blink faster to indicate to you, the driver, there is a bulb out which needs to be changed. One way to fix this is to put a resistor in ...


7

I found 2003 and 2005 manuals online. It says that the central locking switch on the dash unlocks all three doors. Once unlocked, you should be able to push the button in the outside door handle, which is the lip above the license/number plate. In the case of an electrical malfunction, you can lift the base of the rear seat, and there is a ring on a cable ...


6

I think the overheating episode did a permanent damage to your car. A gasket could have cracked or the head could have warped or even cracked, thus allowing water into the engine itself. Too much heat in an engine can cause serious problems because heat causes metal to expand. The hotter the engine gets, the tighter clearances become until there are ...


5

It was the high pressure fuel pump. After letting it sit overnight, the dealership was able to reproduce the issue and replaced the pump under the extended warranty. The car is driving like it did when I bought it two years ago. No more trouble starting, no more stumbling when accelerating when cold. Thanks to everyone for your suggestions!


5

I'm going to answer this in a general way because for someone to tell you what the wires mean, they would need to follow this procedure, or have access to detailed wiring diagrams for your car. You'll need a multimeter for this, and you'll have to take apart the brake light as if you were changing the bulbs so you have access to the bulb sockets. I'm ...


4

The solution was to simply drill out the old bolts.


4

According to the Mini forums you'll get sharper throttle response. The throttle will seem to be respond quicker both opening and closing. The power steering effort will increase and on some models you get that racy exhaust noise while deaccellerating.


4

Blue Green is the indicator wire for the left rear, blue brown for the right rear. Assuming USDM.


3

You shouldn't run into any issues only replacing two tires, as long as they are on the same axle (as you are suggesting). If the vehicle was an All Wheel Drive (AWD) model, you'd not want to do it. Seeing as how your JCW is only 2WD, there won't be an issue with it. Do exactly as you suggested, that is moving the rear tires to the front and putting the new ...


3

Front wheels that are out of balance will cause shaking in the steering wheel at certain speeds. Tires that are bad can do this at all speeds. If the shaking was partially resolved by putting on a spare, try rotating the tires. Make sure the wheel nuts are torqued to spec.


3

If you are looking to figure out which wire goes to which, an easy way to figure this out is to have a source which produces 12vdc and has the two leads for (+) and (-) with probes attached, plus a pad and pencil to mark down what is what. After you have your 12v source and other supplies to get started, take the bulb section out of the housing so it looks ...


3

It's fine to run Synthetic Oil with crushed Dinosaurs, which is exactly what 'part-synthetic' oils are - but because the chemistry of the two oils you have is unknown, I wouldn't do it for too long (the TBN - Total Base Number - of the mixture may change in unexpected ways). By running the 'wrong' oil, you're better off than running it with no (or low) oil! ...


3

The OBD code you are getting is: Code P15DF : Fuel high-pressure system, cold start: pressure too low On the Mini I think there's 2 fuel pumps, an electric one in the tank and a mechanical one called the High Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP) which is driven by the car. The HPFP is in the same vicinity as the throttle body, under the intake manifold, so I ...


2

If you don't get a click at all, then I'd think that the signal isn't getting to the starter motor, so either an immobiliser problem as you suggest, or a problem with the switch as per JPhi's comment. If you can get at the starter, you might be able to attach a multimeter probe to the signal wire (the smaller of the two wires going to the starter) to see ...


2

The Mini has an unusual set up on its oil filter element. If you look at the filter you will see one end has a rubber sealing on it, whilst the other end does not. When you fit the filter element, the rubber ended end must be on the outside, away from the engine and into the cap you take off to replace the element. If you dont know it, it is easy to think ...


2

I had the same it was easy. I differed in just using a 3mm and then 7.5mm drill bit, the stud (screw) is M8. So it just fell out during drilling. Strike center of circle with punch to guide drill Drill straight, cutting fluid helps, HSS drill or better (HSS is ok it is soft) Use an M8 tapper (from tap and dye set same pitch as your replacement bolt) cut ...


2

I have been filling in coolant once every three days. wondering if this ok to get by for few more months? You can probably get by with this, but realize that if the thermostat housing is cracked and leaking, it could easily crack further, causing faster/greater loss of coolant at any time. By not doing the fix, you could end up trashing the whole engine if ...


2

Not to confuse things but Part Info lists the NKG 90223 (PLZKBR7B8DG) as an analogue plug to the Beru 12ZR6SP2. As Paulster2 points out, the Rxx indicates the chassis information, not the engine. I have a R55 (2012 Clubman) with the L4 1.6L N16B16A engine. I called NKG and they confirmed that the 90223 is suitable for my engine. They are pre-gapped at ...


2

The Sparkplug.com reference site says there are only three sparkplugs which will work in place of the Beru 12ZR-6SP2: BMW 12122158165 BMW 2158165 NGK PLZKBR7A-G


2

No. Damaged engines make funny noises and are down on power. Low oil will cause a bit of a rattle, and you should find where your oil is going. Most leaks are slow, see if there are fresh oil stains where you regularly park.


2

There are a couple of things here. First, the small puddle under your car is more than likely just water coming off of the A/C condenser. I speculate this is what it is due to there not being any smell to the liquid puddle. This is completely normal. On the flip side though, when the mechanic said you "need a new thermostat" because the housing was leaking, ...


2

sounds like your thermostat is stuck open. I would check this first. You might be able to squeeze the hose going to the radiator and see if you can feel water passing, while the engine is just started and still cold. You should feel very little to none. If you feel a lot then most likely the thermostat is open when your engine is cold which is not good. ...


2

My MINI was making the same kind of rattly sounds. I took it into the dealer thinking it was the infamous timing chain tensioner failure. It ended up being that it was 3 quarts low and I was losing about a quart every two weeks to the infamous turbo oil intake leak. I never saw oil on the ground. Get it fixed! It's PITA to get to the engine side of the ...


2

The R53 is a Getrag GS6 and has a 25% locking limited slip. If I'm not mistaken, it is a clutch-type. As far as a lack of information, you'll quickly find that most MINI owners just don't care what's in the car, just how expensive it is. ;)


1

It sounds to me as though the temperature sensor is giving out a valid but incorrect reading so that the ECU of the car is incorrectly calculating throttle position against fuel requirements. I'd personally start by investigating the voltage when cold of the temperature sender unit.


1

Start with plugs and wires. Especially if they've never been replaced, they are almost certainly causing your current problems. You can test the wires with a multimeter and visual inspection of the spark plugs can tell you a lot(you can give that a google, or we have a question here about what plugs are supposed to look like).


1

So I took the top heat shield off again tonight and let the engine run for a few minutes. No smoke at all. So it must have been crud on the heat shield burning off. Bad news is that the return line is still leaking and burning oil. It's off to the shop for now. Anyone looking to do this job should be prepared for a full day of work and definitely buy a ...


1

The OBD port on some newer cars is connected to a 'gateway'. Sometimes it is a standalone device (like (VW) or sometimes it is in the instrument cluster or another CAN node. This is because there can be multiple CAN buses in one vehicle. It sounds like the BMWs is also connected to a gateway rather than directly connected to CAN Bus but i'll check this out ...


1

Your engine gets damaged/wears every time you start the car. Because it takes a short while for the oil pressure to build up. Of course if you do not have enough oil, damage will be continuous since oil pressure can't build up. If the engine is damaged badly, you would hear unusual sounds even after correcting the oil problem. But even if everything is ...


1

One other thing that may be the problem is that the water pump could have locked up. If the pump was running off of the timing belt/chain then it could have seized. This could have jammed the belt, and locked the engine. This could cause the valves to stop moving, while the pistons carry on. This causes the pistons to smash into the valves which could ...


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