Hot answers tagged

5

If it's only the last half inch I doubt it's the clutch disc splines - the splines would have much more engagement depth than 1/2". However, the disc needs to be clamped accurately to about 50 thousandths centricity to make certain the bevel on the input shaft tip can enter the pilot bearing. Like @Paulster2 mentioned, pilot bearing is far more likely, and ...


3

More than likely you did what is commonly referred to as smoking the clutch. What this means is you overheated it a little. This caused the smell you referred to. More than likely you've caused a little bit of damage to the clutch, but nothing the car won't live with. If you do this over and over again, then you'll create a bigger issue. One of the big ...


3

You're getting an intermittent signal to the tach from the ECU or the tach sensor. If the tach comes from the ECU (which it seems to after a bit of Googling, but I don't know Miatas well enough to be sure I'm reading what I find accurately), then the sensor side is probably good since the ECU will be using the sensor for engine control and it sounds like ...


3

Here is a thread where somebody else ran into the same problem https://www.reddit.com/r/Miata/comments/2br1j7/popping_sway_bar_end_link/ Did you purchase Moog end links by chance? It looks like they might have a manufacturing problem with this part.


3

Since this is a rear wheel drive vehicle, you should check the drive line and U-joints. It could be if one of the U-joints is worn out, it gets off center slightly and causes the drive line to vibrate at the given speed. Since it does happen at a given speed, the other logical thing to check would be to have the tires rebalanced for a higher speed. Most any ...


3

I've known friends repair soft top damage like this using a tent repair kit purchased from a camping shop. These are pre-glued patches that cover the tear. A lot less ugly than either stitching and gluing or gaffer tape. Also, they stay stuck after the hood has been raised and lowered a few times. They aren't perfect, you can still see the repair, but ...


2

The most likely causes of a problem like this are: A failed bulb. A poor or failed earth (this often results in the wrong lamp lighting up) A broken wire in the harness. Checking the bulb should always be your first task, as these are cheap and (usually) easy to replace. Tracking down poor earths or broken wires requires a bit of work, a multimeter and ...


2

The single most important thing you can do is to do regular oil and filter changes. I suggest doing it every 5k miles at most. Other than that, make sure your air intake and fuel injectors are good. If you have traction control, get someone to turn it down a bit to allow more wheelspin. This will ease the strain on your transmission. And if you notice ...


2

Here's an article explaining a basic generic Drive Cycle Since you'll want to be as efficient as possible, you should follow the procedure provided by the Manufacturer. That procedure is listed below. Mazda Drive Cycle Pre-requisites: MIL off and no DTCs present (this is where clearing your codes comes in); fuel level between 15 and 85%; all accessories ...


2

Assuming that the oil under the car is engine oil - it should be somewhere between honey colored and black (in which case you really need an oil change). If it is more red or pink, then it is most likely PS fluid. If it's engine oil that's leaking - as evidenced by the low oil level - you have two separate issues as engine oil level won't cause a steering ...


1

I've considered using an Arduino for automotive stuff also. The ECU and sensors all work on 5v, so that system will be easy to tap into. I would be looking at the cam / crank / distributor signal. Not sure what your vehicle uses. You can crank the engine in a way that it will not start (disconnect coil wire, remove fuse for the fuel pump, etc.) to ...


1

I agree. Most likely you were riding the clutch. It'll smell gross, not like a typical burning smell. It's common with hillstarts because people tend to stress about either dropping the clutch too suddenly (and stalling), and/or rolling backwards. Basically, when you release the clutch pedal - the clutch plate and the pressure plate become interlocked. To ...


1

Your car is pre obd2 which means there probably is no way to reliably look up what the computer is reading and what it is putting out to the gauge. So this can be a few things: It could be a loose wire. best way to isolate this is drive over a sharp small speed bump or 2x4 quickly and see if it reliably causes your gauge to fluctuate. it could be the RPM ...


1

Leaks in the evaporative system can be challenging to find. A "large leak" can be a hole as small as .040" in diameter. Common leaks on this model are: Fuel Filler Cap Canister Drain Cut Valve (CDCV) also called the Canister Vent Valve Purge Solenoid/Valve Pressure sensor Testing is most commonly done by filling the system with smoke from a smoke ...


1

I opened the engine again, and found out that it wasn't leaking from the camshaft this time, but from the crankshaft. That was the only thing that I didn't replace in the first place. So, the advice here is, when you start replacing gaskets and seals of a system, replace all the involving gaskets and seals. I hope that will help someone with similar ...


1

Obviously the answer was to bleed the master/slave hydraulics.


Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible