11

I don't know if I deserve all this credit. My idea was sound, but my measurements were pretty bad so my numbers are way off. If you try this, use the more precise software that Robert S. Barnes ended up using and don't rely on a YouTube video to measure a belt spinning at 200 RPM! In your first video, the timing belt is going through 1 revolution per ...


7

Basically, the spray pattern should be conical and even, without streaming, dripping, or uneven spray occurring. This ensures the fuel is atomizing as much as possible. Here is a granular image which shows what a multi-port injector (like yours) should look like: You should be looking at 3rd from the left. From your image on the other question, I'm not ...


6

My guess is bad radiator cap. The cap has two sealing systems. One that holds high pressure (13 to 15 psi). Water at 13 psi doesn't boil until 245 Deg F it so. The other sealing system is the overflow return. As the engine cools down this allows coolant from the overflow to return to the radiator. My guess is that little valve is stuck open. I'm also ...


5

You'd backprobe the S and L terminals with the connector plugged in. So attach one end to a ground point and the other to the S or L terminal. Basically the S terminal is the Field terminal. The S wire gets power from the eng inj fuse and should have 14+V while the engine is running. The alternator grounds the L terminal when voltage is below threshold and ...


4

You probably need a new lambda sensor. Here's why: You're right - the lambda sensor needs to reach a certain operating temperature to function properly. Until it reaches that operating temperature, the engine ECU will assume open-loop operation and not rely on the sensor's signal to determine whether the engine is running rich or lean. Your tests and data ...


4

Good example of PID graphing. Consider the possibility that these symptoms are caused by a mixture issue instead of timing. The STFT is adding fuel and the symptom of hesitation further suggests that the mixture is lean. It is likely that if O2(B1S1) and INJ PID's were included these would show a lean O2 with a corresponding lengthening of injector on time....


4

So I went out today and ran the fuel pump for a few seconds with the return line clamped off and saw that the amperage draw went up to 5.85 amps and the sound of flowing fuel stopped. At first I just figured the fuel pressure regulator must be stuck open / bad and that's why I'm seeing a jump in amperage from the 4.3 amps I was seeing ( which I also saw at ...


3

This is a bit of a shot in the dark, but I'm going to point my finger at the tensioner spring. To me, the sound in the video is very... dull. Kind of thudy for lack of a better term. It sound like one of the pulleys is not having the teeth align quite right which is causing the belt teeth to slap into the groove. The thing is that the belt can appear ...


3

Realistically I'd redo your test using a little more accurate of a timing sequence. Two things to really make it more accurate: Use some sort of stopwatch (apps for cell phones are free). Doing so will ensure you are getting the time you are looking towards. Right now you are guessing you are using the exact same time. Human nature tells me we cannot get ...


3

From the looks of it, you're going about your compression test incorrectly. You should rotate the engine, using the starter, for the same number of revolutions with each cylinder. This will give you a truer tale of what's going on. Usually 4-5 revolutions gets the job done. The reason you want the same amount of revolutions for each cylinder is so the tests ...


3

well you either have bad bearings in your tensioner or a really fast telegraph operator in there. Change out that tensioner and its springs which is what should almost always be done when changing belts. the skinny is there are certain things to toss money at and certain things not to. timing belts and associated parts are not something to skimp on. If ...


2

In the end I found two problems. The first was a unusually placed coolant hose which on this engine tee's off from the heater core hose and goes behind the engine under the intake manifold and connects to the base of the oil filter. This hose had sprung a serious leak. As I suspected the culprit seems to have been a thermostat that was stuck closed. You ...


2

In most cars, the fuel system should hold the pressure for quite a while. You shouldn't see a significant drop in fuel pressure after engine/pump shut off. What you are probably experiencing here is leak back at the pump. There should be a check ball or some means to prevent fuel from flowing back through the pump after it's shut off. This ensures fuel ...


2

According to agcoauto.com the length of time that you are supposed to let the fuel flow is 15 seconds. In that period of time, you should have collected at least 1 pint of fuel. However, you should also be watching the pressure to make sure it remains relatively constant. If the pressure hesitates and spurts, the fuel pump will not be able to provide a ...


2

Water pump noise is not common but does happen. Steady tone noise is more common such as groans or squeals. Rhythmic noise is less common. There are three rotating parts in a typical engine water pump. Two standard type ball bearings and a spring loaded seal. The seal has flat faces that slide over each other. The seal material is often ceramic. The seal ...


2

At idle, your EGR valve should be closed (read: not activated), allowing no exhaust gas to get into the intake air. At idle, any exhaust blended in with the fresh air might indeed cause your engine to have a rough RPM. A rough idle combined with a fault code for excessive exhaust flow of your EGR system is a good indicator that it is well worth trying to ...


2

There are two values for the pressure since the maximum pressure is achieved at low or zero flow when the engine is not running and the other when the engine is consuming fuel. It is possible that the pump can deliver maximum pressure at zero flow, but not be capable of supplying fuel at the rate that the engine is using it at the required pressure - 30 to ...


1

So I e-mailed Rockauto about the injector color issue and this is what they said: Hello, All of the information we have on the products we sell is listed on our website. Please see our Help page: Choosing a Part. If you're not seeing the details you are looking for, we do not have them. That also means they are not important for fitment. ...


1

So there are a few things that need answering here: Why the car has a rough idle Why your fuel trims are so negative Why your timing is retarded The rough idle question is the most difficult, so I'll leave that to last. The easiest is probably why the timing is retarded. First of all, the timing on this car is controlled completely by the ECU, so the ECU ...


1

If the car is overheating only when sitting still, it's most likely the cooling fan not working. When you're moving, air is flowing though the radiator, but when you're not, you need the fan to push or pull air through the fins to keep the engine cool. You indicated in the comments that it's got electric fans, and that they do work. You could have failed ...


1

The water pump's impeller fins are corroded and worn down. Blockages in the radiator. Feel the surface of the radiator for cold spots.


1

My 98 Rav 4 would do basically the same thing. Mine turn out to egr valve not closing and opening right. Took it apart cleaned cleaned it good in side and out put it back on no more ideling down under load.


1

Any play in the tension of your belt or loose pulley bearings can cause odd noises. Sometimes shops replace the internals of the alternator and rebuild it. If not done properly they can make all kinds of noises. It's best to determine where exactly the knock is coming from. You should listen as closesly as possible to determine where it's coming from. You ...


1

Make sure your alternator and belt are properly tightened. A loose belt can make all kinds of noises, but mostly a loose alternator, under tension form the belt, will be spinning on an angle, and that's not good.


1

So basically, the problem was shorted out wires in the Cobra alarm system which were causing the alarm system to randomly disconnect the ECU, fuel pump, etc: I'm not going to copy the full answer here, you can read it over on this other question.


1

The thermostat can certainly stick open or closed, but I don't think it'd be the cause of any of your problems. The thermostat only bypasses the the upper radiator hose through which hot coolant from the engine flows to the radiator to be cooled so your engine reaches normal operating temp faster. The lower radiator hose, through which the cooled coolant ...


1

I would check the motor mounts sounds like your may have a cracked one but it could also be that you have a vacuum check valve attached to your Power Brake Booster that has gotten old and needs replacement, or there may be a vacuum leak elswhere check your vacuum hoses.


1

The problem could be due to vacuum or electrical. The breaks are equipped with a vacuum power booster. If the power booster is broken it could induce a very large vacuum leak when you hit the breaks. Try clamping off the hose that is between the power booster and the intake manifold with a set of needle nose vice grips or a hose pinch off tool. If the car ...


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