This is a very common failure in the Nissan's. The part number on the 2001/2002 Model Year MAF Sensor was 22680-6N200. This part has been known for a very high failure rate. It was later superceeded by part numbers 22680-6N201 and 22680-AM600. One of these two parts should be the one that you are ordering for the vehicle. If in any case these are not ...
Your BCM receives the signal
Nissan uses what is called a BCM or body control module.
The BCM on your car controls the following
Security (key fob synchronization, door locks)
There are other attributes as well not on my list but to answer your question, it's the BCM.
For the remote entry receiver see number 11 in the diagram below.
The interior key antenna is located under the center console number 13 and inputs to the body control module seen in number 1 of the diagram.
I found these directions for resetting the SRS after the dash light starts blinking. It is from this website:
Open the driver’s door.
Note the rubber covered button located low on the B pillar, a button which is pressed by the door when the door is closed. This is the Driver’s Door Switch (DDS).
Turn the ignition from OFF to ON.
Press the DDS at least 5 ...
The car manufacturers do this because they want to detect misuses of the engine. If the car has a manual transmission and somebody downshifts at high speed to overrev the engine, it will be recorded into the car computer's memory and thus if the engine suffers damage, the dealership can determine that the reason for the damage was overrevving. Thus, the ...
It sounds like the brake switch is on its way out. This is essentially a solenoid switch which is supposed to disengage the lock on your shifter when you press the brake pedal.
If your Maxima has enough in common with the models I know, there should be a button labeled 'Transmission Lock' next to the shifter that you can press to manually release the lock.
Is it necessary to remove the thermostat since it's going to open when engine reaches temperature?
No, it is not necessary to remove the thermostat. In fact, some cars you don't want to remove the thermostat while running the vehicle. The reason for this is that the thermostat can be used to direct coolant flow. If it is out, parts of the engine may not be ...
Strangely, after about 1500 miles the problem went away. I'm not sure why this is, though I was told by the individual that helped me with the replacement that new pumps sometimes require a "break in" period. I haven't heard that opinion echoed anywhere else, however it seems to have been the case for me... If it changes I will update! Thanks again for ...
Sounds like you had an air bubble trapped in the cooling system after changing the thermostat. Check the coolant level.
(Id also make sure the coolant temp sensor connector is hooked up, maybe it was left unplugged)
You should check if the coolant liquid is between minimum and maximum. If you need to add more liquid, don't mix different liquids colours (I don't remember why). And please be sure it's not hot, else you will get very bad burns and injuries.
Were there any other repairs/maintenance done prior just before the problem started? If not, it sounds like the wrong thermostat has been installed, or the new one is faulty.
What caused you to change the thermostat?
I am not sure how to do it yourself, but companies such as KP Technologies make modules to do almost all of the functions you would like to use.
Note: I am in no way affiliated with this company, nor have I ever tried their product, but I have seen them mentioned on various forums.
There could be. The CVT transmission is a common issue with most Nissan vehicles as the chain in the transmission becomes weak and goes out. I've had it happen before. What I noticed the transmission do was make a wining noise and a hesitation on shifting and acceleration. Before I took my transmission in I noticed fairly higher RPMs before shifts, ...
They probably didn't recharge the system when they were done, check your invoice. Another possibility is that they forgot to plug the compressor clutch back in. You need to remove the A/C compressor when you R&R the alternator on the 3.5. There are ways around having to discharge the A/C like letting it hang and working around the lines, but it's easier ...
There are usually three possible things that I know of that prevent shifting between gears other than internal transmission problems. Hydraulic clutch master or slave cylinder issue or a bad clutch or God forbid all three at the same time.
I am not familiar with Nissan's exact block heater, but am going to give you some general maintenance tips to help you attempt to resolve your issue.
First thing to do is to ensure the plug and cord and undamaged.
These cords are exposed to the elements and often get damaged.
If the cord is ok. Check the prongs for corrosion and use a wire
brush or Scotch ...
Yes, exceeding maximum can be recorded and probably most ecu does this because it does not require rocket science to record a value in ecu.
Im my opinion, ECU would record only if the maximum was exceeded. Otherwise it would need to continuously check if(CURRENT_ENGINE_SPEED > PREVIOUS_MAXIMUM_ENGINE_SPEED) update_value(). Purely from an engineering ...
Heat shields have two purposes. If it is between the floor and the exhaust system it is designed to prevent the heat from warming the floor and possibly melting the carpet. GM had issues in the late 70s with floor pans rusting from the heat of the catalytic converter. If the heat shield is on the bottom of the exhaust it is to prevent the hot exhaust from ...
if it's the rack and pinion, it will most likely leak fluid into the end-boots from over-pressure. You may see fluid drippings over time. It's also possible you have a seized ball joint. That's easy for a mechanic to check.
Nothing should be replaced, if the car has truly been well maintained there should be no immediate concerns with tires, belts, hoses, brakes, fluids, cam chains etc (no more than any other car at least). I would pay attention to the body of the car, rust would be something I'd be eagle eyed for. Looking for signs of rust damage that's been covered up is ...
I'd plan to give the car a full service, and either inspect or, where necessary, replace all of the following:
Cambelt, if fitted, as suggested by @SolarMike (if it's a chain, inspect the chain and tensioner - check with owners clubs/forums to see if there are any known issues with the tensioner)
Coolant hoses, as @Moab says.
Since you asked for people with the same problem:
You can often lose quite some coolant before things get hotter than normal.
I consistently lose some coolant in my car and only since a few days the needle gets a little past normal temperature. The expansion bottle is most of the time almost empty. And this is a british classic car, mind you, they're ...
Start with some basic tests/troubleshooting.
Verify that your clutch master cylinder (located driver's side under the dash usually mounting against the clutch pedal) is not leaking.
Verify that your clutch slave cylinder (it will be mounted on the transmission) is not leaking.
Verify all lines between are not leaking.
If there are no fluid leaks at the ...
DO NOT DRIVE THIS CAR AGAIN UNTIL IT IS FIXED!
What you describe is a major problem. When a car resists moving and forcing it causes smoke, STOP. Continuing to drive it in this condition could cause major damage and/or accident/injury.
Here are a few things it could be;
Dragging brake(s) - calipers may be damaged or corroded causing the piston to stay ...
The installation direction gives a deceptive description. The above pictured tie rod is what you would expect to get (this one is specific to your car). Note the washer. The washer installs between the tie rod and rack. The two tangs in the washer lock into the two holes in the rack (they are pictured in #4 in your picture). Once the tie rod is tight then ...
Returned the maxima to the shop to have them correct it and they said that when they removed the radiator to replace the alternator a connector line came loose for the ac. Problem Resolved....but now there is a tapping or knocking that still knocks at idle and speeds up while moving. It sounds as if a fan blade is hitting something but I don't see anything. ...
That P1800 may be key
This is an elaboration of my comment on how P1800 can explain your observations.
P1800 Nissan - Variable Intake Air System Control Solenoid Valve Circuit
When the engine is running at low or medium speed, the power valve is
fully closed. Under this condition, the effective suction port length
is equivalent to ...
Check the rpms on it when on idle , it sounds like could be loosing power, could be spark plugs, or your ac compressor might be defective and applies a hold down on the engine and causes week air into brake booster n so when u apply brakes+ steer+ ac rpms drop