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11

Being as it's only 0.05mm larger in diameter, you shouldn't have a problem unless you're using that socket on a rattle-gun every day. If it's a 6-point socket, the wear on the nut should be minimal (12-point sockets have more of a chance at 'rounding' the nut). Ideally, however, you should go down to the shop and spend two dollars on the correct sized ...


7

On GMs now adays the Engine Control Module controls the starter relay. It will look for a park/neutral signal from the range switch and a crank signal from the ignition switch/Body Control Module. A break down of the starter relay terminals. If you pull the relay you'll see it's labeled on the bottom and has a diagram on the side. 85 - ECM sends power to ...


6

I have had this problem with one of my vehicles as well. It usually has to do with the fillhose vent tube/breather tube being blocked or not working properly. This inhibits air pressure from being released from the tank as you are filling it. This will cause air to travel backwards through the fill tube and cause the pump to shut off as it senses fuel ...


5

It does depend on the car. As Hillsons says, it might be a faulty gauge or sender, but it might also be the nature of the filler neck, as some designs don't flow well, resulting in the neck filling with fuel before the tank has - I had a car recently where you had to fill it at half-speed otherwise the pump would be constantly clicking off. Others I've seen ...


5

Rest assured that gas pumps don't use magic to stop. When gasoline reaches the top of your tank all the way to the end of the pump nozzle, it covers a valve within the pump nozzel that shuts off the pump mechanically. So in all likelihood, gasoline has filled your tank by the time it trips the pump. The chances that both the gas stations you visited have ...


5

Find the location of your heater valve, and see what the temperatures are like on both sides. Might just need a new heater valve, which allows coolant to flow to heater.


5

It sounds to me like the previous owner suspected an outer CV joint (which was my first thought when you described the problem) and changing it didn't fix the issue. I would double check that the outer CV joints look new and there is a good chance the problem could relate to one of the inner CV joints. Diagnosing the problem will likely be a case of ...


5

You should definitely try to extract it. Preparation: Heat the manifold with a blowtorch Jolt the bolt with a pin punch Soak the bolt with bp-blaster or another penetrating oil Removal If the bolt is protruding: Place two nuts on it, counter them against each other and try to screw the bolt out. If the bolt is protruding but not enough for the two nuts: ...


5

Looking at the video, it appears to be an electrical problem. It looks like the main power leads are losing their continuity when you turn the key to activate the starter. This issue could be ANYWHERE along the main lines of your power cables. Mainly four points to look at: (+) connection at battery and at starter; (-) connection at the battery and grounding ...


4

Can you disconnect the battery without upsetting the car's electrics? (You should be able to on a car of that age, but some newer cars or cars with fancy alarms can get upset) If so, remove one terminal and connect the multimeter, set to ammeter mode, in series with it. DO NOT attempt to start the car like this (best to leave the keys well clear of the ...


4

If you can find it the factory service manual is best way to go. It will cost you a little more but it is much more detailed. http://www.helminc.com is where I have bought several.


3

The first thing to do is too take the EGR out of circuit. A quick and easy way to do this is to cut an old metal oil can(its thin enough for scissors) so you have a piece of the can that will fit between the bolts of the EGR. Tighten the EGR bolts up with the can acting as a gasket. Now try watching the MAF sensor voltage as you rev the engine sharply and ...


3

2 miles isn't enough for some cars to heat up, is this the first time this has happened? First, check your coolant level, cold and hot. If it's good, You likely need a new thermostat, the piece that controls the flow of coolant to the radiator. If that doesn't fix it, then check the heater valve as FossilizedCarlos mentioned.


3

Maybe. If you get the glove box out out the way, if you have one it will probably be accessible through the space it usually occupies. Don't break the glove box, you'll need to disengage whatever mechanism is holding it in the open position when you release the latch. According to the manufacturer service schedule or whenever it's filthy / clogged. ...


3

When this happens, the first thing to do is buy a Voltmeter. Test the battery (or lug it to the autostore where they can test it for free.) If you have the correct battery and the battery is resting at 12.6 V. The next thing to look at are the terminals and posts. Are they clean, if not buy a wire brush, baking soda wear kitchen gloves or get some ...


3

Here's how it breaks down. The stock tires have a rolling diameter of about 24.4 inches (assuming a rolling diameter of 97 percent of the specified diameter, which is typical for passenger car tires). The 195/65 tires have a rolling diameter of about 24.23 inches, or about 3/4 of a percent less than the stock tires. Clearance-wise that's a non-issue. Your ...


2

If you've got a one of the big locksmith companies in town, I'd try them. There's a number of options that may be available to them that might not be to the dealer.


2

I forgot to answer this. I found the actuator behind the globebox door. It was actually very easy to install once I found it!


2

Sounds like there might more than one blend door. I guess you're looking for the heater blend door? Have you gone through chevymalibuforum.com? From this, you might be able to get at it through the glovebox? When all else fails, consult the factory service manual. Unfortunately, in your case, it's $200 new. They sometimes turn up on ebay, but it looks ...


2

I think you're getting the 'cal err' because your radio lost power. Hopefully you've just got some corroded/loose battery terminals. Try cleaning and tightening them and see if that gets you going. I've seen vehicles act this way due to a loose battery terminal. If that's not it, you've possibly got a problem somewhere in the wiring harness, possibly a ...


2

I've got a mitsubishi, so it's a different car, but there is a motor that opens and closes the heater door. It's going out, so sometimes I can hear it click and either engage/disengage when I turn the heat dial, so it's an erratic problem. Could be something similar on your car. Right now it's not engaging, so it's blowing cold air, even though the heater ...


2

When trouble shooting a cranks but won't run condition it comes down to three things Fuel, Fire, or Mechanical Fuel - Spray either or starting fluid into the air intake while trying to crank the vehicle. You may have fuel pressure but not enough, this will rule out a fuel problem. If it runs you have a fuel problem if it doesn't you don't. Fire - Check to ...


2

Could this really be a manufacturing defect? Could this be a defect in the part which was put on your car? Possibly, but not probable. When cars are put together they are put through a lot of different tests to ensure parts are put on correctly and are done correctly. Union people tend to take pride in their work ... at least lately they seem to be. I would ...


2

You may want to check with the dealer, I have 2011 cruz and have had similar issues with it. I used my scan tool and oscilloscope to find that the ECM had my coils out of time. I suspected something else must be causing this. I eventually got tired of complaining to them. They called me up and said they would put an ECM in it and see if that would fix since ...


2

After consulting some online databases (google.com), special dealer equipment is needed to program the remote for a 2012 Malibu. Some GM cars to have a manual procedure to learn remotes, but this doesn't appear to be one of them.


2

There's a few possible culprits from your description. Just to cover all the bases: test your battery voltage, it needs to be above 12.6V for a healthy battery, above 11.8V to start a car. Since you've been having trouble, give the battery a boost before testing have your ignition switch tested, it may not be making good electrical contact test your fuel ...


2

After a lot of research, I decided to start by trying a pair of vice-grips on what was left of the stud. I cranked them down real tight, and it came right out. If that didn't work I'd have been going down the route of drilling, welding, or other more terrible options.


2

This sounds like one or more of the wheelnuts or lug nuts have come off and the remaining ones are loose. Get this checked and have new nuts fitted as necessary. The studs will need checking as well. Do contact the place that fitted the tires as they may have left them loose. It could, however, be that someone was stealing your rims and were disturbed - ...


1

This is because bacteria live in your condition system, I'm from the EU so I can't recommend you a good cleaner for air condition systems, but I think in any good shop the salesman will recommend. And replace the air cabin filter. It's good sometimes before turn off car turn on heater to max for some seconds to dry possible condensate (where bacteria lives)....


1

That sounds like normal behavior. Under load, most cars will disengage the A/C compressor clutch to provide more power for acceleration.


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