30

It's usually possible to restore any car as long as you have the appropriate knowledge, tools, money and time to do so. As others have mentioned, you may want to consider if it's worth it to fix a car that wouldn't be worth much even if it is running. I'm currently restoring a 1976 Fiat 124 that hadn't ran in around 10 years, sitting outside in the rain ...


23

I restored a 1981 Mk1 Golf some years ago. It was an abandoned project and came with the engine in the boot, no interior and no front wings. Total cost to put back on the road was around £550 (GBP) around 8 years ago and total effort was around two to three months of working on it evenings and weekend at a fairly relaxed pace. Without more details it's ...


21

I'd just disconnect the negative, personally. I'd also recommend having a look at some of the questions and answers on here about storing vehicles for a long time: Long-term-storage As these may give you other useful advice - for example, jacking it up so you don't get flat spots on the tyres.


18

Use the jumper battery to start the engine, then disconnect it and leave the engine running (with no current drain such as lights, heater fan, radio, etc). The car should charge its own battery to 80% charge in about two hours (assuming the battery and alternator are in good condition; the battery may be damaged by being uncharged for so long, but I've never ...


18

As has already been noted, anything rubber will have perished and will need replacing, as will all the fluids and any other normal perishable items (brakes, battery, filters etc). The brakes will have siezed on, and depending how dry the garage was, the interior may have mould and the bodyshell may have gone rusty... The biggest risk, however, is that the ...


13

Like @Alex said, ideally, drive it at least half hour each time. Less than that and you won't have enough heat/time to burn off all the condensation in the engine (you'll get a yellow gooey substance under your oil filler cap to let you know if that's the case). You'd want to have it driven at least once a week to keep oil on the cylinder walls (to prevent ...


13

I would put the battery, with it still connected to the vehicle, on a trickle charger. This is because you will lose all the computer stored settings, and that may be a problem. I did this, but for a shorter period of time, with a small (up to 10amps) charger on a time switch. I kept it down to 2 hours a day and it worked fine.


12

Lead acid type batteries, such as this, like to be charged very slowly. Under 5 amps for many hours would be best. During fast charging the internals overheat and electrolyte can boil. Best to charge slowly if time allows. This type battery has its worst damage happen when it is stored discharged. The chemistry in this state is more acidic. This acid ...


12

Yes it can run again, but is it worth it. Edmunds show a poor condition 1992 as worth about $650, where as a very good condition is around $2000. With your posting that it has rust above the wheel wells (not knowing how bad that is) it would likely need a respray after patching the metal. If your a do it yourself person cost can be fairly low but to to have ...


9

A @FredWilson says, you need to charge it slowly - either by driving it around or by using a trickle charger. If you can get a trickle charger with a 'maintenance mode', you can leave it permanently attached to the car and it will keep the battery topped up and stop it going flat in the first place. If possible, I'd also recommend finding someone you trust ...


9

I recommend to everyone I know to run your generator or other small equipment dry before storage. The main purpose of this is to get all of the ethanol based fuel out of carburetor and fuel bowl. Ethanol has a propensity of gumming things up and can leave a lot of varnish over time. This tends to plug orifices needed for proper fuel metering while running, ...


8

This is quite variable - if you have a highly tuned car, it makes sense to drive it frequently to ensure oil covers all parts, as otherwise those tight tolerances add up to wear and tear, whereas a big engine that isn't tuned may cope just fine. As an example: TVR's are an amazing English sports car, but they do have a stereotype which is that they always ...


8

Running it for a few minutes is way to short. It will kill the battery and the oil will degrade. It's better to take it for a half hour drive every few weeks to recharge the battery, avoid 'square' tyres and to keep the oil and hoses in good condition.


8

Hi to those starting engines which have been sitting "idle" for more than three months. We recently started a 190e Benz which had not been started for more than 6 months. First step was to check condition and level of all fluids (engine oil, trans fluid, coolant, power steering, brake fluid and battery acid). We then checked drive belts and battery ...


8

The difference is smarts. A trickle charger provides a constant current all the time. It does not know whether the battery is charged or discharged. A battery tender is smart. It will charge the battery only when it needs charged. After it's done charging it will shut off and monitor the battery state. When it sees the battery get to something like 80% (...


8

There is no problem with an engine sitting with an empty sump - after standing for a few days the oil will all have run back down to the sump and so won't be doing anything anyway. I'm afraid I'm going to have to agree with Solar Mike too - one of the first things you learn (usually the hard way!) with car restoration is the need to balance the difficulty ...


7

Put it on a trickle charger. This will keep the battery topped up and replace the charge used to keep the alarm etc going. Mains-powered chargers can be found very cheaply from any motor factors, or from chains such as Maplins and Halfords. If your parking space is too far from a power source for that, you can also get solar powered ones, although with ...


6

Your best (easiest/cleanest) bet is to replace the master/slave cylinder assembly. The main part of play here is lack of use. What happens is seals dry out and when you then subsequently use the clutch, extra wear is put on the seal, which allows it to wear much quicker. You can avoid this situation by driving the car at least once a month until the entire ...


6

Storing a car for 5 months shouldn't be a problem, and you're probably going to be better off NOT starting it. I just parked my car, and it's going to sit until April - and I've been doing that for about the last 10 years with no adverse affects. To prepare, fill the tank with gas, add some gas stabilizer, and drive it for a few miles. You do not want to ...


6

A decent battery should last 4 weeks, at least it does in dutch weather, with temperatures above -5 degrees celsius. If it doesn't, on older cars, you can simply unplug the + connector from the battery. To be safe, make sure the loose cable doesn't make an electrical connection with other parts of the car. On newer cars (say after 2005), disconnecting the ...


6

Are you trying to keep your battery from discharging? Are you worried about a parasitic drain? Or are you worried about temperature? A better choice for long-term storage might be a battery tender. That will keep the battery up to the right level without overcharging.


5

I store my Camaro every winter (for the past 8 years). Each year my car starts with no issues. I'd look into places that store classic cars, and I would not start the car during those five months (moisture can build in the exhaust). My advice is similar to the above. Buy fuel stabilizer (I buy Stabil, though any brand will likely do the trick) and pour ...


5

You'll almost certainly need a new battery to start with, and the tyres might have developed flat spots. The brake discs will have a layer of rust, but as you're in a dry environment, they shouldn't be too bad, so should clean up the first time you use them (carefully!). Before starting the engine, take the plugs out and turn it by hand to make sure it's ...


4

Keep negative terminal of your battery detached from battery's terminal. You may get the desired result.


4

It depends on the vehicle, why it is being left, and how it is prepared before being left. If it's a vehicle that's in reasonably regular use, then I'd recommend making sure it's used at least once every week or so, and is driven far enough for the engine to get up to full operating temperature. Just starting it and letting it run is better than nothing (e....


4

Change every liquid - oil, transmission fluid, brake fluid, power steering fluid, differential fluid, washer fluid, blinker fluid (in Utah, this often runs out on cars I see on the road). Drain the fuel tank, and put decent gas in. Full service - spark plugs, air filters, belts, check the brake pads, disks and drums. Check all hoses under the hood. And ...


4

Leaving a car for several months is quite common amongst classic car owners over here, quite a few of whom take their classics off the road during the winter (although I prefer to use mine all year round). The best approach, as mentioned in the other answers is to get someone to give it a good drive every couple of weeks, but failing that, I believe the ...


4

For lawnmowers and power equipment, gasoline can go bad in as few as 30 days. Always drain your tank before winter or add a fuel stabilizer which will prolong your gasoline life up to 12 months.


4

If your battery completely self-discharges in 4 weeks, you should consider changing it. A good battery stays in shape for at least a couple of months, even with the ground cable connected. If your battery is good, you should have your car checked. Drawing so much current as to empty the battery in 4 weeks is not normal, and may indicate a serious electrical ...


4

Agree with everything in Nick C's answer, also: Do a full service as well, especially all filters ESPECIALLY the air filter; In Australia where there is all kinds of critters that would have been eating it! Drain the petrol and get new stuff in there. 2 years is too long. See How long does it take for gas to go bad? I'd recommend going ahead and ...


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