22

I restored a 1981 Mk1 Golf some years ago. It was an abandoned project and came with the engine in the boot, no interior and no front wings. Total cost to put back on the road was around £550 (GBP) around 8 years ago and total effort was around two to three months of working on it evenings and weekend at a fairly relaxed pace. Without more details it's ...


22

I'd just disconnect the negative, personally. I'd also recommend having a look at some of the questions and answers on here about storing vehicles for a long time: Long-term-storage As these may give you other useful advice - for example, jacking it up so you don't get flat spots on the tyres.


22

Cars are routinely left parked for three to six months or more without running, with no ill effects. I wouldn't hesitate to jump it and see if it'll start. As @BrianKnoblauch comments below, jumping a completely flat battery risks the alternator. The risk can be ameliorated by using a battery charger first, or leaving the jump battery and the to-be-jumped ...


18

Use the jumper battery to start the engine, then disconnect it and leave the engine running (with no current drain such as lights, heater fan, radio, etc). The car should charge its own battery to 80% charge in about two hours (assuming the battery and alternator are in good condition; the battery may be damaged by being uncharged for so long, but I've never ...


13

I would put the battery, with it still connected to the vehicle, on a trickle charger. This is because you will lose all the computer stored settings, and that may be a problem. I did this, but for a shorter period of time, with a small (up to 10amps) charger on a time switch. I kept it down to 2 hours a day and it worked fine.


12

Lead acid type batteries, such as this, like to be charged very slowly. Under 5 amps for many hours would be best. During fast charging the internals overheat and electrolyte can boil. Best to charge slowly if time allows. This type battery has its worst damage happen when it is stored discharged. The chemistry in this state is more acidic. This acid ...


11

Yes it can run again, but is it worth it. Edmunds show a poor condition 1992 as worth about $650, where as a very good condition is around $2000. With your posting that it has rust above the wheel wells (not knowing how bad that is) it would likely need a respray after patching the metal. If your a do it yourself person cost can be fairly low but to to have ...


9

Hi to those starting engines which have been sitting "idle" for more than three months. We recently started a 190e Benz which had not been started for more than 6 months. First step was to check condition and level of all fluids (engine oil, trans fluid, coolant, power steering, brake fluid and battery acid). We then checked drive belts and battery ...


9

I recommend to everyone I know to run your generator or other small equipment dry before storage. The main purpose of this is to get all of the ethanol based fuel out of carburetor and fuel bowl. Ethanol has a propensity of gumming things up and can leave a lot of varnish over time. This tends to plug orifices needed for proper fuel metering while running, ...


9

A @FredWilson says, you need to charge it slowly - either by driving it around or by using a trickle charger. If you can get a trickle charger with a 'maintenance mode', you can leave it permanently attached to the car and it will keep the battery topped up and stop it going flat in the first place. If possible, I'd also recommend finding someone you trust ...


8

The difference is smarts. A trickle charger provides a constant current all the time. It does not know whether the battery is charged or discharged. A battery tender is smart. It will charge the battery only when it needs charged. After it's done charging it will shut off and monitor the battery state. When it sees the battery get to something like 80% (...


8

This is quite variable - if you have a highly tuned car, it makes sense to drive it frequently to ensure oil covers all parts, as otherwise those tight tolerances add up to wear and tear, whereas a big engine that isn't tuned may cope just fine. As an example: TVR's are an amazing English sports car, but they do have a stereotype which is that they always ...


8

There is no problem with an engine sitting with an empty sump - after standing for a few days the oil will all have run back down to the sump and so won't be doing anything anyway. I'm afraid I'm going to have to agree with Solar Mike too - one of the first things you learn (usually the hard way!) with car restoration is the need to balance the difficulty ...


8

If you have the ability and access to some tools, remove the battery and bring it to your local national auto parts chain ie: AutoZone, AdvanceAuto Parts, Oreillys etc. You may want to call first to see how they are handling this during Covid. They will charge and test the battery to determine its condition generally for free. This will take several hours or ...


7

I store my Camaro every winter (for the past 8 years). Each year my car starts with no issues. I'd look into places that store classic cars, and I would not start the car during those five months (moisture can build in the exhaust). My advice is similar to the above. Buy fuel stabilizer (I buy Stabil, though any brand will likely do the trick) and pour ...


7

One thing I would do is check all the fluid levels before starting it, even if only to drive it to get it serviced. Also the tyres may need some air. My brake discs rust easily in our wet climate, so I know after even a few weeks to be wary of them at first. A few uses from very slow will tell you if they're OK and getting back to normal. As I commented, ...


6

Your best (easiest/cleanest) bet is to replace the master/slave cylinder assembly. The main part of play here is lack of use. What happens is seals dry out and when you then subsequently use the clutch, extra wear is put on the seal, which allows it to wear much quicker. You can avoid this situation by driving the car at least once a month until the entire ...


6

Are you trying to keep your battery from discharging? Are you worried about a parasitic drain? Or are you worried about temperature? A better choice for long-term storage might be a battery tender. That will keep the battery up to the right level without overcharging.


5

You'll almost certainly need a new battery to start with, and the tyres might have developed flat spots. The brake discs will have a layer of rust, but as you're in a dry environment, they shouldn't be too bad, so should clean up the first time you use them (carefully!). Before starting the engine, take the plugs out and turn it by hand to make sure it's ...


5

As you have already said, place the battery on a tender. Fill the gas tank completely. This prevents moisture from accumulating in the tank. They also make fuel stabilizer (Sta-bil is a common one) that you can add to the topped-off tank. It's not really needed for 12 months of storage, but it's cheap insurance. Placing the car on jack stands will take the ...


4

It depends on the vehicle, why it is being left, and how it is prepared before being left. If it's a vehicle that's in reasonably regular use, then I'd recommend making sure it's used at least once every week or so, and is driven far enough for the engine to get up to full operating temperature. Just starting it and letting it run is better than nothing (e....


4

For lawnmowers and power equipment, gasoline can go bad in as few as 30 days. Always drain your tank before winter or add a fuel stabilizer which will prolong your gasoline life up to 12 months.


4

If your battery completely self-discharges in 4 weeks, you should consider changing it. A good battery stays in shape for at least a couple of months, even with the ground cable connected. If your battery is good, you should have your car checked. Drawing so much current as to empty the battery in 4 weeks is not normal, and may indicate a serious electrical ...


4

I used to take my 1986 CJ-7 off the road 6 months each year when I was in college during the winter. My grandfather, who was a mechanic in the Marines, had me do the following each time: Fill the gas tank, put in gas stabilizer and run the engine for ~10 minutes. Drain & replace the oil, replace the filter. Disconnect the battery and bring it in the ...


4

The last thing you want to do is have someone drive your car every few weeks. What's important is that the last time you drove your car before putting it to sleep for five months is that you drove at least 15-18 miles on the highway, long enough to get the oil hot enough to stave off water vapor/condensation, which forms carbonic acid, sludge, varnish. ...


4

Change every liquid - oil, transmission fluid, brake fluid, power steering fluid, differential fluid, washer fluid, blinker fluid (in Utah, this often runs out on cars I see on the road). Drain the fuel tank, and put decent gas in. Full service - spark plugs, air filters, belts, check the brake pads, disks and drums. Check all hoses under the hood. And ...


4

Agree with everything in Nick C's answer, also: Do a full service as well, especially all filters ESPECIALLY the air filter; In Australia where there is all kinds of critters that would have been eating it! Drain the petrol and get new stuff in there. 2 years is too long. See How long does it take for gas to go bad? I'd recommend going ahead and ...


4

The fuel stabilizer actually separates from the gasoline after you let it sit for a while and forms a film on top separating the air from the gas, preventing the gas from oxidizing and picking up moisture from the air.


3

If your rebuilding the engine then that will simplify issue related to seals in the engine going bad. But it is best to still put in all fresh oils into it for storage as oxides can form from old oil more then newer oils. You should crank the engine over (not needed to start it) every 6-12 months while in storage. Place the motorcycle up on blocks, old ...


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