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What you are more than likely seeing is condensation from your A/C unit. The drain for these are usually located on the passenger side of the car about where the firewall is at (just behind the engine). This is completely normal.
10
I fixed a leak in my coolant tank (which is the exact same plastic) using a few strips of plastic* cut from a spray bottle I bought at a hardware store. You can either use a heat gun or a soldering iron to melt the plastic into place. Just be careful of burning the plastic.
This video is a good guide. Even though it's a much larger tank, the technique is ...
9
They may not have bled your cooling system properly
As a possibility, if you had air trapped in your cooling system it would expand as the engine approached operating temperature.
It would eventually, hopefully, make it's way into your radiator where the air would get released into the overflow tank by a valve that opens with higher pressures.
As the ...
9
The left descending pipe is (or comes from) the exhaust manifold, and ends in a two-bolt flange. The flange bolts to a matching flange on the front end of the exhaust pipe, which runs aft from the flanged connection towards the rear of the car, undoubtedly through a muffler (or two).
Gaskets in such high-heat environments are often made of metal; this one ...
8
Seeing as how your car has a turbo, the only place it would be leaking and you'd hear a ticking noise is pre-turbo, so the exhaust manifold at the head (header) and the down pipe on the hot side to the turbo. The turbo, due to it's nature of homogenizing the exhaust flow, will pretty much eliminate any ticking noise which may be due to an exhaust leak. While ...
8
The oil seen is from the block to cylinder head gasket seam. This is a nearly universal problem on Subaru 4 cylinder engines from the late 1990s well into the 2000's. The average mileage that this is noticed is just under 100k miles. Oil seeps out at first and then the leak slowly worsens. It rarely, but can, develop in to a large leak requiring immediate ...
7
I appears to be coming from the front and the center of the engine. I could be a hose near the water pump. The water pump itself may have failed. Most water pumps have a weep hole that drips when the seals fail. It is on the bottom of the pimp and difficult to see. You may be able to feel it by reaching under the pump, it is a small hole about half the ...
7
I would never ignore a worn tie rod; you could be driving down the road, hit a serious bump, and suddenly lose your ability to steer in a straight line, or worse. If you have the the tie rod replaced, I doubt that any reputable mechanic would tackle that without also repairing the power steering rack. I personally would never ignore any kind of steering ...
7
It depends on whether you are paying him to rebuild the replacement engine, or to just fit it as it is...
7
This NIH (National Institutes of Health) Study monitoring CO inside the cabin of a vehicle during commutes over an extended period has some pretty interesting data.
From the study
the mean CO concentration was 9.8 ppm, with a standard deviation of 5.8 ppm
Here is another study Here is another study that reflects older data ('80's and '90's) sampled ...
7
JB Weld is gasoline resistant.
I would disassemble the carburetor and inspect suspicious cracked components prior to applying any epoxy to the surfaces.
Ensure components are absolutely clean
inspect gasket surfaces for anomalies and remediate any issues you find
validate suspected cracks
Back when I used to do this sort of thing to keep something on the ...
7
The easiest way is to check is to jack the wheel up (put it on a jackstand), take the wheel off, clean off the affected areas with brake cleaner, then have a second person push on the brake pedal hard to observe where the leak is coming from.
If the fluid is up onto the brake line, I'd suggest this is actually the source of your leak. It could also be ...
7
Getting them to break loose is the biggest challenge.
I use a good penetrate, soak them several times over 3-4 days, use high quality brake line wrenches to turn the nuts to prevent rounding the brake line nuts, as they are soft steel. Cheap brake line wrenches will round the nuts, buy good quality wrenches of the proper size, metric or american.
Use a ...
7
While this is an educated guess, I'd put money on the fact this is oil coming from the oil filler cap. It appears the cap isn't sealing completely, or possibly the cap isn't screwed on tight enough. If tightening it a little more doesn't work, you'll need to replace the seal on this to get it to stop. The seal itself may be an o-ring type, or it could be ...
6
There are several places water can get into the cabin of a car, some of the more typical are:
Through tired door and window seals.
Through drain holes in the floor.
Condensation from your breath and/or the air-conditioning system.
brought in on your shoes, clothing etc.
through rust holes, missing bungs, etc.
Explicit leaks would result in more water when ...
6
Radiators are pretty simple to replace. If you've never done it before, look at some youtube videos, and set aside about 4 hours for it (90 minutes, if you're handy with a spanner). Repairs on radiators are rarely successful - it's often a plastic sidewall that goes on Subarus. Sticking various concoctions in the radiator (or a raw egg) just causes extra - ...
6
I think you need to reseal the timing cover
I found several images uploaded in a ZIP by an enterprising Corolla owner.
Here's an image showing the O-ring you replaced next to the water pump/pulley assembly. If that was leaking you would see water dribbling down the front of the timing chain cover.
Here is another image showing how the gasket maker/sealant ...
6
I can't say for sure about this vehicle but I've had the problem in the past where there is a small tube that connects to the sunroof drain (usually one in each corner) and this either deteriorates or works its way loose and allows the water to drain into the pillar instead of through the tube. Since the passenger footwell is the lowest point, I'd expect it ...
5
When you install a hose clamp there are a few concerns to ensure it doesn’t leak. First of all, ensure the hose is in good shape on the inside and the outside. If it is cracking anywhere around there, it will probably leak and before long (if it must hold pressure) it may fail completely.
Second, ensure the hose is sufficiently placed upon the tube it will ...
5
If you have no money, the simplest way to get it fixed is to use a stainless metal screw (or galvanized if you cannot find stainless). Simply screw it into where the hole is at. When you insert the screw, the metal of the tank will form around the screw. This is an "old timers trick". Back in the day when a tank would get some water in it (because of bad gas)...
5
Nick C pointed some good things to look but forgave one important thing in my opinion.
First let me ask you a question : Do you have many trees near your house/where you park your car or near the parking at work? If so my bet would be clogged drain from the bottom of your windshield. In my short experience with car all the time a car was leaking inside this ...
5
There are three places I can think the water would be flowing out of from the back area of the engine. The engine in your Yukon should be the GenI Small Block Chevrolet (SBC) engine (I believe they started putting LSx motors in them in 1999). The SBC has water passages through the intake manifold at the front and back of the engine. If one of these passages ...
5
This solution applied to my '82 Oldsmobile back in the day. I suspect you might have a similar situation. The windshield on that car was actually glued onto the front of the frame with a black urethane glue, it also rests on a couple of metal tabs that keep the windshield from sliding down.
When they replaced my windshield the put too much glue on the ...
5
Long story short, yes it is an option. Whether or not it's a good one is another discussion.
Good News: finding a replacement gas tank and having a competent mechanic replace it shouldn't cost anywhere near $2000. Especially if you find the gas tank yourself. I'd be curious to know how your mechanic intends to fix your gas tank and add up his services to a ...
5
There isn't an oil source that I can think of by the rear tires of a Mk4 Golf, as pointed out in the comments a brake fluid leak seems much more likely. Brake fluid is normally clear, but it could be dark with contamination or you could be picking up road dirt and grease from the tire. Brake fluid is a very good solvent, so it may also be carrying dirt and ...
5
Sounds like the carburetor, float, and/or float valve may be dirty.
NOTE: A service manual will be extremely helpful as you go thru this process.
There is no reason to take this carburetor apart and not rebuild it. So, get a carburetor rebuild kit, which contains the necessary seals/gaskets and other items needing replaced.
After disassembly, all of ...
4
It's definitely possible. My choice for a repair like this would be JB Weld, but I would think lots of products would do fine, though I'd be skeptical of any kind of caulk that's not going to bond tightly to the plastic.
answered Jan 13 '14 at 6:12
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4
I'd suggest you're right in your diagnosis and, yes, it should be safe to drive on a minimal basis. The only issue you might see is a check engine light due to the tank not being sealed completely. Also, your fuel will absorb more water than it would otherwise, though this will still be only a small amount. Be careful while fueling and get the repair done as ...
4
Teflon tape will not dissolve and should seal the plug, unless there is a larger issue with the plug itself or it's not seating correctly. It could also be, you just don't have the plug tight enough. Secondarily, you did use the correct port on the master?
As for Telfon itself, because of its chemical makeup, it is one of the most non-reactive substances ...
4
If you're on a very tight budget & don't care about the car too much, and it's not a big leak, then some of the pour-in-the-radiator "leak stop" products might work quickly Something like this. Raw eggs (or just eggwhites) might work too for a little while. Those would coat your entire coolant system with "goop" that should plug small holes.
But best ...
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