8

The reason the muffler is glowing red is because the exhaust temperature is off the chart. This (highly likely) means that the ignition timing is out, or the fuel mixture is too lean. One possibility on small engines that run a flywheel magneto is that the keyway/key may have damaged itself or sheared off, allowing the timing to go out. Or, the carby is ...


6

This does not sound like an electrical problem to me. Let me break down the issue a bit and see if we can come to some conclusions. The engine starts fine with starter fluid. This tells me that it is consistently generating a spark. Hence, we can rule out electric systems, except the possibility of a weak battery. You are turning the engine for a ...


5

With lawn mowers it's not uncommon to shear the flywheel key when hitting something with the blade. The crankshaft in a lawn mower sites vertically. At the bottom there is the blade. At the top there is a flywheel. The flywheel serves two purposes. The first is that it's big and heavy allowing it to store kinetic energy so that the lawn mower can continue ...


5

Firstly, you should find out the actual problem - "engine gone" could be almost anything, and may well be something you can fix for a lot less than an entire new engine... Can you describe the symptoms a bit clearer? Does the engine spin freely? Does it spin faster or slower than it used to? Are there any visible signs of damage, or leaking oil? Does the ...


4

You could try unhooking the cable at the handle and then tie a loose knot in it. This may make the cable too short. In that case you could drill a hole in the safety handle bail a little further up. I'm fairly certain it's not adjustable at either end. The proper repair requires replacing the cable. Believe it or not, sears.com has an incredible range ...


4

As with all engines, you need spark, fuel and compression. If all three are present it will run, if any are missing it won't. When you try to start the engine, does it turn over at normal speed, as if it is trying to start, or does it spin a lot faster or slower than you might expect? If it is a lot faster, you may have low compression. If it is a lot ...


3

Pull the spark and make sure it's not wet with oil. If it is, clean it. Validate there's not oil in the cylinder. If there is, you can squirt carb cleaner into it and pull the string a few times real hard to clear it out. Wash, rinse, repeat a few times. Check your air filter and ensure it's not saturated with oil. If it is, clean and/or replace it as ...


3

To answer my own question: I contacted another mechanic with this issue who fixed it in no time. I feel quite stupid now... The problem was indeed with the fuel line. The fuel line was clogged with some bits of grass that had fallen in during refilling. But it was clogged in such a "creative" way that the fuel pump was able to pull some fuel through it ...


3

I had a similar issue with my Craftsman mower. Turned out the needle valve was sticking. Once it started, I could tap the side of the carburetor with a small hammer and it would then keep running. Replaced the needle valve and it's been running fine all summer.


3

It sounds to me as though the clutching idler pulley is not releasing. If you get a look under the left hand side (as you are sitting on it), you should be able to see both belts riding off of the engine pulleys. If you have your son actuate the clutch while you are looking at it, you should see the clutching pulley move. These are nothing more than a slip ...


2

I would get quotes from one or two other repairers. John Deere is a good brand, I'd hope that parts would be readily available at reasonable cost even though it is old. $450 seems a lot to me (though I've no experience with this situation) so I'd ask a John Deere parts retailer for parts prices. It may be the repairer just assumed that the crankshaft, ...


2

This sounds like a defective fuel cap. This is a problem with the LX288 / 277 the vent hole clogs and you get a vacuum lock situation. Replace that cap! Also, less likely is sticking valves, which occur when the engine gets hot. Again a known problem with the FH500V engine.


2

More than likely the problem will be solved with a new carburetor. Ethanol gas can plug ports and/or cause float issues. What you are describing is your fuel bowl filling up when sitting still, then you run it but the feed provides enough fuel to not keep it completely filled (or filled to where it's supposed to be). So after a few minutes of running, it ...


2

Your issue is most likely the battery ... well, I'll even go a little stronger than that ... you battery is definitely an issue. A fully charged 12v battery should be around 13.1-13.5vdc when fully charged. As it gets older, the "full" voltage decreases and it will no longer provide enough juice to start the engine. I would test this theory by placing a ...


2

If you can get spark from the wire, but not the plug, I'd suggest a bad plug (I'm sure you're already there). I'm thinking the coil may be getting hot due to your method of inciting the spark ... I'd replace the plug, then see if it's getting hot still. A coil really doesn't cost that much so replacing it may be a simple fix to all of this. I've tried ...


2

I can see one of two things happening: The drive belt is worn out. The tensioner pulley which takes up the slack in the drive belt is not doing its job. If this is the case, the spring associated with the tensioner pulley may be weak. The first one may be easy enough. If this has not been changed out in several years, you may want to just do this in the ...


2

Yes, replace the spark plug - just make sure it has the correct gap before you fit it. And, at worst you end up with a used spare...


2

If the carb is getting too much fuel, there is one of three reasons, all of them related. The float isn't working. If the float longer floats, it will allow fuel to keep allowing fuel into the float bowl, and therefore the carburetor even when it shouldn't. The needle and seat, which are attached to the float, are not sealing correctly. They could be worn ...


2

Your assumptions could very well be wrong. They could be, but aren't necessarily the causes of your problems. As already mentioned, but i second it because it's important: Put new gas in there, old gas may have lost the easily vapourising components, making it harder to start. Clean the fuel line and float bowl. Check the jet orifices for blockages. ...


2

Will it run using starting fluid? If so, follow the following. If not, check compression on the engine before anything else. Change the spark plug - always a good thing to do at the start of a season (or during any major work) Change the gas for fresh gas. Check that the fuel flows freely when you remove the line from the carb inlet. If not, new lines are ...


2

SAE-30 is specified as the lawnmower is basically used in summer. So, using SAE10W-30 will be fine as it has the equivalent hot specification ie the "30" part.


2

Two possible answers here. 1) Your system has a high mounted tank and fuel is gravity fed to a fuel bowl at bottom of carburetor. Its possible old fuel clogged a main jet and your tip over test bypassed the blockage with enough fuel to run for a few minutes. Note a common fault is blockage at fuel bowl inlet jet. 2) Your system includes a membrane ...


1

The "alternator" is built into the flywheel - manufacturers tend to minimize components on smaller machines and separate alternators are used but tend to be on engines above a certain size as that also means fan belts etc which if required to drive other components becomes viable.


1

Most likely one of the safety switches is not adjusted properly or is damaged. There are three that will prevent the engine from starting: The parking brake. If the parking brake is not fully on, it will prevent the starter from turning over the engine. The hydrostatic position. If the "go" pedal on the right side of the mower is not in a neutral ...


1

From your brief description, I'd suggest the spring which deactivates the "clutch" is probably broken. There really isn't much of a clutch on riding lawn mowers. What happens is, the drive belt is allowed to slip on the main pulley coming off of the engine when the pedal is pressed. When the pedal is released, a tensioner pulley takes up the slack in the ...


1

My tractor friend diagnosed my problem after listening to what I had to say in less than 2 minutes. I used my manual for the amount of oil. The manual is incorrect, the proper amount in written inside the engine cover. I definitely added too much....... the key was dead, because he said, too much engine oil, I was going up a small incline which pushed the ...


1

There should be a spring on the pulley arm which provides the belt tension. When you pull the handle or push the clutch pedal to release the clutch, you are putting pressure on this spring, then the spring brings it all back together so the belt no longer slips. It sounds as thought this spring may have come off.


1

Get the plug out, and crank it in a "Rabbit" mode. I mean full throttle. When you get tired, get the plug in again and try to start then without priming. If won't start with 4-5 pulls, try to prime. Another thing you can check is the wire that stops the engine when you release the handle. On a run mode the wire should not touch anything. On stop mode (...


1

Since the blade is balanced you probably don't want to use lock washers, but you can get away with LockTite or some othe thread lockers. Just be sure that the one you use is reversible. Some will make it so the blade never comes off, even when you want it too. Generally speaking LockTite Red is the permanent kind. You want blue, or purple LockTite. There are ...


1

It does sound like the starter motor, it possibly just needs some new brushes. It could also be a fault in the starter solenoid, the large conductors that switch power to the starter could be worn. I would first try using a length of wire to connect the thin control wire on the solenoid directly to the battery positive to bypass the ignition switch. If ...


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