7
The oil stuff is more than likely caused from what the intake pulls out of the crank case through the PCV. If you can get a hold of a couple cans of Seafoam, this should take care of the residue about as easy as you can do it without taking the engine apart. Use the rubber hose to the right of the photo to introduce it into your system. As an engine gets ...
6
You said "valve gaskets" but I'm going to assume you actually mean the valve seals. Since you are seeing a small puff of smoke sometimes during startup and when you are accelerating, these are usually caused by two separate issues, both of which you are mentioning.
Start-up puff of smoke can usually be attributed to bad valve seals. This is because oil ...
4
I think you need to do a throttle position sensor recalibration (reset).
(NOTE: I will post several different adjustment versions. I believe the top one is what you need (for a K8 engine), but will include another four depending on your engine.)
To do this for your vehicle you need to follow the steps below, depending on whether it is a stick/auto and ...
4
The pulsing should not be a huge issue. Remember that your 4-cyl engine will not have a constant vacuum associated with it as it is only drawing it twice per revolution of the crankshaft, which means you'll get vacuum pulses. Vehicles with more cylinders will have a more constant vacuum draw, but will still have vacuum pulses ... they'll just be less ...
4
Disconnect your battery to reset your ECU. It won't hurt, and is probably the cheapest and easiest thing you can try. 30 minutes is usually enough.
There are other theories as to why your mileage went down, but I think you're on the right track thinking the ECU hasn't learned to use the new data correctly.
I am thinking that because your new 02 sensor is ...
3
OK, so it seems like the IAT on this model is integrated with the MAF:
3
This absolutely could be the issue. On fuel injected vehicles, the coolant temperature sensor is one of the key sensors used (O2, MAP, & MAF are others) in calibrating the fuel map stored in the computer. Without the computer knowing the temperature of the engine, it has to run in a "limp-home" or "open loop" mode (depending on how the vehicle ...
2
Yes, most car ECU's learn. I'm going to assume yours is no different. If you decide to replace the coolant temperature sensor, I'd disconnect the battery at that time. When you get everything back together, it should have it's volatile memory erased and your car can start from jump street. Some cars ECU's erase in a matter of a couple of minutes, others can ...
2
This particular problem was solved by replacing the coolant temperature sensor and installing a thermostat.
Apparently the coolant temp sensor was telling the engine it was -20C and so it was running extremely rich and was artificially raising the idle. After replacing that the fuel mileage got much better, but it was still running a bit high, and when I ...
2
I had the same issue. I just managed to soft it. There may be a few causes to this, but for my case, I found that the idling air intake hose connecting the lower part of the throttle body was missing the hose clamp. Due to this, during idling, additional air were being sucked in via the small gap between the hose and the throttle body. I think the guy who ...
2
I asked this same question to the workshop that performed the headjob on one of my cars and they said that apart from a bit of smoke, it wouldn't be anything to worry about. As long as there is enough oil in the engine. They could have told me to give them more money, but they didn't.
2
I would think your issue would be the sensor (aka: sending unit). The temp sensor works on a resistance scale. The hotter it gets, the more resistance is given in the circuit (or maybe it's the other way around ... don't remember, but you get the idea), which relates to the gauge what to show on your dash (newer vehicles will take an output from the computer ...
2
Since you said the reverse lights are still working, it's not the reverse switch.
This switch signals to the engine computer if you are in a gear or neutral. The computer uses this switch to determine several things, including how to handle engine deceleration during shifting and the idle feedback loop. With 1 wire broken, the computer only ever sees this ...
1
This sounds like a problem with the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve, or something in that general vicinity. You should try to clean it and the upper intake tract.
1
Engine coolant temperature gauges are not "linear". It is quite common to see gauges which indicate the same temperature level for the operating temperature range that is deemed "normal".
Having said that, you need to understand what the normal operating temperature range is for your vehicle in order to understand if the readout corresponds to normal or ...
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