Hot answers tagged

34

No, the salesman was spot on. If you think about it, bulbs are designed to last about the same amount of time. If they are installed in pairs, then the secondary light which matches the first will most likely be on the road to death just as the first. This holds mostly true for higher output lights, like your headlights. Marker lights, being a much lower ...


20

The specs for this vehicle show that it has a 5-speed manual and that 5th gear is OD/Overdrive. According to the performance data here: The following table from that page lists the speed at 1000 rpm for each gear: 1000rpm speed: (km/h/mph) I: 7.7 / 4.8 II: 13.6 / 8.5 III: 20.4 / 12.7 IV: 27.1 /...


12

There is a screw behind the pop out cover, used to remove the door panel. This may not be exact match to your car, for example only. Image thanks to Jason C.


12

That is the excellent Mazda B3 engine. It will give you 300k service if you treat it nicely. It loves to rev. It does not like to lug. If you are at high power at low RPM (e.g. an RPM that feels right for an American V8) and you start hearing what sounds like tappet noise, that is actually the main bearings bottoming out metal on metal. Stop that ...


8

Push or pull the gray thingy. The connector should then unlock.


7

Lightbulb failure is a random event, which is not pre-set to happen after X hours of service or before a certain date. It is provoked by stress from vibration, repeated heating up and cooling down and voltage spikes above nominal voltage. Having said that, lightbulbs have a predictable ageing process where their filament gradually thins out via evaporation. ...


6

You can use this method to pull certain types of dents. Here is one method to resolve the dent issue. Dent Pulling glue these plastic ding tabs to the center of the dent. You can find them by googling "plastic ding tab" You will use a hot glue gun and hot glue them to your dent. Use a dent puller slide hammer. The tip should screw into the ...


6

It's an interior temperature sensor for cars with automatic A/C. This is on my car, a Mitsubishi Lancer it's not in the same location but it serves the same purpose.


5

I would bet the electronic speed sensor in the transmission is malfunctioning. It should look something like this: It suggests it is located at the top of the transmission, so should be fairly easy to get to. One plug, one bolt.


4

It looks like your car may have drum brakes as an option. If so and if you left the parking brake on while it was parked corrosion may have caused one of the pads to freeze partly in place. Pull the rear brake drums and see if everything is moving as it should.


4

So it could be a number of things: the pads could need grease on the NON-braking side (i.e. the side that doesn't touch the rotors), the caliper pins could be sticking, the brake pad guide plates could be dirty and causing the pads to stick, or your caliper piston itself could be sticking slightly. Greasing the backs of the pads is pretty self-explanatory. ...


4

I think you already figured it out. Since it doesn't touch anything and the E-brake doesn't hook up to it, It is almost certainly a counterweight or dampner of some kind. If the caliper doesn't weigh enough (or weighs too much), it can cuz squealing and juttering under load. I can't find a link that corroborates this information, so- As an example, the ...


4

That code is for "Intake Manifold Runner Performance Bank 1". That does not automatically mean the manifold needs to be replaced. These are the common reasons for the code; Intake manifold runner control actuator failure Powertrain Control Module (PCM) failure Restricted vacuum lines I'd start with #3 to see if it is as simple as a vacuum line. The other ...


4

While I completely agree with what @JPhi1618 says as the reasons for the lip being there, I disagree with his assessment as to if you should replace this. While it's not very large, these do help with airflow through the radiator. Even the smallest lip creates a low pressure zone behind it which helps bring air down through the radiator while moving. This ...


4

There's a few things you can use to try and work it out if you can't get hold of a Kia dealer to decode the VIN. Assuming the specs match the US versions then you can probably puzzle it out from the options: Engine: If it's the 2.4 then that narrows it down to LX, EX or SX spec, the 2.0T means it's SX Turbo or SXL Turbo. Wheels: If it's 16" Wheels then ...


4

To answer your questions: Yes, this does appear to be a heat shield In general, auto manufacturers don't include anything in the car that they don't need to: this eats into their profits. That being said, it'd be a guessing game as to whether this heat shield was added in order to improve the customer's driving experience (i.e. by reducing the amount of ...


4

In contrast to the other contributors I have never replaced both headlights at the same time. I am 64 years old and have been replacing my own lights since I had my first car. You will sometimes get a year or more of service out of the other headlight after you replace it's mate. Headlights, like any other lightbulb have a high degree of quality and ...


3

It sounds like a blown head gasket ... I'm surprised your mechanic didn't suggest that to you. If there is no sign of visible leakage, it has to be going somewhere. There are only two other places for it to go. Into the crankcase or out the tail pipe getting burnt. You should be able to smell and see it coming out the tail pipe (you may see signs of ...


3

One way round your problem would be too have a second battery, together with diode pack and wiring to charge it independantly. If your intention is too camp out in remote areas, you really dont want to saddle the vehicles system with any loads. Alternatively a generator for your machine. A continuous 6amp load overnight is quite a high demand on a regular ...


3

My guess would be that the grayish colored piece slides onto the black baseplate. It appears to be held in place by the three dimples fitting into a detent. I would insert a small screwdriver between the two humps shown in the first photo. With a twisting motion see if the gray plate slides toward the dash. You may have to try several size screwdrivers to ...


3

No. Reusing the radiator cap (almost certainly) didn't cause the water pump failure. The advice to replace the cap is probably based on the logic that the cap is a relatively inexpensive part and renewing it helps to ensure the integrity of the pressurized cooling system. An independent mechanic will often try to use her/his judgment to balance cost and ...


3

Give the car a jump start, but let the leads from the donor vehicle stay on the new battery for a period of time. Check the battery to ensure there is sufficient charge in it (at least 12vdc) to keep the vehicle running. Get the Sedona started and then pull the leads from the donor vehicle. Check the voltage at the battery. If the voltage continues to drop ...


3

The story as told here doesn't make a lot of sense to me in the UK (I assume it is the UK, from the reference to MOT and presumably the DVLA website at Gov.uk). If the car was involved in an accident and the police were called to the scene, the police would have called a towing company to clear the road and put the car in safe storage somewhere, if in ...


3

I think that your left and center brake filaments have blown. The left and right bulbs will have 2 filaments, one for the tail (side) light and one for the brake light. Only the brake filament will have blow in the left one, so allowing the tail light to continue to work. When this brake filament broke, the body control unit (BCU) recognized it and lit ...


3

I got 3,000 rpm at 120 km/h on a Hyunday Grand i10, 1.2 lts engine (~5 lts/100km)


2

Another thought is this, the way these rear view mirrors work is it has sensors back and front in the mirror which detects the difference in observed light. When the one behind (facing you) detects it is brighter than the front, it will dim the mirror. Covering both of these will make the mirror "think" there is no difference in observed light and will ...


2

Finally managed to solve this problem. There were two, different 4-digit codes: one on the back of the manual, and another on a separate card. The 4-digit code on the card was the correct one for the radio.


2

There are a number of aftermarket, FOSS, navigation systems out there. Physically, you're looking at a double DIN head unit, to fit the display. Nine times out of ten, these are running Windows CE (probably 6.0). Personally, I have used Navit (http://www.navit.ie) as the routing software and help develop it for Windows CE, Android and Linux. It is written ...


2

It may seem unlikely but I've had similar issues on other vehicles caused by corrosion on the battery terminal posts or loose connections. The accessories can still work because they require less amperage and the ignition or starter can't get high enough amperage over a barely connected battery. It could also be a loose connection to the ignition coil (...


2

tl;dr: The stabilizer works with the swaybar to reduce body roll in turns. The stabilizer in the picture is missing a nut on the top bolt. The picture in the question clearly illustrates the function of the stabilizer (if you know what it's connected to) and what some of the failure modes might be. Here is a picture of some of the critical components ...


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