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5

Firstly, you should find out the actual problem - "engine gone" could be almost anything, and may well be something you can fix for a lot less than an entire new engine... Can you describe the symptoms a bit clearer? Does the engine spin freely? Does it spin faster or slower than it used to? Are there any visible signs of damage, or leaking oil? Does the ...


5

You know there's low oil, and then there's low oil. I gotta tell you a story, its how I got started in automotive stuff. So I was living in Germany as an American G.I. I got interested in cars as a hobby. A friend of mine had crashed his car into a curb at high speed, and the insurance company called it a total loss. He wanted $300 for it. I wanted ...


3

This absolutely is the high pressure fuel injection pump for the diesel engine. I cannot tell for sure, but it looks as though this is a three cylinder engine (?) as I can only see two fuel lines coming out the right side of the injector pump. I'm assuming the third one is on the back side of this, behind the fuel line coming from the fuel tank (larger line ...


3

To answer my own question: I contacted another mechanic with this issue who fixed it in no time. I feel quite stupid now... The problem was indeed with the fuel line. The fuel line was clogged with some bits of grass that had fallen in during refilling. But it was clogged in such a "creative" way that the fuel pump was able to pull some fuel through it ...


2

I would get quotes from one or two other repairers. John Deere is a good brand, I'd hope that parts would be readily available at reasonable cost even though it is old. $450 seems a lot to me (though I've no experience with this situation) so I'd ask a John Deere parts retailer for parts prices. It may be the repairer just assumed that the crankshaft, ...


2

I know this is an old question, but my bet is the chain for reverse broke inside the transaxle and balled up against the housing locking the rear wheels...only when you engage the reverse gear. It could have even cracked the case on the right side where the chain lives, have a look. It's a bit tedious going back together but you can split the cases of the ...


2

SE was from way back (circa 1979), so any off the shelf oil should be well ahead of that at a minimum. The current standard is SN. Since I would assume you will not be changing this oil very often, I would highly suggest you purchase some thing like Royal Purple or some other high grade synthetic engine oil. I know it's a little expensive, but considering ...


2

This sounds like a defective fuel cap. This is a problem with the LX288 / 277 the vent hole clogs and you get a vacuum lock situation. Replace that cap! Also, less likely is sticking valves, which occur when the engine gets hot. Again a known problem with the FH500V engine.


1

It's clear to me that you have identified the main cause of this: Fuel is NOT getting into the engine. You noted that there doesn't appear to be any fuel in the fuel filter, so the next step is to determine WHY that is the case. Is there a fuel shut-off valve? Is there a fuel screen that is blocked? Is the fuel line pinched or clogged? What about the ...


1

Most likely one of the safety switches is not adjusted properly or is damaged. There are three that will prevent the engine from starting: The parking brake. If the parking brake is not fully on, it will prevent the starter from turning over the engine. The hydrostatic position. If the "go" pedal on the right side of the mower is not in a neutral ...


1

Actually, I don't think it's a car part. I think it's a bi-swivel mount for a flag stanchion so you can get it at just the right angle from anywhere. You know, for those decorative flags people put out on the front of their house? I did a cursory glance and didn't find anything which looked exactly like it ...


1

The Tuff Torx engineer I talked with recommended using 5W-50 synthetic oil. I use it in my JD and Husqvarna mowers. My JD is 23 years old ( Used 10W30 for 18 of those years) and the Husqvarna is 8 years.


1

DO NOT use automatic transmission fluid (ATF) - that fluid is NOT compatible with the oil that's in there now, and it may even wreck your seals. If John Deere wants you to use regular ol' motor oil (which is part and parcel of their specification), that's what you should use. Depending upon your climate, you may need 10W30 or you may be able to get by just ...


1

The oil bottle will state what API classifications it meets. You need SAE 10w30 that lists one of those classifications on the bottle. Any standard 10w30 motor oil should have it. Just check for it when you buy the oil.


1

You have three choices. Transmission rebuild Nice option, as it doesn't mean buying anymore huge parts and you're just throwing out what's broken, but can turn out pretty expensive - especially if your time is worth anything. Essentially, you have to open up the transmission and find anything that is broken and replace it. This can be long and ...


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