9

There's 3 things you need to look at: the accelerator pedal itself the throttle cable the throttle body If you pop the hood, find your throttle body: it is between the air intake tube and the metal top part of the engine and has a half-wheel sticking out the front with 1 (no cruise control) or 2 (cruise control) cables attached to it. When you turn it by ...


7

This is a well-worded, interesting, and valuable question. Unfortunately, not among the "gung ho risk taking" mechanics, I would not even guess at an answer without seeing the problem firsthand. So my meta answer would be to duplicate the problem in a static situation (not moving/driving) -- perhaps by wiggling and pulling on the pedal into a position ...


6

Well, the new rotors and pads were the answer. I'm surprised that the EBC OEM replacements gave me so much trouble, but the new EBC Red Stuff (ceramic) pads and slotted rotors have been wonderful. Even with my typical hard braking, no noise, and better performance, too. (Apologies for the delayed answer. I became sidetracked and completely forgot about this ...


5

This is just a guess and not specific to your bike. I'm also not sure if the effect is large enough to be noticeable. So, just my theory: In the bowl of a carburetor, there is a float, pushing a valve up against the fuel inlet pipe. So it closes when fuel is at a certain level in the bowl. Now, fuel finds its way into the carburetor by gravity only. And if ...


5

The symptom is explained by low pressure in the fuel rail. If this was happening only during hot starts I would investigate the following, since in fuel-injected systems, hot-start problems indicate that the fuel line is unable to maintain pressure: a leaky fuel injector cracks in the fuel line which leak fuel when under pressure a bad non-return valve in ...


4

Given that the issue vanishes "immediately" upon pressing the clutch, I would guess that the problem lies somewhere in the transmission or its linkages. The already mentioned throwout bearing is a possibility, especially with Subarus. Given everything you wrote here, and the well known throwout bearing issue, that seems the most likely candidate. Here is a ...


4

First I would start with disconnecting battery. To verify the connections, then starter unit. Connections may look good to the eye, but the connections are known to cause multiple starting problems. When the both connections are nice and clean, check the connections on the ignition unit, they can get lose also. When your ground and hot are ok, then I would ...


3

Why would the car stumble occasionally? Based on what's been described, I'd say it's probably because the air-fuel mixture isn't right. It's either running too rich or too lean. If it is running lean enough, you should be able to hear the engine ping/"cough". Too rich, and the engine will feel like it's getting bogged down. Depressing the clutch or ...


3

It sounds like you have an intermitant failing sensor. On most of the systems I have worked with the crank sensor isn't required and wouldn't inhibit the engine from starting. The cam sensor or possibly the maf sensor could cause this behavior. Really what you need to do is pull the code. One thing to add, is that crank and cam position sensors are Hall ...


3

P0171 - System Too Lean (Bank 1) (Immature) P0507 - Idle Air Control System RPM Higher Than Expected (History) (Immature) Potential vacuum leak: I can hear a steady hissing sound near the intake manifold Also, it idles high (around 1500 RPM) most of the time. All of the above are symptoms of unmetered air making it's way into the cylinders. The ...


3

Check a few things: Battery Voltage - Should be 12V (absolute minimum) to 14.5V (general maximum). I guarantee that you're not high charge, but low charge could be an issue. Test the battery with the key in the OFF position and ACC position separately to check for draw/short issues. Connections - Make sure your battery terminals are corral in free. Even if ...


3

If the system is either working fine or not at all then the likely failure is in the control gear for the system, the AC clutch would be my first port of call, you'll need an assistant: Open the engine bay and look for the AC compressor, it is one of the ancillaries at the side of the engine run by a serpentine belts. The compressor pulley has a clutch ...


2

You have new brakes it takes time to them loose the original coating/surface. My have the same problem for a time but not lasted for this long. The grove is does noot sounds good. If they are not too deep you could go to a shop and they could make resurface it. Sometimes your disc soo thin that they could 'bend' because of the heat. Is this sound 'still' ...


2

So my long standing suspicions regarding the car's security system being the source of some strange stalling problems seems to have been confirmed: The Cobra alarm system which was installed in the car had multiple shorted out, charred wires ( you can see six in the picture ) which were making intermittent contact with each other. Apparently, over the ...


2

The most likely explanations would be either 1) a loose connection, or 2) if the moped has a self-resetting circuit breaker (instead of a fuse) in the headlight circuit, then perhaps there is an overload. The first possibility would most likely be set off by vibrations, so you might think about when the light goes out and see if you notice a pattern – does ...


2

What you have described are classical symptoms of what happens when a bad batch of fuel finds its way inside an engine - sputtering/coughing/misfiring during low-load operation. If the issue recurs with fuel that is known to be good, another possibility is that the fuel supply system is unable to deliver the required amount of fuel, causing the engine to ...


2

Check that your fuel tank isn't contaminated with silt / rust particles. It may be worth emptying the tank, removing it from the bike and giving it a good clean. As fuel tanks get older it's very common for them to gather small particles which sit at the bottom of the tank. When the fuel level is low, the ratio of fuel to particles increases so can choke ...


2

I definitely notice the bike not running quite right a mile or two before running out of gas or switching to reserve on my bikes. How far in advance are you seeing it?


2

Depending on compression ratio (CR) of any given engine whether it can can benefit from higher octane fuel, regular grade fuel is for compression ratios of 8.5 to 1 or lower, premium grade gasoline is for 9.0-10.0 CR. If you have 10.5 or higher CR premium will still ping on premium unless you retard the timing 2 degrees or more, which defeats the purpose of ...


2

If your scanner can't connect, the ECU is your problem. Swap it with one from a junkyard to see. You had been successful in using this scanner with this vehicle before, right?


2

If your car went into limp mode there should be On-Board Diagnostic (OBD2) codes stating what the problem was. It's hard to imagine a dealer being unable to figure out what is wrong. If there's no code then the computer itself could possibly be at fault, in which case they should figure it out. You need to get this problem fixed for your own peace of mind, ...


1

It seems that 1997 RAV4 has hydraulic power steering, not an electric one. If even there is an electric motor/actuator there, the power would have to drop really low for you to notice, so low that you would have trouble starting the engine next morning. Nothing in the car has even remotely comparable electricity draw as the starter. if the stereo problems ...


1

This sounds like it could be a faulty voltage regulator as you have symptoms of both over-charging and undercharging. Overcharging can fry some components and damage your battery, undercharging can lead to you losing power when you need it. I think that the regulator is actually part of the alternator on this car, you'd have to take the alternator apart to ...


1

Turns out it was caused by one of the tires. All of them were pretty old but one was damaged a bit. I got new tires and the car now runs smooth and quiet. Thanks for all the help


1

If it's hard for you to diagnose it, it's nigh-on impossible for us to tell you what it could be. That said, here are a few things to help you narrow down where the problem is so you can tally it with any findings your service technicians unearth: At resonant speed, put the vehicle in neutral and see if the resonance goes away If it vanishes, you know the ...


1

I'm 98% positive that the thottle in a Jeep Liberty is electronic, so probably the pedal isn't really connected to the throttle body. With this in mind, given your assestment on the behavior and the click your daughter heard, I would do the next: Check the pedals, check that the connections are properlly set. Clean the metal contacts with a mild acid(...


1

This sounds like the fuel pump is failing. The only way to tell for sure is to put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail and test it when it's behaving as such. If the fuel pump heats up and doesn't want to pump fuel anymore, it will cause the issues you are talking about. It can be intermittent. If it is the fuel pump, you can expect it will completely go ...


1

things to check: does it have spark. pull a sparkplug and ground it or hook a timing light up to a cable and see if you have spark do you smell fuel out the exhaust pipe after cranking? if you do you may have a flooding issue is your fuel pump turning on? you might want to test fuel line pressure. are your fuel filters clean?


1

Was it this thing you replaced? It's the Control unit, ventilation fan, ACC (220b). It's fed by fuse 23 in the dashboard fuse box (IPEC), which doesn't seem to do much else. If those wires were shorting out, you would blow fuse 23; no smoke, no fire, unless something else was badly wrong. I'm afraid your loss-of-power problem has another cause. But rule ...


1

Hm, I am thrown off by your mention of the clutch, throw-out bearing and deceleration notes, but I figure this is worth mentioning as it otherwise fits the bill. There is a TSB/recall for 2015 Subarus with the 2.0L FA engine for pre-ignition causing the noise you otherwise seem to be experiencing. Subaru Service Program WQW-5 Subaru has developed a ...


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