12

Intake manifold runner length is the linear distance from the inlet port (the face of the head) to a common point shared by all cylinders. Depending on the throttle position this could be the open atmosphere (if each cylinder has its own throttle butterfly) or a plenum (if they share a throttle body). The intake runner volume is the volume of that section ...


10

Variable-length intakes increase the pressure of the air entering the intake manifold thanks to a physical phenomenon called Helmholtz resonance. It's also known as dynamic supercharging since it avoids the use of a mechanical device (compressor/blower) to boost intake air pressure. How the Helmholtz does it increase air pressure? Without getting too ...


9

tl dr - To directly answer the question, SeaFoam is a pure petroleum product. If an alternative product is made up the same as Seafoam, then I'd think it would work just fine. If its makeup is not similar, you probably won't see the same results. Below is what you are looking for and a recipe for making your own substitute. I found this answer for a SeaFoam ...


9

The 'floating' intake runners are moved by a mechanism, coupling and decoupling them from the main intake runners to increase the overall length for better low RPM performance. This process was recently discussed here: mech.SE on inlet runner length I don't see that having the extension pieces in the decoupled position would have any effect of the resonant ...


8

This is a variable-length intake Variable-length intakes increase the pressure of the air entering the intake manifold thanks to a physical phenomenon called Helmholtz resonance. It's also known as dynamic supercharging since it avoids the use of a mechanical device (compressor/blower) to boost intake air pressure, which means the air enters the cylinders ...


6

Upstream the throttle body A dirty intake by itself isn't the problem, but it is a sign of contamination of related components: MAF sensors don't take kindly to dirt This will usually lead to the fouling of the hot-wire(s), resulting in the underreading of air mass flow, which will lead to positive fuel trim correction. If the contamination is bad enough,...


6

The length of the intake runners have certain affects on the engine operation. For example, longer intake runners are used to improve the bottom end torque (torque at low RPMs) while shorter intake runners will improve top end power (horsepower at high RPMs). The lengths will vary from engine to engine as well as what the goals of each vehicle the engine ...


5

I would remove the remaining bolts if possible, and attempt to lift the manifold off enough to rotate and clear. If it works, use the penetrating oil and heat as previously suggested then vice grips on the bolt shaft. Caution on heat, turning while very hot will just twist off the bolt again.


4

I would say the best option here would be to use a screw extractor, which will involve some drilling. The steps to using it are as follows: carefully drill a pilot hole in the bolt twist the screw extractor into the hole The left-handed thread of the screw extractor will have the effect of loosening the bolt as you try to force it into the hole. Here is a ...


4

With modern engines, it is measured with a MAF meter, a device that meaures air flow by using a hot platina wire or film that cools down when air flows past it. The temperature is an indication of the air flow. Other cars approximate the airflow with the engine speed and the manifold pressure. Carbs have many ways to do it. Constant depression carbs have a ...


3

It's a vacuum solenoid controlled "flap" that uses exhaust heat to keep the intake manifold warm in extreme conditions. I beleive it has a special mounting area on one of the exhaust manifolds. Should look something like this: The EEC-IV commands the solenoid (based on what, I'm not sure, but probably coolant temperature and/or intake air temperature), ...


3

I had a similar problem with a Landrover Discover exhaust manifold stud. I carefully welded a washer and a nut onto it. You can see it here - http://handyhowie.co.uk/handyhowie/Disco_1999_Exhault_Manifold.html I think the heat helped it come out too. One thing to note however, is that the discovery had an alloy head.


3

Try checking around every pipe, that you can visually see. Best route would be to get it up on a ramp and have a look underneath, have a look at the oil sump maybe there's a leak there. If you know someone with a ramp it would make it easier to look underneath the car though. Try going around to where the smell is coming from, see if there is maybe any ...


3

I think that the hole in the intake is not threaded and the bolt goes through the manifold and threads in to the head. If that is the case you should be able to pull the manifold off and then address the stuck bolt separately. A good soak with PB Blaster always helps and the previously mentioned trick where you weld a nut on to the top of the broken bolt ...


2

The bolt extractors should really be a last resort. The extractors are much harder than the original bolt, and if that extractor breaks off inside the bolt, you just made your job a lot more difficult. Drilling through normal manifold bolts is cake compared to drilling out an extractor. The drill bit wants to drill through absolutely everything except the ...


2

If you are going to do any drilling to get it out, use a left hand drill bit, it usually will unscrew the broken bolt. Works great.


2

1 clean around filter box 2 open filter box and remove old filter - dispose of it correctly 3 clean inside the filter box as necessary and fit cleaned or new filter 4 close filter box - make sure lid is seated correctly.


2

Your carburettor probably looks something like this: Source This carburettor is what we call a float carburettor. Essentially, the bottom side of this carburettor works on the principle of a bowl, a float, and a needle. The bowl contains a certain amount of fuel to be drawn into the engine. Inside the bowl there is a float, which is attached to a needle....


2

No. The intake valves sit in the path of the intake air. The only oil it is supposed to see is whatever is routed back to the intake tract via crankcase ventilation, which will be combusted and sent through the exhaust anyway.


1

So, your real question is the bold bit at the end of your explanations: Is there any real benefit or not (from any angle: consumption, performance, etc) by installing the second manifold? Answer: no. They will perform the same and consume the same. The engines concerned are built to coarse tolerances for severe weather fluctuations. Why Lada and Skoda made ...


1

Manifold gauge vacuum is the difference between manifold absolute pressure and barometric pressure. The reason you see 0 inHG at WOT is because manifold pressure is equalized to barometric pressure in the manifold on a naturally aspirated car. On the other hand when the throttle is closed you'll see roughly 20 inHG. Engine vacuum tends to differ between ...


1

I remember that gauges were available for tuning / performance fitment : id est : boy racer / petrol head applications and the gauges came with an explanation sheet which explained the readings or fluctuations, but this was, as you point out, for carburettor applications. I have not seen any documentation that refers to the use with fuel injection setups - ...


1

In labs testing engines, we used manometers (specially calibrated with constants), temperature etc and the gas equations to get mass or volume flow rates...


1

Well if it is anything like an aircraft engine it may be there to prevent intake icing. Evaporating fuel soaks up a lot of heat and ice can form in the intake even on relatively warm days. It might also help to keep fuel vaporized in very cold weather when the fuel vapors might condense on the manifold before the engine heats up.


1

I think this should help. I note that it is a very specific sequence and three-stage endeavor -- which makes me suspect that it should probably be followed:


1

Replace it, too may things can go wrong with an injector, weak spring, pitted pintle seat, shorted solenoid winding's, etc. Its not worth the time to try cleaning it.


1

I would start by running though a tank of injector cleaner or seafoam and see if it cleans itself out. If that doesn't work, you can pull it out and try to clean it with carb cleaner and an air compressor. I THINK you can open an injector with a 9V battery. If not, you may need to rig up something. 12v 1A power brick with a fuse should work. If that ...


1

If the engine is completely shut down, then the injector should be closed and there will not be any pressure in the system as the fuel pressure regulator and the pump would be off (although I am assuming there would be some residual pressure in the system). You can check the said injector by taking it out, putting few drops of fuel inside the injector and ...


1

I had the same issue. I removed the manifold completely and tried to remove it with vise grips without success. Then it broke again and was flush with head. Then I drilled it and tried an extractor which did not work. My last resource was drill the whole bolt starting with a small drill and switching gradually to a larger one. Then when there was a thin wall ...


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