I'm afraid I have some bad news for you. Assuming that your alarm is a Thatcham approved alarm and was installed by an approved installer, it must disable the vehicle at a minimum of three different points. Additionally the Thatcham specification stipulates the entire alarm loom must be black.
Even if it's a lesser, non-Thatcham alarm, the biggest issue ...
Courtesy of a SNAPON document
If the scan tool does not receive data from an OBD II vehicle
Connect the positive DMM lead to DLC pin 4 and the negative DMM lead to the negative battery terminal, using jumper wires if necessary. Do not connect to body or chassis ground but to the battery terminal directly
With the ignition on, voltage drop across ...
You stated that you can get it to start
You need to fuss with the ignition switch and move the key in and out in order to get it to start. More than likely something to do with the physical interface between the switch and the contacts within it.
I only say this is more likely because it is physical and things that are physical/analogue have a higher ...
Here is more info than you would like http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/strtctr.pdf
The short of it is that it takes 8-10 amps to hold the solenoid in place while starting but the draw can spike to 30 amps while it is engaging.
This is assuming that the ignition switch is carrying the current for the solenoid, new cars with push button starts and some ...
It turned out the alarm was not made by tec-tus, only the transponder.
I emailed the right company, and got a reply rather early in the morning with pdf's with schematic and programming.
Basicly the procedure is:
Ignition on, then off
Touch transponder with red master fob (for about 3 sec) until led flashes quickly.
Remove fob for about 1-2 ...
I went through the "replace a faulty engine computer" drill a year or so ago and it was quite an ugly experience.
1). The manufacturer did NOT sell replacement units. This car was 15 years old. If your manufacturer supports it, having this resolved at your local dealership is your best chance for success.
2). In my case the engine computer failed because ...
Check circuit F28 for open. (Pin 9 DLC to A16 PCM)
Check pin 3 (Immobilizer) to 14 DLC for continuity.
If okay, may be inclined to replace immobilizer as first course of action.
After replacement, consider researching Honda 'automatic key registration'. Unfortunately, I don't have the time to look into it. Recently, I replaced an immobilizer on a ...
Having a Cobra alarm fitted to my 1985 Supra, I can confirm what Steve Matthews wrote. The alarm inhibits the ECU (thereby coil and injectors), fuel pump and starter motor. Fundamentally, this is done by intercepting wires going to relays, but a well-fitted alarm will do so in such a way you'd have to dismantle most of the dashboard to find the right wires. ...
Using the relay to disable key elements of a vehicles ability to run give me pause. Any misstep in the implementation process could lead to a failure of the pump or device critical to the vehicle continuing to run could proved to be dangerous.
I would not recommend using a switch or relay due to the hazard of the vehicle failing to run while driving. A ...
Here's the method if you don't have a scan tool. Note this is for a brand new key & ECM.
Ensure SECURITY indicator light is flashing. SECURITY indicator is located on left side of instrument panel.
Insert ignition key into ignition lock cylinder. Note that SECURITY indicator light should now remain on steady.
Once ignition key registration is under ...
Same problem, fixed it, details below.
Toyota Sienna 2001 XLE. Issue: Key doesn't turn. Problem: Some of the tumblers in Toyota's ignition lock cylinder are split. These split tumblers don't go down when they should. For vid description, see: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bxxwk9l9X9g
Possible fix: Buy a new cylinder. However, if you have chip'd keys (...
I just had this same problem 1 day ago and realized that the original key which I just found no longer works after having a replacement key made by a locksmith. It unlocks the door by placing it in the keyhole but will start the car but them it shuts down. Great safety mechanism if someone else had of found the key and tried to take the car.
I just ...
If you have the black "master" key that came with your Daihatsu, adding new keys is simple. You will need to have all your keys ready, as these steps will remove all keys from the immobiliser ECU with the exception of the black master key.
These steps will work for the Daihatsu Copen (pre 2013) and the Daihatsu YRV
Connect the terminal T to Terminal E on ...
The inability to communicate with the ECU could be explained by the lack of power from the battery. This could be due to:
a flat battery (ruled out)
a break in the wiring
high voltage drop across the positive wire (assuming the ECU is negative-grounded)
If you don't get a click at all, then I'd think that the signal isn't getting to the starter motor, so either an immobiliser problem as you suggest, or a problem with the switch as per JPhi's comment.
If you can get at the starter, you might be able to attach a multimeter probe to the signal wire (the smaller of the two wires going to the starter) to see ...
With very old aftermarket electronics the only real thing that can be done is removing the system. With aftermarket electronics there is little to no support, no replacement parts and no predictable failure mode.
Before you drive your self insane or get stranded somewhere when the system fails altogether, remove the immobilizer system.
If you immobilize the starter motor, then the start motor wont run, so even if you put the vehicle in gear there will be no movement.
If you disconnect the fuel pump, the starter might start and run, if you engage the gear (depending on the vehicle) it may move a little distance too.
Could you please provide little more details on the use case for ...
So i followed DucatiKiller's answer and sent it in to the dealership. They have no clue to what the problem can be - but are changing the starter. We will see how it will work out.
New update ! ! Edit ;
So they changed the starter and it worked about 1 month, and then it just went complete dead.. So it went back in, and now they have changed the ignition ...
Experience with other vehicles means you will need the computer / linkcable / software (not an aftermarket one but usually a dealer level) that matches your vehicle and that will be able to code your ecu to your car. Not a function usually possible with aftermarket readers that are used to extinguish the engine service light for example.
Definitely sounds like immobilizer system.
The r/s interface handles that and apparently does so successfully. So we know the immobilizer system in the car works if supplied the correct information.
These seem like the likeliest possibilities to me:
Keys somehow got dumped from programming, not a common issue with Hondas and not something that occurs ...
The very first thing to do with this is get your battery checked. Then if bad, replace it. Then when you have a working battery, check the charging system. Make sure all battery and charging system cables are cleaned and not defective. This can not be diagnosed until these steps are taken and done properly. It may even solve the problems.
If this happened right after you re-cased your key then the most likely possibility is that you have damaged the transponders antenna on the pcb. They are very fragile. Generally the keyless entry portion is separate so it may still be working even tho the transponder is not.
I'm not all that familiar with Peugeot's since we do not have them in the states ...
None of the provided answers are specific about programming a replacement PCM to a 2000 Mazda MPV so I wanted to chime in for any future visitors needing help.
There are two things that need to be matched up when changing this PCM.
1. The engine calibrations (software that runs the engine)
You can usually buy the same part number computer with same software ...
The car is now fixed. The BSI (central computer) was totally reset / re-initialized and all is now good and well. The garage assured me that normally disconnecting the battery shouldn't leave the car FUBAR. They suspected the BSI had just entered some kind of extremely confused mode which demanded a hard reset.
So, I guess the answer was: Get the BSI re-...
There's an easy way to add a new key to the computer, as designed by the manufacturer. This information has been taken from this site -- all credit there.
Start with key out of the ignition, drivers door is open all others closed and drivers door is unlocked.
Insert key into ignition (Do not turn) and pull it out.
Perform these steps within 40 ...
So, I went on and ordered the tumbler part online. I came with two non-chipped keys. This morning, I got to the car to replace the part. As I mentioned in my update to the question, there is no problem with using the original key as a transponding element, while using the new key to actually turn the switch. However, I did not get any response to my question ...
I have a 2006 Honda Civic EX and experienced the same issue under similar circumstances and have since solved the issue:
1) Cold weather 2) Car was recently jump started 3) Receiving flashing green key indicator 4) Car starts then shuts off 5) Battery problems
I went outside one cold winter morning and the car was dead. Click click click. A friend of ...