6

I think you are looking at the wrong area of the car. If the electronics didn't come on, this is an electrical power issue, not a fueling issue. I'd check to ensure all connections are good from the battery, to wires, etc. Make sure your ground connection is clean. Make sure the battery is up to snuff (you may need to take it to an auto parts store and have ...


4

I would look into setting up a relay controlled by the ACC or RUN circuit. When the coil in the relay is not energized the contacts would connect the panel to the battery but when you switch the ignition on or to acc it would energize the coil and open the connection. Typical 5 pin auto relay would look like below: 86 : ACC/ON 85 : GND 30 : BATTERY 87 ...


2

This sounds like a spectacularly bad idea. Depending on exactly how the ignition is behaving when you "hold it at the crank" it may or may not be doing unpleasant things mechanically - if it (for example) is actually keeping the starter motor engaged you'll burn through that pretty quickly. But even putting that aside if you are holding the key in the ...


2

If you have the oval proximity key type with push button switch then hold the prox key next to/or push the button with the proximity key. This allows the switch to send enough power to the fob in order to activate the transponder portion. If you have the card looking proximity key then you can try holding it next to the twist knob or if it is still not ...


2

It sounds a lot like your ESM is bad (electric shifter module) or EGS (transmissiom control module). When you move the shifter does the PRNDL on intrument cluster display properly? It will not crank unless it knows it is in P or N. The EGS around this year have a bad problem of transmission fluid wicking up the wiring and filling the module with fluid. If ...


2

There are two possibilities, assuming of course that all the correct parts are fitted; compare dimensions and part numbers to anything removed from the car. Either, the distributor isn't turning or the LT side of the system isn't triggering. First thing to do is turn the engine over with the distributor cap removed and make sure that the rotor arm is ...


2

The battery seems like it has plenty of power, so it it likely being charged properly. The click you are hearing is probably the starter solenoid (electronic switch) closing, but either it isn't sending power to the starter motor, or it is but the starter isn't working. So it is most likely a bad starter motor, a bad starter solenoid or there could be ...


2

Changing the plugs is just fine. Coils are not maintenance. They are replaced as they fail. You might find it more beneficial to find the maintenance schedule for this vehicle and catch up on the routine maintenance that has also been neglected such as transmission fluid change, brake fluid change, coolant system flush and timing belt replacement (if it has ...


2

In addition to what @paulster2 suggests, following on from your comment - "I would turn the ignition on periodically after checking various things, like oil and fuses, to see it came back on...and one time, it did!" I would also be checking for a faulty ignition switch.


1

Ethanol is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs water, if there was moisture in your tank it could have mixed with the fuel and contaminated it. Mixing in fresh fuel may help the situation. However, if fuel was the problem there would probably be misfiring in more than one cylinder, however there's no harm in trying. I'd still be concerned about spark, ...


1

Effectively speaking, some automotive parts slowly wear or fail in a way that is predictable. For instance, we know that oil filters collect debris over time, so it's easy to predict when you will need to replace those parts based on how old they are or how many miles you have driven. For these parts, even if they seem to be working okay right now, you can ...


1

Yes, if you put the FOB in the tray the car will still start and hopefully after some miles driving it will charge. With the FOB battery discharged, none of the remote functions will work. If it's dead when you put it in the tray it may take a few seconds to come to life and allow the car to unlock.


1

You can't bolt a raw panel to a car battery, you need some sort of charge controller. But don't overthink it. If your solar charger is any kind of quality, you really don't need to worry about it. When the engine is cranking, the solar charger will "try to help", but its current is limited by panel output. When the engine is running, the alternator ...


1

Problem solved! (by my wife). It turns out (a fruitless trip to the repair shop [the battery and alternator are fine] followed by a further episode of non-starting) that the issue was that I had 2 keys: an original and a copy. Both mechanically turn the ignition lock, but with the copy the ignition fires and then dies after a few attempts after which it ...


1

Could be your key is extremely worn or the ignition lock cylinder is extremely worn. I suggest calling a local locksmith to replace key and code a new lock cylinder to oem biting for your car. Ford ignition locks are common failures. You could also try flushing it out with some wd40 but it would be a temporary fix at best.


1

From the information you provided it could be a couple things including the ECM as mentioned. But Im assuming youre using an after market scanner? and you may not be receiving all the fault codes. If you do replace the ECM it would need to be coded to the vehicle. I would suggest, as a first step, to get a dealer to scan the vehicle for faults. Or even ...


1

If you replaced the key and/or immobilizer ecu that is attached to the ignition housing then yes, The immobilizer system needs to be programmed. If you bought an un-coded ignition lock cylinder and matched it to your original key and replaced only this lock cylinder into your original housing then no, you should be good.


1

It is highly unlikely that you have damaged the battery. Are there any lights that are indicating that the immobiliser is active? I think that is most likely what is causing the engine not to crank. The sensor loop for the immobiliser is usually around the ignition switch, did you disturb it, or disconnect it?


1

The main culprits would be your Battery or alternator. Try checking you alternator and battery. Check if alternator is supplying the desired currrent to the battery to get charged. Also the check the battery voltage if it managing to dischage the desired amount of current while using the accessory. Additionally give a look on to rectifier - it rearly fails....


1

Here is an electrical diagram which should help you troubleshoot the problem. It's a very simple system. Check to see you have battery voltage after the fuse box, and then on the ST terminal of the ignition switch (with the key in start), and then at the starter solenoid terminal. I suspect you either have a blown fuse(s), a bad ignition switch, or broken ...


1

Stopped here after looking around without too much success for a good explanation about overheating due to lean burning in an engine. Here my two cents about the subject: 1- It is well known and documented that peak or maximum combustion temperature is lower as the atmospheric air/fuel ratio deviates from stochiometric, so a lean combustion generates a ...


1

I know this is a very old post, but I thought I'd put this here for others to use: I had the same issue with my '97 Accord after a head change, and it turns out there is a ground wire that goes to the intake manifold (Near the brake fluid reservoir) - Once I bolted the wire back down, the car started right up - Check this ground before anything else if ...


1

Ok, I've a 2008 honda city, same as the honda jazz with the cvt transmission and one day i was driving along and the engine just shut down, i cranked several times it wouldn't just start, i did everything possible, added more petrol, changed spark plugs changed the crank shaft sensor thinking it has failed becos I noticed the plugs were not getting any spark,...


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