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I suspect one of two things: Ignition timing, possibly a failed crank or camshaft position sensor. The "sudden" failure of the previous owner suggests this. There are two terminals in the diagnostic connector (OBD II) that you can short to establish base timing. You might try that and see if it makes a difference. Also, are there any engine codes? ...


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This sounds like a spectacularly bad idea. Depending on exactly how the ignition is behaving when you "hold it at the crank" it may or may not be doing unpleasant things mechanically - if it (for example) is actually keeping the starter motor engaged you'll burn through that pretty quickly. But even putting that aside if you are holding the key in the ...


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It is highly unlikely that you have damaged the battery. Are there any lights that are indicating that the immobiliser is active? I think that is most likely what is causing the engine not to crank. The sensor loop for the immobiliser is usually around the ignition switch, did you disturb it, or disconnect it?


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The main culprits would be your Battery or alternator. Try checking you alternator and battery. Check if alternator is supplying the desired currrent to the battery to get charged. Also the check the battery voltage if it managing to dischage the desired amount of current while using the accessory. Additionally give a look on to rectifier - it rearly fails....


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Here is an electrical diagram which should help you troubleshoot the problem. It's a very simple system. Check to see you have battery voltage after the fuse box, and then on the ST terminal of the ignition switch (with the key in start), and then at the starter solenoid terminal. I suspect you either have a blown fuse(s), a bad ignition switch, or broken ...


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My guess would be electrical connection loss due to heat. Remember that the "engine temperature" you're reading is the coolant temperature, and something farther away from the engine that isn't directly in contact with the block will take longer to heat up. Perhaps some form of wiring is breaking or otherwise losing contact due to thermal expansion, but ...


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The main issue with the ignition was that i was missing another High Voltage coil, but before knowing that i had replaced the capacitor, bolts, sanded everything clean, so the connections would be good. As of now, the ignition works, but my timing is a little off and I'm having a few problems with my carburator so, it hasn't been started yet. (I still have ...


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If you want to simulate ignition cut, you could run at + (or -) 180 (plus or minus your normal advance) so you'd fire the spark when the cylinder was at the top of it's exhaust stroke before the inlet valve re-opens (this is where the Alfa twin-spark competition cars run their secondary spark as any fuel remnants will be burned here). Of course that's ...


1

The front and rear coils may simply have different shapes due to their locations, otherwise their function is the same ie to generate a spark based on a given signal. As for can they be replaced by a generic ignition coil, that depends what you mean by a "generic ignition coil". If the replacement is made by a third party and says it will fit and work then ...


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The wording you have posted there suggests there is not a distributor. Instead, the IC calculates timings and triggers the ignition coil. If the bike needs full choke even when warm, it's worth looking at your MAP sensor and throttle position sensor to see if they are faulty. The various motorcycle forum posts on this also suggest looking at CKP, CMP, ...


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Why not a magnetic switch on the upper bonnet shroud below the windscreen? Use a black thing that you just put a magnet on as you get up to the car and the magnet is easily removed as well... For the wires just take the fuel pump relay control wire or possibly the ecu feed wire (that may confuse it though if you forget to put the magnet before turning on ...


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Almost certainly the ignition switch - they carry a significant chunk of current and over time the arcing between the contacts causes a black burned like residue to build up. This causes intermittent completion of the circuit and the symptoms you describe (the fact that holding it in position 3 "fixes" it is a dead giveaway). It's possible to take the ...


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I think you have a bit of a misunderstanding about how wasted spark systems work. In your statement, you are talking about two separate output voltages to fire separate spark plugs, yet there is only one output voltage. A single coil will fire two separate spark plugs at the same time. The two spark plugs will be located in "companion cylinders". In a four ...


1

While the Ignition Control Module (ICM) does pass along the signal for the coil(s) from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM or ECM or management system), it also controls the voltage input to the coil(s). This is a higher current then you want flowing through your PCM. If you tried to hook it directly from your PCM to your coils, you'd most likely fry the PCM....


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An easy way to narrow down the source(s) of parasitic draw on the battery is to measure the voltage drop across each of the fuses in the fuse box using a multimeter. This is done by bringing the probe tips into contact with the terminals on the face of the fuse. A non-zero voltage reading indicates that there is current passing through the fuse, indicating ...


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Give us more info please. Was the car running okay days before, did something happened? Usually few things are needed for car to start: Battery, timing, fuel, air, compression. If the car was running perfectly the day before and you just forgot headlights. Then most likely the problem is the car/battery you take power to jump start it, gives not enough power....


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Sounds like you drained the battery (the brake lights were probably on the whole time you had your foot on the pedal). Charge the battery or jump start the car and go from there.


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Some update on my situation, hoping it will help Carlos Thomas Murphy and others. During the past few weeks, I conducted the checks that SteveRacer suggested above and I decided to replace the fuel check valve based on that. Sadly, I didn't actually manage to do so yet (basically my car spent the last 2 months in service for unrelated reasons – had rusty ...


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Ok, I've a 2008 honda city, same as the honda jazz with the cvt transmission and one day i was driving along and the engine just shut down, i cranked several times it wouldn't just start, i did everything possible, added more petrol, changed spark plugs changed the crank shaft sensor thinking it has failed becos I noticed the plugs were not getting any spark,...


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