48

It is a turbo timer. The theory is that an engine with hot turbocharger shouldn't be immediately turned off. The turbocharger may be damaged because there will be no oil flow. The timer ensures that the turbocharger has managed to cool down enough by idling. Now, do you actually need the turbo timer? Probably not. The turbocharger is hot only after hard ...


7

Basically, your car has several circuits: Always On - Connected directly to the battery and is not affected by the ignition switch. This includes: alarm, interior lights, brake lights, headlights, computer memory (radio, ecu, tcm, bcm) Accessory - Items that the driver needs, but are not necessary for the vehicle to run. These include: radio, HVAC, ...


6

The brakes should still work, but without power assist so they take more force. Same for steering. I would shift to N and then brake while heading to the shoulder. I had a K1500 Blazer of about this vintage, and the steering wheel would not lock until the key was rotated all the way back to the "Lock" position, where you can take the key out. If the ...


5

Courtesy of a SNAPON document If the scan tool does not receive data from an OBD II vehicle TEST 1: Connect the positive DMM lead to DLC pin 4 and the negative DMM lead to the negative battery terminal, using jumper wires if necessary. Do not connect to body or chassis ground but to the battery terminal directly With the ignition on, voltage drop across ...


4

Wires carry electricity. Switches are mechanical contacts that disrupt / allow the flow of electricity. In all cases where wires and switches are involved, the wires allow current to flow from one place to another, and switches allow that to be controlled (off / on). This is a general and fundamental idea. Check out this primer on how electricity works, it ...


4

On the front of the aluminium body of the ignition switch, it looks like there is a small screw that will need removing. Looking at the photo of an ignition switch for your car on amazon - http://www.amazon.com/Ignition-Switch-Daewoo-Cielo-Part/dp/B013XF3P1E It looks like there will also be a similar screw on the back of the body that will also need ...


4

can I switch that electronic ignition starting with an old-school key? No. At least, not anywhere near 'easily'. That ignition switch, from what I can see, has about 13 low-current wires. At least a few of them are data lines (CAN bus!). It also directly controls the steering wheel lock (ESA lines). And another snippet: That's very different from an old-...


4

In nearly all situations, the way you stop if the ignition switch is the way you stop if the ignition switch is working: you stop pressing the gas, and hit the brakes. It's literally that easy. Power steering and power breaks will continue to work for a little while because they have built up a charge (as rpmerf points out, you usually get about 1-3 good ...


3

Yes it can be done. There are various options depending on the fault. I have got around every fault the ignition module can give someway or another. If the key turns and but the steering lock doesn't unlock you can buy a emulator for this and wire it to ignition live or have it on a switch. If the key turns, the ignition turns on and the starter turns over ...


3

Most ignition switches consist of two components: a rotary switch, and a lock cylinder (the part you removed the wafers from) that serves as the "knob" that turns the switch – but only if you have the right key. Broadly speaking there seem to be three possibilities here: After removing the wafers the key is free to turn, but the motion is not transferred ...


3

The brake booster will support a few pumps so use 'em sparingly if in such a situation. After that it'll get harder depending on the weight of your car. An MPV will barely slow down without booster, but a standard grocery getter doesn't take much muscle. The steering will get hard only when the car is slowed down to <15km/h. You're probably out of most ...


2

Based upon the information you've provided it sounds like the issue revolves around the ignition switch. It's inconsistent in it's operation and seems like it would be the root cause. If the ignition switch is the issue then part of the steering column and facade around the switch would need to be removed.


2

It is common for the ignition switch on this model to fail. It was the subject of a US federal government recall. The way this switch is wired, if it fails, it can supply power to some systems and not to others. It has one power wire in and four out. In the on position it powers many systems with the black/yellow wire, the heater controls are powered ...


2

Adding to rpmerf's answer, in cars equipped with an immobilizer they are an integral part of the ignition switch and electronics, so probably worth a mention. There's a few different types but the general idea is: A key with an RFID tag or something more advanced in it. A ring around the ignition switch, or other sensor at the switch, that can read the ...


2

This depends partially on the make/model of the car, but there are several different ways depending on what your goal is. With some newer cars, it's possible to feed data to the computer - although I really would not do that. The best way is going to be adding a relay to one of your circuits and having the Arduino control the relay. There are several ...


2

Look for corrosion at your battery cables and especially at the starter connection, and all electrical grounds. Clean off the corrosion with a steel brush if you can, replace the ends and lengths of wires if the corrosion is too invasive.


2

There's likely some variation between the setup in different vehicles, but here's how it's set up on my manual trans Mazda 3 - The button will put the car into the 'ignition on' state if it is pressed while the clutch isn't down. There's no interlock with the brake or gear lever. As such you could do this before your helper starts pushing, or while in ...


2

The "Blade Thingy" is pretty much just that a flat blade that connects the ignition switch and wheel lock with the ignition lock cylinder. When you turn your key in the lock-cylinder it turns this actuator that then turns the ignition switch. You probably can not turn it with your pliers because your just not doing it right. Try grabbing it, pushing in and ...


2

You'll need to check how your inverter/shore power is set up - some systems will only charge the leisure battery and not the vehicle's starter battery. Personally, I'd get a bigger 12v house-type fan and run that - you won't get a lot of airflow from the cabin fan, and it'll be noisier. I'd also look at getting insect screens for the doors/windows so you ...


2

The SBF-4 fuse in the main fuse box (under the hood, on the right side) controls the ignition system, and it was blown. To replace it, it needs a PAL-type fuse rated for 45A.


1

Sanding was obviously too aggressive. I recently fixed several switches by spraying them with DeoxIT. You don't even have to disassemble the switch, just spray & soak!


1

With out plating the copper is a much softer metal. It will wear a lot quicker then it is suppose to and will need replacing. I guess in theory, Once the contacts start getting thin then there could be problems with them getting too hot, maybe even melting the housing a little. I reckon the starter circuit would be the most worrisome.


1

Nice car, I've always liked that shape! Keep it rust free if you can. There is a phenomenon called dieseling, which is where an engine runs without the ignition system being powered up due to auto-ignition of the fuel in a cylinder. However, this requires a mechanical ignition system, fuel pump and carburetor or mechanical fuel injection. This can't be ...


1

To replace the cylinder, you need to pull the horn button, then unscrew the nut holding the steering wheel on. Once removed, wiggle the steering wheel back and forth (one side to the other) with some force and the wheel should pop off. Make sure to be careful as the steering wheel can pop off unexpectedly and you'll end up smacking yourself in the face. It ...


1

Your tech was correct - pairing a new key to an S40 involves turning the ignition. If it won't turn you can't pair the key to the car. You can't reprogram the key itself (to imitate the old one) as it's they car that programs to the key not the other way around. From what you describe about the sequence of events and how it not won't turn I think there's a ...


1

While it is possible for the ignition switch to cause your problem. I would suggest taking it to a shop unless you a comfortable diagnosing it your self. When the problem is happening check the S terminal at the starter. If you have battery power then it's the starter. If no power work your way back to the ignition switch. Be aware it could also be a ...


1

You can easily with a system of switches to replace the ignition switch or work in tandem with the ignition switch. These switches will act as your kill switch and can be controlled remotely through your Arduino. You will need the service manual for your vehicle and to examine the wiring diagram for the ignition switch. You will add switches that allow you ...


Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible