My guess would be that the assembly came apart for two reasons. The wear in the bearing caused some play between the inner race and the bearing shell. Some corrosion resulted in more resistance between the bearing mount and the knuckle than the bearing and the inner race. The result was the inner race wanted to come out easier than bearing mount. You did ...
If you dont have a powerful impact wrench, then yes break it loose on the ground with car in park or reverse if manual trans, or have a helper apply brakes firmly while you do it.
As Paulster2 stated it is safer to do it on the ground before you jack up the vehicle and put it on jack stands.
They may just be an artefact of the manufacturing process.
The hub looks like a casting, and if it was cast with a central hole to save machining time later, you would need to pour the metal evenly around the circumference to avoid eroding the mould at one point and producing an unsymmetrical part.
The bumps are probably the bottom of the "risers" and "...
No, any old 32mm socket works on Subaru axle nuts.
If you look at the photo you supplied, there is a notch in the axle (at about 9 oclock). The axle nut will have been hammered into that notch to lock it into place after final torquing. For that reason, it is essential that you always use a new axle nut if you take it off.
Some rotors have an M8 threaded hole to use for helping to remove the rotor from the hub (and brake drums sometimes had one or two threaded holes for the same purpose, but not M8...), but most just seem to belt 9 bells of s**t out of it with a hammer until it comes off.
The larger holes you indicate may well be for the original machining process or as a "...
I would measure the diameter of where the seal locates, the depth available for the seal and the diameter of the shaft.
Any good seal selling place can match a seal with that along with the speed of the shaft and its duty ie hot liquid, grease etc
Those measurements need to be accurate, at least 1 decimal place.
It depends on several things:
Is there a centre differential? If so then you get no drive to the rear unless it is a limited slip diff.
Can the rear drive train take the torque loading? Seen people do the same thing and snap the rear half-shafts due to sudden high torque - when in 4x4 and hubs are locked all four shafts share the loading.
Having said ...
From your description, it sounds as though you are spot on: the hubs were not tightened correctly by the last person who serviced them.
As for the maintenance and reassembly:
Completely clean the old grease off of the bearings (both bearings). Inspect the tapered rollers to ensure there's absolutely no bluing going on. Bluing is exactly what it sounds like ...
If you have 2 snapped studs then the last tire tech working on your car over torqued all your wheel nuts. The ones not snapped are probably stretched. They stretch and then fail. I'd replace them. And use a torque wrench in the future, not an impact gun.
I would presume they are talking about the same thing. Really the only things that can wear in the hub are the bearings and oil seals. It used to be possible to replace the bearings in the hubs on most cars, but regularly now, the whole hub has to be replaced, making the job a lot easier.
It is possible, depending on the design, that there could also be ...