From your wiring diagram the horn relay has only 3 contacts; 12v, horn, button. This layout dictates that the horn button should ground the horn relay and not send it 12v. This is because the horn relay does not have it's own ground. Sending the relay power may cause things to behave strangely.
The sending unit is a very old style. ...
No not at all, the horn is not gonna get damaged. My old Nissan Maxima once had a faulty hood lock switch and the alarm went off during night. The alarm was on for almost all the night and the horn was honking too, I knew it the next day when there was a notice hanging on my apartment door.
Check to see how many volts the horn relay is sending to the horn. if it's less than ignition voltage at the horn either the relay is bad or you have a wiring problem. If you have ignition voltage at the horn make sure it's not touching anything and check for a good ground to the chassis. Otherwise replace the horn.
Also sometimes the switch in the steering ...
On a fancier car with a very customizable body control unit, you might be able to see when the horn button is down with a CANBus interface, but probably not even then. OBDII doesn't deal with car accessories and is just there to expose engine related data.
Horns are too simple and are a required safety device that is not customizable so I would think they ...
If you can check on your own, then check the following
Fuse(s) for horn (check if they are not blown)
Horn relay (check if you can hear the relay getting actuated when you press the horn)
If horn relay is working fine, then you need to check the wiring from the relay to horn and if that is ok, check the horns
If relay is not getting actuated, then there ...
Well I figured it out. The issue was unrelated to the throttle body or any repairs I did.
The problem was because I completely removed my battery. Upon re-installing the battery, the cars passive anti theft system (PATS) was engaging. Strange, because I was never aware I had an alarm system.
1) remove car horn fuse
2) close door and lock
I did a quick check on the schematic and it appears that the two circuits are completely separated from each other.
I also noted that the fuel sender circuit number is 36 and the horn is 63. You might want to carefully review the schematic.
You really aren't understanding how a relay works or what it does. It states right in the quote that the control wire can only handle .25A and is very thin. The horn itself may require 24A or more.
When the relay is activated, it can transfer the needed amperage to the horn through wiring which is designed to take the load. There is only so much space ...
Yes, you must:
...get into relays etc...
With air horns you also have a compressor that powers the horns, these draw a significant amount of current at 12V and it's difficult to find a switch that is both easy to press and will handle the amount of current the compressor requires. This is why relays are almost always used for horn and other high-current ...
I would assume that the stock switch on the bike has a permanent live supply and switches the supply to the existing horn, if there the horn has an earth terminal then that is the way it is working.
To use the existing switch you will need a 4 terminal relay : the coil driven by your existing switch and a battery supply which is fused.
Edit based on ...
It depends what make and model of vehicle.
PSA after 2003, VAG after around 2005-7, BMW depends but all after 2008 have the horn controlled by the BCM (or whatever they each choose to call it). Many other makes may also have the horn controlled by the BCM.
So it is possible to see if the horn is actively being pressed through the CAN bus if the horn is ...
You will have to test the system logically :
1 supply - is it intermittent
2 switch for operation
3 supply to relay
5 supply to horn
7 earthing of horn but you can do this first as it is a common issue.
For testing use a test lamp or multimeter : lamp probably better in this case as it gives a more "visual" response when power is there....
Some horns have one wire (supply) and the earth is completed by the fixing, others have two connections (supply and earth).
All you need is to put a single pole switch capable of 6 amps or so between the supply wire and the terminal on the horn.
I suggest you do this at the horn terminal - you can extend the cable pair (also capable of 6 amps even 10 if it ...
I would replace the horn relay. Should be in the fuse box under the hood. If you have your owners manual can you tell us which fuse you pulled?the owners manual will indicate if the fuse had anything to do with the a.c.
It is because of the broken electric window. Mine does the same, trying to find out if the opel garage can disable it as it's very annoying when it honks twice while locking it in a parking lot. I disconnected my hooter but that is causing more of a danger than solving the loud honking noise when locking the car...