22

The maximum rating of 25A will be for continuous use. The 40A fuse is there to blow very quickly in a fault condition. If you look at this page https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge 2mm² wire will take 166A for 10 seconds or 633A for 1 second before it will fuse. So the 40A fuse will have blown long before the 2mm wire will fail.


6

Hopefully not a bad assumption, but I'm assuming you're vehicle is right hand drive (European). That said, to get to your resistor pack, there is a kick panel which has to be removed which is against the center console in the passenger footwell. The panel should be fairly easy to remove.once removed, locate the blower housing, which is towards the front of ...


5

I would suggest that you should find the source of the fault - probably in the wiring as you suggest as it could get worse and cause a fire (not the best thing in dense traffic with no place to go). How do I know - I have had to repair that type of melted wire / fire damage before and it takes time & skill.


4

Things may have changed, but I had this happen to my '94 Toyota Pickup. It was a bad thermostat. On that model it was built into the radiator cap. Basically, it gets stuck open and takes longer for the engine to heat up enough to operate the heater. Cold engine test: Start the engine. Time how long it takes the engine to warm up enough to produce heat ...


4

The squirrel cage has broken fin(s), or the motor bearing has gone (most likely on a '99), or the case has distorted -- all of which allow the unit to vibrate or slightly rub on a part of the case. If you remove the glovebox and plastic the kick panel underneath it, you can press various places on the housing and case to see if the noise changes... if it ...


4

Great post, it really helped me solve the same problem. I took some photos specific to the Nissan Note, I can send them if you want to expand the article. My problem turned out to be a failed solder joint on the resistor board. Firstly remove the glove box by taking out 5 screws (2 underneath and 3 on top) BLUE circles... remove the glove box and look for ...


3

Number 1; Oil consumption. That's a lot of oil. Start looking for a new vehicle! 2 and 3 are related. It could be a worn key; call the dealer and ask them to cut a new key (or try a spare key if you have one). If it's the switch, it's unlikely that you'll get one from a junkyard with a matching key. Talk to the dealer. 4 and 5 are related. Replace the ...


3

First thing to do is check the coolant level, low coolant, even slightly low can affect heater performance. Thermostat stuck open would make the heater air cooler once you started down the road as the increased air flow across the radiator would cool the engine down even more. You could have poor coolant flow through the heater core that gets better when ...


3

Your blower motor resistor module has blown. The fourth position provides 1:1 (full 12v) power to the fan. The other three positions provide reduced power, which allows the fan to operate at lower speeds. You can buy a replacement part relatively cheap online. This should be fairly easy to replace as well. It should easily be found under dash on the ...


2

My guess is that the ACC temperature sensor is getting wet, confusing it into thinking the interior is colder than it really is. If you have an "interior temp" reading on your dash, it probably uses the same sensor. See that it shows about 58 when wet and normal temperature when dry. If that's the case... find the sensor! If you don't have a service ...


2

Has it stopped working completely, or just on certain speeds? It's possible that the resistor pack ( the thing that controls the speed of the fan ) might have failed...


2

After a visit to the mechanic this turned out to be due to a cracked radiator. That caused coolant leak which led to heater not working. Will replace radiator. Check engine light that came on seems unrelated to this issue.


2

To elaborate on user4546's answer... The heater fan is controlled by a resistor pack located somewhere under the dashboard. This usually has 3 resistors for settings 1, 2 and 3, with setting 4 being a direct connection. With time, these resistors burn out and need to be replaced - and they almost invariably burn out in order, so setting 1 will fail first, ...


2

The blower motor should have two wires, one is a ground fed by a mechanical or solid state resister/HVAC computer. The other is fused power, this may or may not have a relay. Check for power on one wire and variable ground on the other. If you're missing power check your fuses again you may have missed one. If it has a relay try swapping it with another ...


2

This hasn't happened with any of the cars I have owned over the last 22 years - which is a pity, because one of the things I would have liked is designed functionality to do what Erik vanDoren mentions - setting the selector between positions to try and get this to happen. In my more recent cars (last 10 years or so) it is impossible to get this to happen ...


2

here is a clear picture underthe dash of a right hand drive fiesta. it may be the same for older fiestas but this one is a 2011


2

If you can move the wiring and the blower motor turns on disconnect the connector and look for proper fit, burned wires, loose terminals etc... It may just need a new harness connector. If the wiring is burned replace the blower motor as well as the connector.


2

When it only works on high, this is a sure sign the blower resistor is blown. The resistor "does work" at the slower speeds by limiting the power which will flow through. It's direct power on high speed. When the resistors fail, no power at all goes through these. This is a very common problem on GM vehicles when they get a few years on them.


1

Another factor to consider, from the point of view of electrical design, is that a circuit with a load that never exceeds the wire rating under normal conditions of operation can be deemed incapable of causing overload i.e. you don't need overload protection. In this case you only need to protect against a serious fault such as a stuck fan motor or a short ...


1

As with all things, correlation doesn't necessarily imply causation. Though in this instance it seems to be the case. Looking at a wiring diagram the two components don't share a power source unless you go higher up the tree. But then you'd have more than two components failing. Maybe they were and went unnoticed. They do share a ground however, G200 in the ...


1

So I found the issue with the heater was a fried plug. I got a new plug re wired it clipped it in and all systems go. But then as I went up the road I could smell burning plastic so I stopped and unplugged the new plug, and found that one of the male pins was ready to break so now I need to replace this..


1

The blower has a resistor which varies the ground circuit. Which is how you get different fan speeds. You should have battery voltage at the blower motor connector. Your problem is most likely the blower motor. But you could also check the price of the resistor and maybe just change both.


1

It could possibly be the blower motor, but before replacing it, you'll want to see if that is actually the problem. Considering you've changed out the resistor pack already, the blower motor is a likely problem area. Usually when it goes out, it will let you know about it well beforehand. A fan doesn't normally just "die", so you'd probably have heard ...


1

This sounds like a voltage drop. The most likely candidates are: the heater resistor the heater fan These components are usually located right next to eachother, in the footwell if the front passenger. The resistor can be electrically tested using a multi-meter (measure the resistance through all combinations of connections), the fan too. Also check that ...


1

It's on the drivers side, just above the pedals, a nightmare to get at. Get a telescopic mirror with lights. This helps big time. I didn't remove any panelling. Lay the drivers seat all the way back lie upside down with your head in the footwell, it can be done. Once I remembered I had the telescopic mirror it only took about 15 mins. This is for a Ford ...


1

Sounds like a bad blower motor resistor


1

It's a year later. I never had the problem again. I've had the Jeep for a full year in plenty of crazy hot and crazy cold weather. I'm going to assume that when they replaced the windshield washer nozels, they accidentally unplugged the power to the fan. Then they fixed it and were embarrassed to say they made a mistake. If anyone else experiences the same ...


1

I would bet you're right about having to disconnect hoses, but don't know for sure by just looking at an image on Google. If you do have to disconnect the A/C hose, you should take it to a shop which will be able to completely remove all of the refrigerant from the system prior to opening it up. After you get the hose off, you'll need to get a new drier to ...


1

In your fascia fuse box: Fuse No. 2 is for the AC/heater blower relay. Same fuse box you have two rows of relays, with three relays each row. There is also a smaller relay on its own, call that the bottom row. The blower relay is on the top row of relays, number three, and is directly in line with the smaller relay at the bottom.(Sorry- no picture). Fuse is ...


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