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8

Probably not. The engine is going to be running faster than normal to make highway speeds in 3rd, if she got going fast enough it was probably pretty loud. Depending on the vehicle there may be a rev limiter to prevent the engine from running at too high a speed. Teach her to hear what the truck sounds like when it is time to shift if you can.


6

There are two main reasons: So that both sides of the brake equation are equal. This means they are both starting at the same place again. When you purchase brake pads, they come in sets for both sides. Since you have to purchase new brake pads anyway, you should put them on there or it's a waste of money.


6

The only reason for replacing both at the same time is so that they brake evenly. This is more essential on the front of the vehicle. If you were to stamp on the brakes in an emergency, you wouldn't want the car to swerve into oncoming cars because the brake on one side of your car worked better than the other. Edit - make that 3 reasons if you add ...


6

You broke the knuckle. It's hard to say what else is damaged, but the knuckle, wheel bearing(s), hub (may be a single assembly) and lower ball joint need to be replaced. It may need the lower control arm, possibly the upper ball joint as well. You'd need an alignment after all is said and done. It also looks like you could use some sway bar links.


6

If you do a search for a 78DT battery as on the label on your battery, you will find that it is a dual terminal battery. It has 4 poles, but one of the top ones in your photo has a cap on it. If the cables on your vehicle will reach to the top poles of the existing battery, then you should be able to replace it with a ‘normal’ 2 pole battery with suitable ...


5

On the 97 Sonoma the controls are electronic and send a signal to a vacuum switch block which will send vacuum to various valves. This is from a corvette but is similar. While the switches on the control panel can fail more commonly the vacuum lines, check valve or vacuum reservoir will fail first. Locate the vacuum source line and measure engine vacuum. ...


5

There are three places I can think the water would be flowing out of from the back area of the engine. The engine in your Yukon should be the GenI Small Block Chevrolet (SBC) engine (I believe they started putting LSx motors in them in 1999). The SBC has water passages through the intake manifold at the front and back of the engine. If one of these passages ...


5

See Ben's answer for parts you likely damaged. In order to conduct this repair, the tools you will need are: large size (bigger than 15 mm, 1/2 inch drive) deep sockets 1/2 inch drive breaker bar (24 inch long) 1/2 inch drive torque wrench (one that goes to 100 ft-lbs) large size wrenches (bigger than 15 mm) floor jack (either trolley or bottle type, make ...


5

That light indicates the Exhaust Brake feature is active and will work to slow the vehicle when your foot is taken off the accelerator. The picture is meant to be a throttle plate in the closed position (the horizontal line with the dot in the middle) and air being stopped by the plate (the vertical lines). Here is a question on another site that describes ...


5

My experience with vehicles I have owned over the years with this case I would say dirty connections on main battery leads remove your battery connections clean the battery posts to a shiny metal state also clean the inside of the cable ends to with the proper cleaning tool if this does not fix problem check other ends of cables for dirty ...


4

In the end the mechanic discovered it was caused by bad oil, it was not head gasket problem, just clogged drain on the front end of the engine and nearly clogged in the back. So, when the vehicle was tilted forward, the oil failed to drain, and was forced through and burned off.


4

Looks like I may have answered my own question last night. I did a deep clean on the throttle body (and as far back in as I could access). The idle is HUGELY improved, though still not perfect on this 28° morning. Is that really all it was? I'd love to hear your comments if you've had the same experience.


4

Answer in progress. California Consumer Protections Although California Civil Code (section 1793.03) specify three-year minimum (seven years for sets or appliances priced $100 and up) for electronics and household appliances (regardless of warranty), I could not find similar provision in that particular law for the automotive parts availability. However, ...


4

You have a leak in the system. You can't use the pressure to tell if you have the correct amount of Freon. If you were using a recovery machine that weighed the amount of recovered Freon you would see that you are loosing Freon. Not only is Freon leaking out, non condensable gas (ie air) is getting in. This is causing your pressures to look right even though ...


4

H11 Bulb connectors are readily available from Ebay sellers, but will no doubt be available from an automotive shop. They usually come with short wires fitted, so you will need some way of connecting it to you existing wires after chopping off the old connector. The best way of doing this is soldering and heat shrinking some insulation. An alternative to ...


4

As far as the 4wd thing goes, this is normal operation when on dry pavement. You are actually causing the transfer case to bind. This happens when the steering is hard over. The bind comes from the difference while you are turning from the front wheels to the back wheels. The transfer case is designed for the vehicle to go straight. You shouldn't notice it ...


4

With that much line replaced, it's going to take some effort to bleed. Somebody has to sit and pump the brake, while somebody else works each bleeder nipple starting at the furthest from the MC (probably right rear) to the nearest. Another option is to slightly crack all nipples on all calipers (rear cylinders probably on a 98 Jimmy) and just let them ...


4

If it is not obvious from where it is leaking, your best bet is to go on a car wash, and clean the engine as much as you can. Leave the car dry, fill up the coolant, and then try to replicate the issue. Also before you try to replicate the leak, it might be a good idea to remove any plastic covers from the top and the bottom of the engine.


4

The cracked bell housing would not be preventing the flywheel from turning as an automatic transmission doesn't work that way. The engine is not physically coupled to the transmission from a driven aspect. The torque converter uses fluid sheering to do its thing. If the engine isn't running, there's nothing there. Something caused the cracked bell housing, ...


4

That orange thing is a lock. Pull it straight out and you can depress the tab. You see those and other style locks a lot on GMs.


4

Yes, it is an accurate statement. The first troubleshooting step I do when diagnosing any issue which is in response to trouble codes is to clear the code and see if it comes back. If it doesn't come back, the issue was a "fleeting" issue, meaning to me as not something to really worry about. Along those lines, considering your truck is relatively new, the ...


3

Along with what @Zaid said, which I agree with, there are two other aspects to worry about: Antilock Brake System (ABS) Traction control (I'm not sure your Sierra has this, but it bears mentioning) The problem with the ABS is, with that much of a difference, your ABS will believe there is a fault with the system and shut it down or might believe the ...


3

Your torque convertor has a convertor lock-up clutch. When reaching a nominal speed and engine RPM the convertor comes on and locks the convertor forming a slip free drive. When you use kick-down or near full throttle acceleration, the convertor clutch unlocks. This allows the stator in the convertor to allow torque multiplication and give the vehicle its ...


3

In your case if it's diesel it has a turbo, if it's gas it doesn't. At least from the factory. Now that is specific to the year make and model in your question. As for what they look like. Nick has a good explanation. In this picture it's just to the left of the long green tube in the middle of the picture. That tube is connected to the turbo by a short ...


3

In my experience, washer jets tend to clog at the actual jet - first thing I'd do is get a thin needle and try to clear the jet itself.


3

Here is the schematic showing how the mega fuse should be wired in, you obviously don't have the second battery option but that mega fuse is on vehicles with only one battery as well. You can tell for sure by checking the option label (approx 3x5 inch white label with black writing with a bunch of 3 digit codes) in the glove box. If you have ZM9 listed then ...


3

But if it's my starter shouldn't I hear a noise Not if the starter solenoid is stuck. This is the piece of metal that connects the circuit and allows the starter motor to receive power. It's usually pulled into place magnetically, thereby connecting two terminals and powering the motor. When solenoids age, they tend to stick, or, in some cases, physically ...


3

As was pointed out, the outer diameter isn't quite the same, but it's not a major problem. The sole distinction I would be worried about would be load range. For example, an E350 van most likely wants to have a LT, E load rated set of tires installed. However, if the tires on your Savanna are P rated (i.e. not Light Truck), I would not install those on your ...


3

Heck yeah! Short answer: Replace the check valve. Long answer: There is a check valve between the vacuum reservoir and the rest of the system. What that does is help the vacuum reservoir hold more vacuum. Your engine won't have enough vacuum "force" to move the heating ventilation doors without the reservoir. The check valve is that little black and ...


3

Make sure the cam and crank signals are good. Also check the reluctor for the crank and cam sensor.


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