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5

The drain plug will be part of the housing of the transmission. This is the closest image I could find: Note this is not exactly for your car, it's for an '07 Fusion 6 speed auto transmission. So it's not exactly correct, but I'm hoping that the '06 and '07 are close enough that this gets you into the right area. The pic and any other info you might want ...


5

The chances of you driving to match the government specified "city" cycle, well it won't happen... Your city drive may not have the variety that the "city cycle" assumed ie X percent of highway, 3 stops etc etc. The mileage you are getting is down to the route you drive and the time you drive it. I used to have a long commute and if I left early ie on ...


4

Turns out there is a pinhole on the passenger side rail/rod (see photo below). Procedure: Raise the headrest as high as it will go. The headrest must then be lowered slightly until it clicks into the topmost groove. (This step is crucial) Insert a paperclip like object into the passenger side pinhole and press in the button on the other rail. While ...


4

Prius Gen4 (2017) apparently can go up to 72 mph with electricity only: https://priuschat.com/threads/what-is-the-max-ev-speed-no-ice.161545/ (message #5). However, that doesn't mean the tiny battery can propel the car forwards at that speed in all conditions. It just means the motor-generator 1 (MG1) won't overrev, because if the internal combustion engine (...


4

It should look something like the following picture. The flats for the wrench are at the bottom so you may not be able to see them depending on the location. They also might be covered by a heat shield. You use something like the tools pictured below to get it off.


4

TL;DR If your car is advertised for 36 city and you are getting 32-33 then the discrepancy is only about 10% which is apparently really good. Even at 31 mpg it is just a 14% loss. Fuel economy is derived from dyno testing in a controlled facility, at controlled temps, controlled load, controlled resistance, controlled dust, and immaculate shifting. This ...


3

I wouldn't worry about this - car companies stop producing car lines all the time. When a company makes big changes to a car line, moving from one generation to another it's essentially stopping one line and producing another from a support point of view. When they make these changes they always honor their warranties because 1) it's the law (at least in the ...


3

First and foremost, check the fluid level. Ensure it has enough, but NOT over full. Check the transmission lines to the cooler (radiator) to make sure they are not damaged or pinched off. If there are no obvious physical issues that you can see, it is time to have it serviced. They can check internal fluid flow and pressures. I don't think it is a sensor ...


3

There isn't going to be "stock" wiring to support what you need. This means you'll need to run additional wiring (of your own) to compensate. My suggestion is to do the following: Run the necessary wiring in the gauge of wiring of your choice. A 10A circuit can be run off of 16AWG wire, but I'd run it a bit higher ... something like 12AWG. This is a bit of ...


3

If the engine is capable of breathing mixture and spinning at the higher RPM, it should be producing more power than at lower RPM. Means it's likely getting eaten up somewhere in the drive train before it gets to the wheels, and the most likely candidate for that would be the torque converter as @Zaid suggested. Do you have a scanner for your car? Does the ...


3

This is not a bug; it's a feature. I have a 2016 Toyota RAV4 hybrid. According to NEDC, it's supposed to get 5.0l/100km highway and city. I can match this in the city if driving very carefully and driving long non-highway distances during a warm day (not so hot that A/C is needed), but the highway mileage cannot be matched at real highway speeds. I ...


2

So I did some digging and managed to find a PDF of the entire wiring diagram for the 2014. I'll post a OneDrive link below for anyone who wants to download them. They also contain dashboard disassembly instructions and whatnot. Amp Location: Right side of trunk. If you have the amp, it seems that the speaker wires are the same colors there as in the front ...


2

Most manufacturers tend to be fairly consistent with their stereo wiring, so it ought to be the same as other modern Fords. A quick googling reveals This site, which suggests the following: Power Memory (+12v Constant) Green Yellow Ignition (+12v Switched) Yellow/Black Ground (-) Black or Fat Red Illumination Orange ...


2

The "default" speakers in your car should be bi-wired ones. The 6-speaker layout in your car should have 2 speakers in the front, 2 tweeters in the front and 2 speakers in the back. The speakers in the back of your car should only have 2 strands each. The 4 strands of the connector on the front speakers are composed of two strands for LF - low frequency (the ...


2

There are two possibilities here as I see it. First, it could be that the thermostat is bad and stuck in the closed position, not allowing hot coolant to flow into heater core. You could easily check to see if this happening by first finding the heater hoses which route from the engine through the firewall of the engine compartment. With the engine warmed up,...


2

Yes, they need to match exactly. The two part numbers are not interchangeable. The mechanical difference between the two is in the Brake Pressure Modulator Valve. The 6E5Z-2C215-AA (w/o AdvanceTrac) is a 3 circuit setup. The BPMV can send fluid to the left front, right front and combined rear wheels. It contains 3 dump/isolation valves, the pump, pump ...


2

Head gaskets, I'd say. Are you the original owners? If so, take it straight to the dealer. The car has a 3-year/36,000 standard warranty, and a 5 year/60,000 powertrain warranty. If you purchased second hand, contact the dealer anyway - but I'm not sure which/how much of the warranty can be transferred. Failing that, at least take it to two other garages ...


2

I believe if it says that it fills WSS-M97B51-A1 (which should be in your user manual) specifications then it should be perfectly fine. But if it does not say it, it may still be fine (see info below) It looks like your original antifreeze is HOAT (yellow) and the green one is IAT. The IAT has a lifetime of 2 years so you will need to change it earlier. ...


2

In brief, these tires are shot. They need to be replaced very soon. It appears they not only have some rubber chunks missing out of them, but they have some very irregular wear patterns. This could very likely be due to an alignment issue with the suspension or possibly some worn out suspension parts causing a misalignment. When you do put new tires on ...


2

It sounds like you have 2 problems at first blush: the car's overheating light comes on even when the car's been sitting, and the car won't roll even though it's started. However, if I remember, newer Fords have a computerized gear selection system rather than using mechanical linkages, so the 2 could be related if there's a computer fault. Or it could be ...


2

Firstly, are you sure the full depth of the hole is clear? Try poking something smaller than the bolt (e.g. the shank of a next size down drill bit) in there to make sure there's nothing blocking it. Next check the thread - can you see any damage to it? Looking at the lengths of the two bolts, it's only going in a couple of threads before it gets stuck, so ...


2

I drive very carefully and efficiently, accelerating slowly and using the EV mode wherever I can. But I can only drive so carefully before I start getting honked at by other folks for driving too slowly. I think that's your problem. You should drive like an average person, because that's what the car is optimized and tested for. As an example, you would ...


2

B1318 is low battery voltage P0841 is a code for the transmission fluid pressure sensor (TFP) P0410 is a code for the secondary air injection system (pump malfunction) P049 is not a valid code, they are always Ptxxx. The first digit 't' (type) is always a 0 (generic) or a 1 (OEM specific). Perhaps you meant P0449 which is EVAP vent valve/solenoid. NONE ...


1

What engine have you got? Even better, what compressor have you got? (drop down in the engine bay and check the label on the compressor). Your issue may simply be a faulty AC clutch coil relay. Find it, identify the relay and then replace it. Begin with the simplest thing, the relay. It's the cheapest fix. You'll have to look on the net pretty hard to know ...


1

I took it to a shop. They shifted the subframe but the biggest difference was made when the discovered the steering gear was shifted to one side because someone before them had taken the steering wheel off and adjusted it. It's now in perfect alignment.


1

This sounds like it has been in an accident or severely hit a kerb. You need to get a full chassis check to find which points are no longer in the correct position. One way of approaching this at home is to drop plumb lines from each of the recognised points (usually from info in the workshop manual) and marking them on the garage floor. As you connect all ...


1

I only have 2012 info, but perhaps it helps. However, if only part of a LED lamp is not working, the issue is likely a failed tail lamp assembly, which is probably not easily repairable. Is it the entire running lamp section that isn't working, or just some LEDs around the outside? Do the brake lights and turn signals still work? Try turning on the ...


1

If your vehicle does not have CA emissions, you won't be able to register the vehicle in CA. There are a few exceptions: Obtained as part of a divorce, inheritance, or legal separation settlement. Purchased to replace your California-registered vehicle that was stolen while you were using the vehicle out-of-state. Purchased to replace your California-...


1

If anyone comes across this for a 2011 Ford Fusion SEL. The issue was fixed by ensuring the transmission fluid levels were correct and more importantly a SOFTWARE UPDATE was done. Magically, the transmission ran a lot cooler.


1

The common thread here is that all of these items are electric – so it sounds like you are intermittently loosing electrical power. I'd suggest starting off by getting codes read, it's possible that a controller will be logging power loss events and that there may be some clues in that. Since the power goes off and then comes back on there are three ...


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