Fuses do not need to be replaced unless they have blown, so it's not a regular maintenance thing.
In terms of checking them, depending on your vehicle, many only require a visual check to see if the metal is present or missing.
If you do have fuses where their status is not obvious, a good multimeter is only a few dollars (probably cheaper than replacing ...
As a general maintenance practice or a troubleshooting method without having a particular reasoned approach, no. If it's troubleshooting, testing the fuses on their exposed blade tips is equivalent.
That said, replacing the fuses shouldn't create any risks so long as you're replacing them with the appropriate values.
It should be pointed out that fuses ...
Traced this problem to a fuse under the dashboard, located in the middle horizontal row right most fuse. Turns out this fuse is the indicator fuse and when this fuse is blown the indicators won't work but the hazard lights still work.
This was the solution in my specific instance but there are two other possible faults which could be to blame for indicators ...
Legend to Codes
E/G - Main is the relay for the Radiator fans.
EFI - Is the electronic fuel injection relay.
DIM - is the headlight dimmer relay.
H-LP - is the headlamp relay.
MG/C - is the air conditioning compressor magnetic clutch relay.
ST - is the starter relay.
Replace them all? No. As others have mentioned, they're either working or they're not. Test them with a multimeter or fuse tester. Be sure to look for "fusible links" in the wiring on a newer car, not all fuses are in the fuse box anymore for some unfathomable reason...
Take them all out, one at a time, and clean them? I've had that help on some ...
It sounds like your shifter may not be seating into park correctly. You may want to try moving it back and forth from gear into park (occasionally, with a slight amount of force; you don't want to break anything). Verify that the key is not in the accessory position, and each time you switch to park, try to remove the key. I've also seen the key release ...
A fuse blowing indicates something is wrong. This could of course be a transient that just requires a fuse replacement or a trip reset, but what if it's something more serious, like a short allowing high current to flow through sensitive components, or to ignite something flammable? Or an indication of failure of an expensive part.
A self resetting trip ...
I can't find the fuse location for the 125cc
The loation of the fuse on the 49cc version is in the battery compartment.
From the manual
BATTERY AND FUSE.
THE BATTERY HAVE TWO TYPE ：REFILL WATER TYPE AND SEALED TYPE.
REPLACE THE BATTERY, PLEASE TAKE OFF LEG SHIELD CUSHION, UNSCREW THE TAPPING SCREW AND REMOVE THE BATTERY BOX LID, YOU ...
Yes. You'll often see optional components in manuals and circuit diagrams. That simplifies the documentation process. Often there will be provision for those components in the actual manufacture of the car as well.
So beneath that fuse is a wiring terminal. It's obvious that your terminal got pushed in so far that the fuse spades no longer touch anything.
The good news is that everything is in there. The bad news is you will have to dissemble everything and reseat the wiring terminals on the inner surface of that fuse box cover. That could be very ugly depending on ...
It is very likely that the two relays will be the same configuration, since their positions can be interchanged. But, there could be differences. One thing you can do to check is to read the part numbers on the relays. If they are the same, then the relays are the same and there is no problem with switching them.
The trick to reading the numbers is that ...
Had the description a little wrong. Added how Chrysler describes the power outlet system with annotations in ().
The power outlet on the instrument panel marked with
a battery receives battery voltage from a circuit breaker (PTC7 - Integrated circuit breaker) in the Integrated Power
Module (TIPM) at all times. The other power outlet on the instrument
In a word: pliers. Seriously, if the fuse is already trashed, grab it with a pair of needle nose pliers however you can get ahold of it and wiggle it out. It may self destruct further in the process, but you should be able to get it down to where it comes out.
The fuse box is designed for all vehicles and positions only used as needed for each vehicle.
First check if those empty fuse slots have terminals in them, without terminals adding fuses does nothing.
Then check the legend to see if that item or function is fitted or valid for the vehicle.
Example : A fuse position can be provided for diesel heater plugs ...
Or will each appliance receive exactly what it asks for?
Conversely, if I connected this fuse tap and cigarette lighter instead to a lower amperage, like 10, what would happen if the cigarette lighter asked for 15 amps?
It does not ask, it takes, so it would burn the wire supplying the 10 amps, unless it is fuse protected somewhere else.
Safest bet is ...
So rather embarrassingly it turns out I was missing the obvious all along. The spares and fuse extractor are contained within the lid of the engine fuse box. Undo the clips on both sides, take off the lid and flip it over:
The fuse puller is narrower than the ones you can buy at Halfords, which do not work with the shape of the fuse box on the new Altos.
If it was me, I'd wire the live supply to the multimedia system to the switched live (ie the 12V when the key is on) and not always live (direct to the battery)
That is a simple fix.
It does seem a bit strange that the current draw from the multimedia system is so high when off, though, so you may want to check the system and see if it is behaving ...
I would get some insulated crimp butt connectors and a good quality crimp tool to ensure you get a good connection. Ensure you use wire thick enough to match the existing wire.
Like these - http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/crimp-butt-splice-terminals/0534648/
and a tool similar to this - http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/cable-crimpers/4992313/
If you stagger ...
Here is the difference as far as I can tell. The "long base" has an additional power distribution portion. You can see it here in these two images.
Cooper Bussmann 15600-04-20 (short base):
Cooper Bussmann 15600-04-21 (long base):
These (obviously) are the four fuse block models. Eaton makes the Bussman to handle up to 20 fuses.
Did you try looking in the battery compartment area? Sometimes those fuses will be directly wired into the positive battery cable (those smaller scooters typically have a single fuse I think, don't quote me though).
Yes. Use a different type of fuse tap. If you used one like the one below, you could bend the tang over and run the wire straight down and out of the way. (Note: You're looking at just the brass part here.)
2 possible causes I can think of.
Dimmer switch had been turned all the way down or the dimmer part of the switch is bad. You can still turn on the dome light even when the dimmer part is inoperative.
Fuse for instrument Cluster is bad, I think it is Fuse #15 (7.5amp) on that model. Interior fuse panel.
It seems very odd that your system drags so much of power . I would not recommend to directly connect to the ignition switch. Instead you can attach a relay in the following manner: (apologies in advance for poor drawing )
If it's one of those large square-ish type fuses with the clear window on top for something like the alternator, it's probably screwed in at the bottom (out of sight). Check out this video (albeit for a Camry) for an idea of what's entailed. It'll be frustrating but totally doable if you take your time.
If I'm ...
Fuses keep changing, glass fuses used to be the standard and, on cars, there were only a few ratings 5A, 10A and usually 2 or 3 circuits that were fused.
Now circuits tend to be controlled by various computers : engine control unit, body control unit, gearbox ... the list goes on. But the circuits for these only require low currents 1, 2 or more amps so the ...
There are a few products that could be readily adapted to this. Electronic Specialties makes a "Fuse Buddy Current Loop" and Painless Wiring makes a "Fuse Loop." Both are designed to let you read circuit current using a clamp ammeter, but you could splice a toggle switch into the wire loop.