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1

There is a MUCH easier way to resolve this issue. I know this post is older, but admins, please advise future repairs to give this much easier method a try. Drop the exhaust on the truck/van, and access to the top of the fuel tank is a breeze. It took me about an hour, and I’m no mechanic, to replace my fuel evap hose on my 2006 Ford F-150. Once the ...


0

I just finished a faulty evap repair on a Mazda 3. I'd like to share the experience. 2008 Model Year, Mazda3, manual, 2.3L engine. Check engine lamp, read codes P0442 (Evaporative Emission Small Leak) and P0455 (Evap Emission Large Leak) Read up on line. Most likely source is fuel cap, followed by engine compartment mounted purge valve. Test purge ...


1

They can be, if the working range covers the pressures required for the high and low. The ecu will decide if the reading is within range.


2

So I figured it out. No go on using removal tools. I have access to a couple of different sets, but there isn't enough room. And no, you don't squeeze the sides either. The black plastic housing is way too stiff. I played around with it. I ended up using two screw drivers, one to push the white button, the other to GENTLY pry the connection away ...


0

This type LOOKS like you should press the white tabs but, in fact, that does not release the connector. You need a FUEL LINE REMOVAL TOOL that slips over the line, pushes the tabs holding the line OUT, and then allows you to remove the connector. Here is a video showing how these work: Fuel Line Removal Tool You can find these tools at any auto parts ...


2

That connector you squeeze the black part outer ring on two sides so that the ring moves out in two places to clear the white ears. From looking at the top photo - it shows the two white ears or pins. And, good idea to clean first...


1

Because the motor fires and runs briefly using starting fluid, the starting and ignition systems can be presumed to be OK. The truck's problem is fuel flow. You've shown there's fuel at the fuel filter, but you need to go farther and check beyond the fuel filter. Somewhere between the fuel filter and the cylinders themselves fuel isn't flowing. I don't ...


0

The fuel pump is connected in with the oil pressure warning light and the seat belt switch so that the fuel pump wont keep pumping gas when the Ignition is only in the ON position and the engine Isn’t running… so a diode had to added in on the low pressure side of the oil pressure switch to eliminate any feedback. If the wiper and resistor the resistor give ...


1

Some tank / sender combinations rely on the clamping ring to also provide the ground connection. We had one model of car that had so many issues with this (paint, corrosion) that we would solder an earth point to the sender and run a direct earth to the body. Sorted those fine...


1

I agree with the above. The most likely cause, is the tank not being grounded if the sender only has one cable. The tank may be installed with soft pads between mountings and chassis, so should have a grounding lead somewhere. If the tank relies on the mounting bolts making the connection, they may not, with or without pads. The ground lead is often a second ...


4

I would bet there's an issue with the sensor grounding out when it's installed into the tank due to it staying pegged 100% of the time on the dash.


2

I used above formulas to create below gnuplot helper functions vol_eff = 0.8322 f_time(x) = x/1000 f_rpm_to_rps(x) = x/60 f_mbar_to_kpa(x) = x / 1000 * 100 f_celcius_to_kelvin(x) = x + 273.15 f_imap(rpm, press_mbar, temp_c) = f_rpm_to_rps(rpm) * (f_mbar_to_kpa(press_mbar) / f_celcius_to_kelvin(temp_c) / 2) f_maf(rpm, press_mbar, temp_c) = f_imap(rpm, ...


3

Is there any way to check for physical obstruction? I'm wondering if if the float is getting caught on a baffle that's stopping it from moving through it's full range?


1

There is a relay box under the right side of the dash, the fuel pump relays are in there.


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