14

While the other two answers were ones that were going through my head while I was waiting for the service truck to arrive, the actual problem was much simpler (although much more expensive to fix) The engineer initially looked in the radiator coolant overflow bottle and saw it was at a sensible level, but after having a quick look at the oil dipstick he ...


14

The purpose of the fuse is to limit the current in the wire to prevent it from overheating. That could cause the insulation to melt or even start a fire. The other components in the circuit will (should) also selected to handle the same load. So, for example, the accessory outlet should also be able to handle a 20A load. The bottom line is that nothing in ...


11

The fuse is for the entire circuit. There may be other things on that circuit, sharing that 20A fuse. Also, the gauge of wires used in a circuit is part of the "safe" current limits (maybe why your 12V outlet has a 10A limit), while the fuse is there more for current "spikes" rather than steady loads. I'd stick to the manufacturer's recommendation of a ...


10

Is your Check Engine Light on? That's a rhetorical question, what I mean to say is that if your ’04 Forester is in good tune, it really should not produce that much carbon monoxide. Also, there are really no long-term health hazzards of non-chronic carbon monoxide exposure, other than death. (It binds with red blood cells in a way that prevents transport ...


9

From a technical service bulletin regarding the 2014 Subaru's: If you receive a customer concern of a “beep- beep-beep” sound when trying to operate the PRG, a likely cause is an incomplete initialization procedure. Repair Procedure: With the ignition “OFF”, open the PRG manually using a fluid motion (no light flash or beep should occur). ...


9

It sounds to me like you 'windowed the block'. When you lost oil pressure, you were at highway speed, so your engine was spinning decently fast, and every revolution without oil does more damage. I think the light noise was rod knock and lifter tick, the pop was the rod breaking and making a hole in the block, and the cloud was the oil that was left in the ...


7

They make a head gasket leak detector kit to determine if it's leaking. I would be surprised if you mechanic didn't have one. If he or she doesn't they are not that expensive. Here is an example below See my answer here for more info.


7

I am leaning toward the water pump. The cool radiator and heater core are a sign that the hot coolant is not being moved around. Coolant should always flow through the heater core while the temperature is turned to hot, regardless of the thermostat. It could also be the heater core is clogged ( or heater core valve not working) and the thermostat is stuck....


7

My son had an engine failure on a 2015 WRX, same exact symptoms, connecting rod broke and punched through the engine block on the top side, breaking open an oil galley. 10K mistake after playing with turbo boost, ouch!


6

Paulster2 offers sound advice when he says the pads need to be replaced sooner rather than later. I recently took a picture when I performed a brake pad swap that offers a stark comparison of what you could be missing out on. The new pads for my BMW measured 10mm at the thickest part. The old pads were roughly 2mm, thin enough to cause my brake pad wear ...


6

2mm of friction material is not much. I would suggest you change the pads as they have. They may last a bit longer, but at what point are they going to go metal-on-metal and greatly reduce your stopping ability? At any point, the last little bit may flake off and cause this situation. It could run for 5000 miles or it could last 5 miles? Are you willing to ...


6

Pending code? The user manual for your device says it should say "PD" for pending codes, so maybe not. "P0130 P" isn't a valid DTC for your vehicle so pending code is really all that makes sense. More specific to your model P0130 is front oxygen sensor circuit range/performance problem (Lean) Possible causes: Open wire to O2 Sensor Short to ground in O2 ...


6

How old is the battery (if it has a date stamped on it)? If it is over five years old, I'd replace it as a maintenance item. Remember too, a healthy battery should actually be over 13vdc at rest and fully charged. If your battery was only reading 12vdc, this is an indication of a weak battery to me. It may have a bad cell and accumulate what I call a surface ...


6

No, exploding axles are not a normal thing. Return to the shop that replaced them, there should be a warranty on them. Either: the axles were defective the axles weren't installed properly the axles were the incorrect ones for your vehicle


5

Check the overflow tank on the radiator when the car is overheated. If that tank is full, you've probably got a blown headgasket - that's how I spotted mine. For the thermostat; did you buy an OEM one, or after market? Foresters are very particular about the thermostat, and ONLY the OEM ones work reliably.


5

You might be misinterpreting your tire pressure indicator light. Usually the light comes on when the tire pressure drops below a certain level in at least one tire. I've not heard of one responding to too high a pressure, but I suppose it's possible. I think your pressure indicator light may be indicating a problem with the tire pressure sensor system ...


5

Not to be contrary to @JoshCaswell, but I'm seeing as how the left front/right rear are the same motor, as is the right front/left rear. Using the numbers he gave, I'm seeing the following as alternate parts numbers: FL/RR: 61188FE001, 61188FE002, 61188FE021, 61188FE022, 61188SA011, 62113FC100, 62188SA000, 62188SA001, 62188SA002, 63113FC100 FR/LR: ...


5

To me it sounds like your thermostat may be stuck in closed position. Hints that point to this are no heating in the car top of the radiator was cool radiator cap, no steam came out , A simple test is to remove it and put it in boiling water. I hope this solves your problem since thermostats are relativley cheap and easy to replace at home. Here'...


5

Sounds like the temperature sensor is broken. A new one is $40-$55, and it's a 30 minute job to replace if you've never done it before (it lives behind the grill in front of the radiator). Not uncommon for these to fail on Subarus and give weird readings. Following Paulster2's comment, here's an image of what the sensor looks like; In this image (of a 2007 ...


5

Do you have a test probe? If so, check that the buttons are sending a current to the motor's relays. If you've left it in one position, it might be a good idea to use a silicon spray into all the grooves. If this doesn't work, pull out the door cards and directly supply the motor with 12DCV from either the battery or a test probe (preferably.) If it's ...


4

It sounds like a bad head gasket if everything else is in working order. Hot gases are introduced into the cooling system under load(hence why it goes down when you let off).


4

Either the owner's manual or a repair manual will give you this information. I happen to have an owner's manual for a '98 Forester, and the value given there is 6.2ℓ, or 6.6 U.S. quarts. The factory service manual for a 2000 Forester gives 6.0ℓ, or 6.3 U.S. quarts. It's possible that the owner's manual value includes the coolant in the reservoir (that's the ...


4

My local Subaru dealer tried the same techniques you tried, and also tried to replace with a normal Forester window unit. Unfortunately here in the UK the STi is an import from Japan, so their conclusion was that they would need to replace the entire module - so hopefully I have one coming from Japan and will get it next month. Apparently there is not a lot ...


4

Those symptoms could well be caused by an air leak allowing unmetered air into the engine. This would cause a weak mixture when driving which could explain the lack of power and the cutting out. It would also explain the revving when stopped because idle is primarily controlled by limiting the air intake into the engine. Check all the air pipes, including ...


4

The pictured tape, or any double sided tape for that matter, will fail quickly. Even the industrial 3M VHB tape isn't worth spit, under the hood. Zip tie or find a natural crevice for it if possible and the leads are long enough.


4

The ring gear is more likely than the starter. Remove the starter, inspect its gear and then rotate the engine one full revolution while looking at the ring gear teeth. This is not a common problem. The starter is an easy part to change as long as the battery is disconnected as the first step. Replacing the ring gear is much more work as the transmission ...


4

Your brakes are pretty much done. You won't truly be able to tell how much friction material is left until they are pulled apart, but really, there isn't much left. One thing you can look at is there should be an indicator on one end of the brake pad which is affectionately known as a "squealer". When the brake pads get worn enough, the squealer comes in ...


4

On a properly designed circuit it should be safe to plug in a 20-amp device in the lighter port - the fuse is supposed to be the weakest link in the circuit so the port's wires should be able to handle at least 20A. This doesn't mean it will work, as there may be other stuff on that circuit that would draw current as well so that the fuse may blow even if ...


4

Had a similar problem, open the hood and look under the wipers. If you have a plastic tray under the wipers, sometimes the drain hose gets clogged with trash and needs to be cleaned. In my case it poured under the glove box until fixed.


3

OK - I see from your comment above that the overflow tank is still full. In most cases, if you have a blown head gasket, you'll be losing coolant. In can go into the main crankcase, in which case your engine oil will show the effects of coolant and oil mixing. The oil dipstick will have a mottled, milky appearance. In can also go into the exhaust system - ...


Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible