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If I had been handed this "basket case". I'd simply get a (car/truck) manual that has the wiring diagram in it, and patch it back together. I'd also wager that a search for "year model wiring diagram" will turn up some possibly better diagrams that you'll find in the manual. HTH


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Check the battery terminals. My old Mustang had a tendency for the terminals to get corroded. Cleaning (wire brushes) the terminals on the battery and clamps on the ends of the cables was usually enough to regain good electrical contact.


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There are a number of possible reasons for the noise, from the hub/wheel bearing mentioned above, to simple loose lug nuts.


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That may well be a loose hub bearing, especially as you say the noise disappears on braking. Take this in to be seen to ASAP as in the worst case you could loose the wheel...


1

You are right to be paranoid about a new (to you) car. You are getting to know your new vehicle ... you just won't know about things, so ... With that said, I'd say it's pretty uncommon for a "brand new" car to have a smell like you describe. If it truly was a burning rubber smell, it more than likely came from a belt, but could have been a lot of little ...


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You've got transmission wind-up. Try reversing, in a straight line if possible, for around 10-20m.


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Two things you can try: shift back to low, drive 10 feet (3m) then shift back to high and drive 10 feet, jack up one front wheel (assuming 2wd is rear) and rotate, well the amount of free play, in both directions while someone goes from hi to low and back to high, Either may be sufficient to "free" the mechanism. If not, then you have to check other ...


1

I found two part numbers for you: Standard Motor Products - PN: S685 WVE/Aiirtex/Wells - PN: 1P1005 The end of the Standard Motor Products looks like this:


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It's possible the noise is unrelated to the crash. Check your pulleys and accessory belt tension—sometimes those can chirp.


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If you are getting air out of all but the dash, ordinarily that would be an indication that there's a blockage of the dash vent. But you say you can cycle the selector and eventually get air out of the dash. That sounds to me like a problem with the selector system. I'm assuming your car is now out of warranty. If it was me, I'd pull the climate control ...


1

Drop the glovebox; it's on a bracket on the HVAC housing.


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The rust you can see is usually dwarfed by the rust you can't see. A lot of cars have rusty rockers and wheel arches because of the way manufacturers used to construct these parts, which was basically two pieces of sheet metal (inner quarter panel and outer quarter panel) folded together and spot welded. Because it was spot welds, and not a continuous seam,...


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That could be from either of two sources: most likely, this is from the oil that is in the incoming air to the turbo, from the crankcase ventilation system. The outer housing is bolted to the backing plate and the clamping force may not be even around the periphery. the high pressure oil feed - that banjo bolt is usually sealed with copper washers and may ...


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In a word: Absolutely. There's no reason not to be able to use full fledged petrol. In order to be flex fuel capable, it has to know how much ethanol is in the system and adjust accordingly. It will know you have little to no ethanol in the system, which will allow it to make the changes to keep it running right.


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I wouldn't do it long term (if nothing else you're going to be doing interesting things to the block with the temperature differentials) but in the short term you should be okay. The piston will still be moving in the cylinder but since it's a four stroke engine it will still be getting appropriate lubrication. You'll probably want to take it easy so as not ...


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If what you're talking about is the support which goes between the transmission and transfer case, then no, that does not need to be replaced. It is a solid piece and should be subjected to no wear. You will want to replace any gaskets or gasket material which goes between them, though. Since you've got the whole thing out, it's a good time to reseal these.


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It isn’t your wheel bearings. If they had been causing the vibration 50k miles ago they would have completely failed many thousands of miles ago. It’s not the brakes, you feel that when you’re braking, a warped rotor will cause the pedal to pulsate under your foot. If it’s a bad enough pulsation you may feel the entire car judder. It’s more pronounced at ...


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