Hot answers tagged

17

What you've been sent is the radiator for the diesel variant - as opposed to what appears to be the 1.25l Zetec petrol engine in your first diagram. You're correct in that the "main" radiator connections are the same between the two (Despite the confusing placement of the lower hose on the second diagram it is the same hose and hooks up in the same place ...


17

Both that disc and pad look perfectly normal to me, although I can't see from the photo how much material is left on the pad - but with only 25k on the clock I would expect them to have plenty of life left. You will always get light corrosion on the discs when the vehicle has been sitting for a while (as little as overnight if the weather is damp, a few ...


8

I'm going to disagree with my esteemed colleague about whether they need to be replaced. While there is no profile view to really tell the depth of what is left of the pad, it looks to me as though it's on its last legs. In the pad photo, if you look at the left side of the pad (by your fingers), it looks as though you can see metal wear, as though the pad's ...


7

From your description, it sounds like you have a plugged catalytic converter. The glowing red exhaust pipe and lack of power is what would clue me to that.


5

Clean it. There's an old saying when working on engines: A clean engine is a happy engine. That goes outside as well as in. The grease and grime isn't good for the engine. By cleaning it up, it allows you to see new leaks as they happen. It's just better to have a clean engine. Use soap/water if that's what you have. You can also use degreaser if you want ...


5

Yes you can clean it out, but as always, there are some things to be aware of in the process. Use carb cleaner, not gasoline. Do this not only because it will work better, but for safety reasons as well. Brake cleaner would work well, too. When cleaning, you're only cleaning the pocket end (end away from the electrical connection). What you'd be doing is ...


4

Its probably not the fuseable link; more likely is that the starter motor needs to be shimmed. The starter motor has a small gear ( the pinion gear) which sticks out on a shaft to engage the flywheel. if the pinion gear doesn’t stick out far enough, it will spin but not turn the flywheel. The starter will test fine on the bench. Sometimes the pinion ...


4

I can't read the tag very well but I assumed it was K2 which should be this car's color(Smokestone). If thats wrong theres only a few other blue options (Amparo Blue:G, Blue Print:T, Capri Blue:L, Imperial Blue:Q, Ink Blue: I, Metropolis Blue:A, State Blue:H) Sources: https://www.remarkpen.com/files/documents/colorCode/fordeurope.pdf


3

TL DR: This isn't how it's supposed to be. They should be the same from side to side ... however ... However, stuff happens. As Solar Mike aluded to, things happen on the assembly line which can give you the wrong options. More than likely the dealership never even noticed, or maybe they did notice and that's why they made it the convenience vehicle. ...


3

Your premise of how the water got into the oil does not compute. It doesn't happen that way. The engine has holes in them called cylinders. Each cylinder has chunks of metal in them called pistons. Each piston has rings on them which seals the pistons so that the air/fuel and exhaust stays trapped in the cylinder. If water were to get into the cylinder as ...


3

It isn't integral with the rotors, but the bearings are integral with the hub itself. It comes as a unit, which attaches to the steering knuckle. The rotor is separate and attaches over the lugs (wheel studs) onto the hub. You cannot change out just the bearing itself from the hub, at least they really aren't made that way. This is very common on modern day ...


3

Check the rear stabilizer links. They are located between the lower control arm and the anti sway bar. They should look something like this: or this: They can have ball and socket joints or rubber bushings. If the joints or bushing wear out, you'll get thumping or squeaking. They are hard to diagnose because they are under a lot of compression when the car ...


2

When the car's fuel tank and associated plumbing are operating correctly, the tank will accept fuel as some reasonable rate out of the nozzle at the gas station; that's what you're used to. On the other hand, fuel nozzles (in the USA, anyway) are designed to shut off automatically when the nozzle senses back-pressure coming up out of the gas tank. What you'...


2

B1318 is low battery voltage P0841 is a code for the transmission fluid pressure sensor (TFP) P0410 is a code for the secondary air injection system (pump malfunction) P049 is not a valid code, they are always Ptxxx. The first digit 't' (type) is always a 0 (generic) or a 1 (OEM specific). Perhaps you meant P0449 which is EVAP vent valve/solenoid. NONE ...


2

I used a plastic suction cup, gold in half and super gluenit


2

Figured it out, CV Joint went out...


2

Aight, so I replaced my battery connectors this after noon along with the old battery, and she started right up. Thanks for the help


2

Congratulations on your Ford Triton modular V8, you are the first person (other than the other 60,000) to have this problem . . . I've fixed a bunch of these with the special repair kit. Pricey, but worth it. If you can drill out the center enough (the porcelain is hollow for the electrode) you can get a small piece of tubing, set the cylinder to BDC by ...


2

It certainly looks like a weld ( first picture). Stainless does not corrode ( significantly ) in an exhaust system. I suggest some kind of grinding to remove the fasteners. Most modern exhaust pipe is ferritic ( magnetic) stainless , not very hard because of very low carbon . But, the fasteners and weld filler metal may be something else , even austenitic ( ...


2

It should be the last but one box on the left column: Looks like T2 to me? Ford colour codes are a nightmare to find in the lists - as the same code can mean different things from year to year and model to model. If you give that code and your model/year info to a paint supplier they should be able to figure it out though. Failing that you can always ...


2

I've re-read your post a few times. If you cant turn the engine over without the injectors, assuming its in neutral and there are no other external impediments, then it does sound seized. Id have one last go at trying to turn it over by towing it. Towing it in neutral and then in gear with foot on clutch should confirm that the gearbox, clutch, brakes &...


2

I see a bulge in the tire sidewall. Do not drive on a tire with a bulge! The missing chunk is not an issue. The bulge is the issue. So, put the spare on and drive to the nearest tire shop to get that broken tire replaced. Don't start driving around with the spare; there's a maximum rated distance you can drive on the spare. Do observe the max speed as ...


2

Doing a parasitic drain test is quite simple, all you need is your multimeter (DMM). Remember to place your DMM lead to 'A' and 'COM' , use flat screwdriver to close the latch on your bonnet, shut all doors and wait for about 30 min. for the vehicle to go fully into sleep. If you see high current draw, let say 800 mA, start pulling all the fuses one by ...


2

You say you did a radiator pressure test, but you should test the whole system by pressurizing that. The system should hold pressure for several hours. Have seen this type of problem before where one of the hoses has a small pin hole in it and it only leaks when the system is fully hot. The coolant escapes as steam and leaves no trace around the hole - ...


2

The rust will inevitably get worse unless it is removed (sanding) and the metal sealed with paint. The main area to be concerned with is under the rocker panel, the metal there is much thinner than the metal on the bumper, and that's where the holes will develop. You've got years worth of use before holes develop in the bumper. I'm in the upper midwest ...


2

This is a sensor to tell you it's time to change your oil. Some are triggered at 3000 miles, some at 5000, depends on the year. check your owner's manual to find out how to reset it. It usually involves a number of steps.


2

From your pictures I can see the outer ~10mm ring of rust on the brake rotor. A small ring of rust is normal, but if you look at the brake pad you can see the arc ~8mm from the outer edge of the pad. This arc is from the pad riding on that thick ring of rust on the rotor. The shop was right to suggest replacement. You also said corrosion on the inside of the ...


1

There have been several slightly different "standards" for these markings for different models, but they show the engine power and gross weight (note, the gross weight is NOT the load capacity of the van, it includes the weight of the van itself plus passengers, fuel, etc). Most likely it means a 100bhp (or 100PS) engine and 3.0 tons (or 3,000 kg) gross ...


1

I agree with the other two posts. An easy way to check this, DON'T USE YOUR BARE HAND, but have someone get in the truck and hold the accelerator down slightly so that the engine is revving at around 1000 - 1500 RPM. Put on a good leather work glove and put your and in front of the tailpipe. If you don't feel much pressure then you likely have a plugged ...


1

Headlites, horn, turn signals, all the stuff alarm installers monkey with when they do an install. They install them behind the lower left side of the dash close to the headlight switch. Look for non-OEM wiring job and those crimp-on wire splices.


Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible