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56

There's probably no damage at all, the engine just ran at low revs for a long time. One issue you may have is if it ran out of fuel the line may have sucked sediment from the bottom of the fuel tank and drawn it into the fuel filter, which can clog the filter up. If you notice it's lagging a bit in the future what's what I'd look at. Fortunately fuel filter ...


14

I have an 08 ford focus that I haven't been driving. I just turn it on and let it run for about 30 minutes every few weeks so that it's not just sitting. Don't. Idling an engine is the worst way to warm it up. Also, if you do this because you want to keep the battery charged, the charger may not be able to produce as big current when idling. It's good to ...


14

Are you sure the gas station was open? I recently had the same problem and found that the lights were fully on at the station, the digital readouts on the pumps were glowing, but the place was actually closed and the station owner disabled the pumps. Many stations are closing earlier than expected due to COVID-19. If you are using a credit card to pay at ...


12

It looks to me as the battery has been boiled, meaning the alternator overcharged it. This has several implications: If the alternator overcharged it, then it will do so again. If this is the case, you need to have the alternator tested to ensure the internal regulator is fully functioning. Overcharging is as bad (or worse) than undercharging. You can do a ...


8

Short response: No damage - idling a car does not hurt it. Long response: That said, you shouldn't be idling it to warm it up/charge the battery/whatever. What I do with my cars in storage is put the battery on a tender. Then every two weeks or so, turn the key on to unlock the transmission (key on, not start), put it in neutral, and roll it a few inches. ...


7

If this is only affecting one front wheel there is something seriously wrong somewhere. I would expect a tracking problem to affect both tires. Possibly you have bent one of the links in the steering mechanism, or something is worn or broken in the suspension on that side of the car, so the wheel is "pointing in the wrong direction" or its camber is wrong ...


4

Looks like the green eye is leaking a tiny amount of electrolyte and the liquid layer on the battery collects dust. (Those green indicators are almost pointless, but they probably sell the batteries better.) The leak is minor and probably won't affect the battery performance. It is, however, probably enough to cause accelerated corrosion of the battery ...


4

Yes, foward motion forces air through the condensor improving cooling, but when the vehicle is stationary this forced air does not happen and you have to rely on the cooling fan or fans. If those fans are not working well that can have an effect as well. The forced air cooling is also or sometimes called ram air cooling.


3

As a priority - Checking and replacing worn ball joints is far more important than replacing worn bushes. If a ball joint separates while driving, then you will loose steering, which is obviously very dangerous. If the steering doesn’t feel smooth and there is free play in the steering, I would seriously get the ball joints checked before using the vehicle. ...


3

All looks very dry. Remove, clean and put some grease or petroleum jelly on the terminals. Otherwise looks very dusty.


3

I have actually seen an AC compressor on a 5.4 lock up so badly that the engine would no longer start. However, this was after the clutch had gone bad for a long time and the AC was not working at all for a while leading up to this. Also probably not a likely scenario. Most likely, the compressor clutch would stay disengaged if something were to happen to ...


3

You serial number is 246406900921 not 24640690091, try 1488 code found on this website - https://fordradiocode.eu/


3

That appears to be the one. For reference, here is what the oil pan should look like from the side for the 2.0L naturally aspirated engine (I'm assuming that's what you have): And this definitely looks like the side you're showing:


3

Yes, that's exactly what that appears to be. You can see it here in this image of the radiator. Bottom left.


2

To build onto @rpmerf 's answer, here is a visualization: In this example, let's say you have a SPARE unused Fuse slot, and the ALWAYS ON Cigarette Fuse slot. Depending on your manufacturer's recommended maximum amperage (my Cadillac CTS 2008 supports up to 30 amps in the front panel shared across both spares), you could use two Fuse Tap pigtails connected (...


2

I am a former accessory drive engineer at Gates. The squeal you hear can be due to a couple of reasons. Your belt has worn out. Depending on their construction, (usually either cotton, polyester cord or aramid cord), belts stretch 2-5% of their length and wear down deeper into the grooves. This causes their friction to change and results in noise. Check ...


2

Blue devil is great but not for water pumps.I have used it many times to repair head gaskets,hell even in rotary motors.But it does destroy water pumps. 2 brand new weiand small block chevy water pumps and also 2 other water pumps after it was installed.It always made them weap shortly after using the product.


2

If its the one I think it is. . .


2

Many years ago I had a similar problem, it turned out to be the boot light was staying on causing a small current drain. A very helpful garage mechanic climbed in the boot to find it.


2

It's part of an electric motor, I'm not sure what from though- I'd guess perhaps not automotive, the size suggests something like an electric drill or similar. Are there any numbers stamped or engraved on the casing?


2

You will need to check each and every bush, steering or suspension joint for play - they will need to be absolutely perfect as any play will be multipled due to the lift. Also checking all mounting points for steering components etc.


2

So I'll start by answering your question listed at the end. First off, while there is a small level of standardization amongst OBD2 reported codes, there isn't standardization as to what sets these codes. This information, generally know as the code setting criteria, is written by the manufacturer of the unit - say the engine. This criteria will differ as ...


2

That looks like the clamp or safety clamp for the spare wheel carrier. You might find it useful to search for an owners manual for the car online or second-hand as that will help you with many things you don't yet know about the car. This video shows how to use it - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ywj5W_YhHUk


2

Ball joints are the most critical component of your front suspension, they are the wheel's pivot point and where most of the forces are transferred from the wheel to the body of the car. There are other suspension components which connect to the wheel, however these are not sufficient to keep the wheel aligned or even attached, especially if a ball joint ...


2

In your previous question I warned about ball joints failing and that you should have them checked. I was not suggesting that your wheel will necessarily roll away from your car. Your vehicle appears to have a steering box with a track rod connecting the steering box to one front wheel, then a drag link connecting the steering of one wheel to the other. ...


2

You need further research: Measure the resistance of the solenoid: Around 5 Ohm is good, 0 or infinite ohm means the coil is damaged (or the fuse is burned). If the resistance appears to be fine you can test the solenoid: Detach the clutch plug and apply directly 12V (in line with an fast acting 5A fuse to prevent damage in a short circuit). If the coil pack ...


2

It sounds to me like you damaged the rear end differential. One way to possibly diagonse this is to jack the back end up, putting it on jack stands. Once suspended, rotate one wheel while someone else keeps the other side still, with the transmission in neutral. If you're hearing any type of grinding noise or metal on metal, you've probably got an issue. At ...


2

The fact that the gauges read empty when the tanks were empty and changed after the tanks were filled is encouraging, it means the gauges at least partly work. The simplest explanation is that they do work, and that they are accurate, just that they are connected to the wrong gauges. You filled one tank to 40%-ish and one tank shows just over a 1/4 full, the ...


2

That sounds like a squeaking ancillary belt (fan belt) to me. This belt drives things like the alternator. May just need adjusting, but may need replacing. Sometimes the noise changes when you add electrical load to the alternator by turning the lights on and the window demister etc.


2

The heater matrix (heater core) for the cabin heater is in that box. It is likely that the matrix (core) is corroded and will need replacing. It looks like it should be fairly easy to access it, unlike on some vehicles where you have to totally remove the dashboard. First thing to check is that the leak isn’t just from one of the two pipes that can be seen ...


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