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27

Your wheel is obviously leaking somewhere. There are a few places that you can have a leak related to the wheel The Schrader Valve - The schrader valve within the valve stem where you refill the air can be bad and require replacement. The valve stem - The valve stem where the schrader valve is in can have a bad a seal on the rim Tire Pressure Sensor - I ...


13

One way to determine where the tire / wheel is leaking, is to make a solution of soapy water and put it in a spray bottle. Take the wheel off the car, and coat the tire and wheel on every surface with the soapy water. The place where the bubbles are active is your leak. I have no doubt that one of the places @DucatiKiller mentioned will be the problem. Hope ...


7

The best way to find a slow leak is to put the tire under water and look for bubbles. Try to find a tub big enough to cover the sidewall with the tire standing up. Pump the tire up to about 35 PSI, and put the tire in the water. rotate it slowly and watch for bubbles.


7

tl;dr: Steering feedback means different things to different people. Ultimately, however, it's about using the steering wheel as both an input and an output device. At a very high level, the concept of steering feedback has to do with the user interface of the car. If we restrict the discussion to just the wheel in front of you, it's easy to imagine that ...


6

The Wikipedia link you gave says clearly that There are (at least four) different standards for the VIN. The EU and North America use different standards. The European standard does not have explicit "model year" and "plant code" fields. Characters 10-17 simply provide "clear identification of a particular vehicle". FWIW my Fiat (bought new from a ...


5

Looking at the large bolt holding the alternator (closest in the picture), then I assume the alternator will pivot on that if you release the smaller bolt on the other side of the alternator - just visible with a piece of metal that has a slot in it. That looks to be how you adjust the tension of the belt.


4

One possibility is that the turbo is sometimes over-boosting, which is being detected by the engine MAP sensor. The way that the engine ECU can control this over-boost to avoid engine damage is by limiting the amount of fuel injected into the engine, which would of course cause a sudden drop in power. The over-boost could be being caused by a seized turbo ...


4

Follow Paulster2's comment is to get a perfect result. But prior to going to a body shop or going to the scrapyard, you might try this: As the dent looks really clean to me, another possibility might be to remove the inner door trims and push against the dent from the inside. You might be able to reach the dent from the inside without too much parts that ...


4

With the damage which is there, a suction cup dent puller is not going to do the job you are looking for it to do. If there was only "dent" damage, the suction cup can sometimes remove them. When you have creasing, pulls, dents, and paint transference, you are going to need a body shop to get this fixed. Alternatively, you could find a replacement door at ...


4

Check the oil level!! Most important; do not run the engine until you replace the oil and get a new oil cap. The oil warning light is there to let you know of a dangerous condition; there is not enough oil or oil pressure. You said oil splattered out to the point the oil light came on, it is possible there is not enough oil left in the engine to safely ...


3

The noise could be a relay that is getting pulled in, then dropping out again – which would cause the clicking sound. Most cars have a load reduction relay, and there may be others as well, that apply power only when the ignition is on. Usually the clicking sound happens when the battery is very low, so it is a bit puzzling that you're hearing this when the ...


3

Two issues here: The wheel rims might be rusted or encrusted with dirt, which prevents a good seal between the wheel and the tire. In that case, the tires should be taken off and the wheel rims carefully cleaned, de-rusted and sanded smooth. The tires should then be mounted and sealed to the rim. There are various techniques for this, each with their own ...


2

As fog lights are physically different to 'ordinary' ones, you will have to swap bulbs and wires - my assumption is that the reversing light is in the equivalent position on the other side. If your light housings are transparent, then this is as simple as opening up the housing, swapping the bulbs over and swapping the wires over (either in the boot/trunk ...


2

An old PARKER'S guide to the Uno known starting faults says: Failed distributor vacuum unit. Two small wires inside distributor break after 8-9 years or 60K-70K miles. Crankshaft position sensor.


2

Check; 1 - Battery voltage is ok 2 - ignition voltage comes to the spark plugs (remove one of the s.plug caps and hold it close to a metal surface on the engine and ask your friend to crank the engine to see if spark exist) If there is no spark, refer to the car manual (ignition system wiring drawings) to see related fuse/relay/diodes. 3 - pressurized ...


2

You might want to try Multi ECU Scan. It's a free/non-free software suite that works with most, if not all, FIAT's. Most of the diagnostic tools can be accessed for free. Other tools require a licence. The licence is not that expensive so it could be worth the investment. In no way is this my software nor my company. I know about the software because I used ...


2

I'm famous by forgetting to refit the oil cap, I think I have lost, easily 6 or 7 of those since I got into driving cars :) No big deal, although it surely adds a lot of cleaning time. Just refill the oil to proper level and put a new cap. I'm even thinking about having a cap with a string or chain, like old engines, that keeps the cap hanging so I won't ...


2

According to page 165 of the owner's manual, there is a 20 amp fuse (F85) and a 30 amp replay (T31) required. These are located in the fuse box in the engine compartment. On page 162 of the Owner's Manual, is figure 169, it shows the location of the fuse and the relay.


2

It looks like you can see the metal part of the tire sidewall, which is a dealbreaker as it could lead to a failure of the tire. You need a new one.


2

You need a new tire. Find out how much the replacement would cost, versus the expense of claiming on your insurance (which will follow you around for years...)


2

Some value the service record being complete - in 5 years time “we missed that service because...” may not sound so convincing when you try and sell it... Do the 30k service, the “full service” by the dealer may not be a full service but a “quick look & inspect & top up”....


1

Take the car to the dealer where you bought it from, and save their time by telling that you have scanned already the error code. Really, if the car is brand new, it still has its warranty and the dealership should fix whatever problems you have. Your error code refers to the manifold absolute pressure sensor, which may be faulty. I suspect the dealership ...


1

Cranking the engine over to start the car takes significantly more amps that the draw from your headlight bulbs. What you describe sounds like a classic case of low battery. As you rightly say, this is probably because the battery is old and suffering in the bitterly cold weather.


1

A shuddering at a particular speed is usually a balance issue - the fact that it happens in any gear suggests wheels or tyres - most likely, you have loast a wheel balance weight. I'd suggest getting your wheels balanced (which any tyre shop will do for a nominal fee)


1

It appears from the images this should be a fairly simple job. The small center tab protruding from the back should have an interference washer (I don't know what to call it, exactly) which will be placed over it to positively capture it and hold the part in place. The first thing you need to do is get the old badge off. To do this, you'll need to place a ...


1

While I agree with vini_i, I have one other reason for this behavior: Fuel cut-off When the gas pedal is released at higher RPM, the motor doesn't inject any fuel to save some of it, and if the car has a display, it shows 0.0l/100km. (No idea what it shows in mpg unit) Below a threshold of about 1500RPM, the motor starts to inject fuel again to prevent ...


1

You have it right on the nose. When the car is idling there is fixed amount of air passing though the throttle plates and the rest of the air is controlled by the ICV or IAC (same difference). By controlling the air intake rate the idle is controller. When the car goes off idle the throttle plates control engine speed. At this point the IAC goes full ...


1

It is common to use an auxiliary fuse block near the battery for high current fuses. The power steering seems like a good candidate for this. I did a Goggle search for "fiat panda power steering fuse location" and found the manual page below that shows the location of the fuse in a fuse block under the hood on the driver's side outboard of the battery. The ...


1

So, I did some more looking around and found the owners handbook online that had the answer. From image 1 in questing. The left bulb is for day time running lights, the center is dipped/main beam and the right small bulb is sidelight. The setting "o" on control stick is daytime running lights. The "bulb" on stick is sidelights and the last is dipped lights....


1

As requested by @ducatiKiller, At first I though the issue was with a loose wire or faulty connection in the fuse relay box (turns out there's no cpu or fuse board of any sort in there) it's just metal plates stacked ontop of eachother. After much poking and prodding(and contact cleaner), it turned out that the case that held the two sides of the fuse box ...


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