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12

The first attempt at fixing the sudden shutdown issue was to replace the Electric Motor Cooling Pump. Since it was a recall the dealer replaced it for free. The picture pump above is the "out the factory model". The one below is the replacement model. There is an obvious size difference between both. You can find instructions on how to replace this pump ...


9

Yes, the air that is passed through the crankcase ventilation system is metered before it enters the ventilation system. If the pipe is off, un-metered air will be allowed in, which will cause a weak mixture and therefore possible misfiring.


8

When you start the engine and you hear the sound, does it sound better after the vehicle is warmed up? A rod knock will only sound worse (louder) as the engine heats up. It will not go away as the engine gets warmer. If it does, it is probably something like an exhaust leak which closes itself as the engine manifolds get warm. The opposite could be true as ...


7

Tires, or a front wheel has thrown a balancing weight would be my first assumption. Examine both front tires for uneven wear, "cupping" (scalloped depressions where tread gets shallow in evenly spaced pockets around the circumference). If the tires appear fine everywhere, it may simply be that a balancing weight has come off. After that, there might be a ...


5

The absence of a clicking sound indicates that the starter relay isn't energizing the starter circuit. Here are two possible culprits: Starter relay. It could well be that the solenoid inside relay is sticking, preventing the switch on the starter side from closing and turning the engine over. This would explain why you do not hear the starter relay ...


5

A bad alternator or battery is by far worse case scenario. When troubleshooting you should always start with the easiest and/or cheapest solution. These are more than often the culprits anyways, so best to save time and money. Check if there is a date sticker on the top of your battery. If it is more than 3 years old, have it tested. A visual check of your ...


4

Sometimes it is hard to tell the difference between a rod knock, wrist pin or piston slap in the early stages even when using a mechanics stethoscope. A main knock is a deeper sound that is more pronounced at the bottom of the block as apposed to the top when using a stethoscope. Hard knocks that happen at startup and go away quickly are a sure sign it is ...


4

I also have a 2014 Escape, and the reason for this is actually explained in the owners manual. The section under "Recirculated air", on. p.104, says the following: Note: Recirculated air may turn off automatically (or be prevented from turning on) in all airflow modes except MAX A/C to reduce risk of fogging. Recirculated air may also turn on and off ...


4

I spoke with a Ford dealership service technician and he said the most likely cause of this behavior was that the clutches were going out in the transmission. The recommended fix was a new transmission, or as I decided for a 2002 car with over 200k miles, a new car. On a side note, they said it shouldn't harm the transmission to continue to drive it like a ...


4

Easiest thing to do is call a locksmith, or towing company, even some cab companies are doing this now. They have a kit that will let them unlock the door. It runs about $40 here, call and ask for prices because it can vary wildly. Opening the hood is possible, if you can get to the release cable but it's very difficult on most cars. Finding a wire to put ...


3

I had looked at this and didn't realize it was an Escape. A friend of mine has one with the exact same problem. I would put money on it not being the sensor, but the connector you've cleaned. Not that cleaning it would have caused any further issues. This is a common problem with the Escapes. The easiest way to fix the issue is to remove the connector all ...


3

A bad radiator cap can explain this. If the cap opens at a lower pressure than what the cooling system is rated at then coolant will be released through the overflow tube once that pressure is achieved, which it will under normal operation. I would test/replace the radiator cap and see if that remedies the symptoms.


3

The easiest although not the cheapest method is to call a tow truck. They do lockout calls quite often. The method needed to open the hood without the cable varies. It may require bumper and grill removal. As @Larry has suggested call a tow service or find a 15 year old delinquent/hoodlum who will have the door open in less than a minute.


3

In my experience with automotive electrical, it can be very tricky to figure out, but the first most important thing is ensuring that you have a fully charged, functioning, battery. There are a great many oddities that can be traced back to insufficient battery performance. If you have not changed your battery in the past 11 years, it's probably time to ...


3

The ABS and traction will detect that the rotational velocity on all tires do not match the expected. A low tire changes the effective radius of the tire, and therefore the rotational velocity will be different in the wheel with the low tire. That is why you got the indicator.


3

I'd replace cracked hoses first, then repaired the master cylinder. Control arm and ball joints are also important, but if you drive smoothly around corners and are not planning a long journey it can be postponed a little. Alignment should be done after these maintenances are done. Then I'd turn my attention to the exhaust. But first, I'd go to other shop ...


2

There are a few things it could be. Dirt in the brake drums (if its not rear disc) Pads or shoes have been damaged or become worn Hardware has come loose and is getting caught as you are braking Rusted drums or discs You should get this check out right away before it causes expensive damage or you loose braking ability all together.


2

I had this problem and after looking at wiring diagrams was able to charge battery by connecting the charger to the large positive connection on the alternator. Leave your charger off while making the connection then plug it in with the positive on this wire that is under a rubber cover that can be easily pulled off. then connect negative to ground and set ...


2

The Escapes are known to have an issue with the seat connection on the passenger side. This is the connection which goes to the seat to see if someone is sitting in the seat (if nobody's in the seat, the pass side air bag won't deploy). Under the seat there is a wire which will go down from the seat bottom to about the middle underneath of it. Try to see if ...


2

If the bolt looks something like these photos: Then all you probably need to do is to tap gently on the top of the bolt (leave the nut on, but loosened, to protect the threads). A tap or two should be all that you need to get the bolt to drop down a bit and release the terminal clamp.


2

If this is what your battery clamp looks like: Take the nut off from (in the image) right side. Then take the small piece under the nut off. The bar which goes through there should now be loose. Take a screwdriver an place between the two sides of the clamp just outside of the battery post, then twist the screwdriver to loosen the clamp up. You should now ...


2

The B10A2 code is a general signal fault code. The Body Control Module receives a 5v signal from the Restraints Control Module. To be honest this falls into the area of needing a scantool and having basic 12v skills. You may be better off having the dealer (if under warranty) or a mechanic look at this for you. Try resetting the code first if it comes back ...


2

It sounds like you are dealing with two distinct problems. Firstly, the behavior you describe about the battery light coming on occasionally and the power steering going off would point at the alternator belt being stretched / perished / not correctly tensioned. The reason I say this is that this belt is typically responsible for driving the alternator and ...


2

Sounds like an incorrect diagnosis to me. Why would worn-out rear calipers, pads and rotors turn on the ABS light? The failure mode of these components should mean that you notice the problem even before the ABS light turns on. Of course, the final judgement will happen at the Ford dealership, but let's consider how hybrids differ from regular cars. Hybrids ...


2

WARNING: Using it in this condition could cause server internal damage to the engine, cause complete engine failure and/or strand you somewhere. Anytime the oil pressure light comes on, it means the engine is not getting enough oil. This is a serious condition and should not be ignored. There are few thing that could be causing this; Engine idle is too low ...


2

I agree with those in comments on the maintenance points. However, have you checked that you haven't accidentally engaged/disengaged overdrive? Toggling overdrive will change how the transmission acts at the upper RPM ranges. It may seem like a dumb question, but I can't tell you how often I've found tiny oversights to be the cause. That said, per the Ford ...


2

According to page 325 of the Owner's Manual, it uses Mercon LV ATF or equivalent. I know this to be true because I have an Escape also.


2

The springs will rarely if ever go bad, so should last the lifetime of the car. There are only two things which really affect the longevity of springs. First is if the shock goes so bad, there's no dampening on the suspension at all. If this was the case, there would have been severe road vibration and a lot of swaying going on before shock replacement. The ...


2

Im going to bet that you did not replace the IAC with a new Motorcraft brand. There is a large batch of aftermarket ones that are causing the exact symptoms you describe. You were probably correct in replacing it, but it needs to be a Motorcraft. I had a 2003 Ranger with a high idle complaint. With bi-directional controls, I was able to command the ...


2

Figured it out, CV Joint went out...


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