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There's an improved version of the 5 stroke engine. There are 4 videos on Youtube explaining this new patent. Search "olshammar engine" and you will find Part 1 to 4.


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First off don't disconnect the fuel lines on a diesel while the engine is running and don't disconnect them and then run the engine either. The system runs under high pressure and it can inject into you and potentially kill you if left untreated, at the very least you will lose a limb. The best way to get information on this case would be to plug in a scan ...


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For diagnosing an engine light or other dash lights you will need a scan tool to read the code and then from there you usually go on to read live data in the relevant control module and the last step is component testing to test the suspected faulty components. After this then repair and retest. When reading a check engine light though you to consider that ...


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Many auto parts stores will read the trouble codes for free. They use inexpensive code readers that aren't capable of reading manufacturer-specific codes. But they're free. If you want to work on your car, owning a decent quality scan tool is a very good investment.


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Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve !! The function of the PCV valve is to eliminate emissions from the crankcase and send them to the intake and therefore combust them again in another engine cycle, which makes the engine’s emissions cleaner and more effective. If you are a diyer, replace the valve yourself, it would cost you around 5-10 dollars. ...


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A complete answer for clio 5 sce 65 engine oil must be on the label : norm RN 17 , ACEA C3 , API SN . Norm RN 17 : Compatible for all engine gasoline (except RS and ALPINE) and for new diesel engines Euro 6 from June 2018 and Diesel not equipped with FAP. Backward compatibility on RN 0700 and RN0710 standards.


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Its a PCV valve in the valve cover, the neck has broken off in the hose, you can get a new pcv valve at most parts stores The link refers to the 1.6L engine, there is an option for the 1.8L engine also. It is just pushed into the rubber grommet, if the rubber is petrified due to heat and age it may be hard to remove and may have to be broken and removed in ...


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There's three things I can think of: Bad tune A stuck injector, or You've got a leak in your charge pipe. Soot indicates too much fuel (or conversely not enough air). If you don't find any leaks on the charge side, the mapping in your tune is dumping too much fuel, or you might have a stuck injector, also dumping too much fuel.


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The current spec is API-SN or SN+, either of which meets or exceeds all the requirements for your Renault. You can purchase Castrol if you like and I've found that often that brand is reasonably priced. Sometimes other brands are on sale.


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Large bolts are 85 ft.lbs, see diagram below for the rest.


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You don't need to know the manufacturer's specific torque specifications for every bolt in your vehicle. Beyond a few specialty threaded fasteners, you just need to know what size and grade or class you're dealing with. While cylinder head bolts should receive the manufacturer's specific torque application, motor mounts can use a more general approach. &...


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With the mileage, I wouldn't be surprised if the motor had a few oil leaks. IF you have a blacklight you can do an oil change with Molygen from Liqui Moly, run the car for a few days then use the light to illuminate the UV additive in the oil to help pin point leak locations. Molygen motor oil - https://www.ecstuning.com/b-liqui_moly-parts/molygen-new-...


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Ok, 9-10 psi, are you SURE about that? If so, this engine has a major problem. Generally the compression should be 90-100 psi or more depending on the engine. But you're nowhere close to that. Are you sure you're using the compression gauge properly? For an engine to run you need air, fuel, compression, and spark. You've addressed fuel and spark, and I'...


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So if I understand correctly, one of your radiator hoses (I'm assuming the UPPER one here since if it was the lower one, they never would have been able to fill it with coolant to begin with) was disconnected or (more likely) became disconnected at some point while you were driving. If that's the case and your engine overheated to the point of stopping, as ...


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The short answer is no, there isn't any leak stopper formula that will stop all the possible leaks. Your car is oozing, which is very normal after 200k miles! The longer answer is that the leaks could be coming from many systems: Engine seals Transmission/gearbox seals Power steering unit Cooling system Leaks can come from seals, loose or degraded hoses. ...


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Each gear has a minimum speed that it can cruise at without any throttle input. So unless you have a lot of load on the engine, e.g. climbing hills, your car shouldn't stall if you don't give it any throttle, and it'll just cruise at that minimal speed.


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