New answers tagged

1

If the block heater functions you will be able to feel the heat by touching the engine after 4-5 hrs,it is not a problem to have the block heater on overnight. If you are unable to feel the heat after multiple hrs the block heater does not funcktion so it needs to be replaced or it might be a bad connection before the heating element. Here comes a pro tip ...


0

Once every one or two years, my car needs nozzle cleaning. It loses power and vibrations appear. The best way is cleaning without removing nozzles and replacing spark plugs after it.


1

Oil consumption shouldn't matter whether in a high or low state. The engine will use it at the same rate. There is nothing there telling an engine: You're low on oil! Burn, baby, Burn! I would say, though, if an engine is run extremely low on oil, you'd see the rest of the oil in it come out faster. This would be due to an extreme amount of wear going on. ...


3

Squealing when you turn the wheel to go around a corner is almost always because the belt is sliding over the pulley on the power steering pump. This may be because your pump is dying (the bearings in it are getting stiff and causing drag, or other internal problems). It may also be because the belt is worn out or contaminated (say, by an oil leak) and ...


0

Scenario #1: Get your engine bay/compartment cleaned (pressurised air) by the qualified service station mechanic. If you are lucky it can be resolved by removing some obstacles between the fan wings and radiator/heatsinks; like dead rats or birds or other things like, wires or strings. Also, otherwise if the radiator fan motor bearings (one for radiator ...


1

Same problem here. New Ignition coil worked for me. The ignition coil wire was burned on the head under the plastic engine cover


0

This comports with my basic understanding of the term. On the other hand we are advised to adjust the chainsaw carburetor for power and not for speed, with power referring to best performance while actually cutting wood, under load. Adjusting for speed may result in too lean a mixture.


2

It sounds as though it could be one of two things. Either the fan is kicking on (the main fan) because the vehicle is up to temp and there's enough heat in the system. Secondly it could be the A/C compressor kicking on. When the A/C kicks in, the fans will kick in as well. You need to open the bonnet (hood) of your vehicle and pinpoint where the noise is ...


0

The oil light only comes on when pressure drops below 7-psi. It's not an oil level sensor. The car maker expects you to check that with the dipstick. If oil is leaking you've either puncture a hole in the pan, oil filter or you've got a leaking oil line to the turbo )if equipped)


0

My sons 99 LS1 Trans Am started to lose power after running fine to the last gear but then it would lose power and run the rpms 2000 at 35 mph. Yesterday, he stopped on the side of the road because it had a smell like something burning and a little bit of greyish smoke was coming from the back. He let it cool and made it home. No more smoke. When the ...


1

We "warm up" vehicles for a number of reasons: An engine that has sat will have had some degree of drain down - the oil will have drained off all the critical moving parts and won't be able to provide any protection until the oil pump has run for several seconds. Also, cold oil is thicker and has different properties than warm oil. Getting the oil pumped ...


2

My Kawasaki owner's handbook stated that it should not be idled for more than 5 minutes when started. However the dealer advised me to let it warm up for a few minutes (by idling, not revving), especially in cold weather. Partly so the oil can warm enough to circulate freely, and because of tight engineering tolerances in machined parts, which are not ...


1

For a late model car, you want to start it, buckle up, turn on the heater, radio and then drive with a light foot. Warming up a late model car warms the coolant, but not the oil. The fastest way to warm the oil and increase oil flow it to drive it, not idle it. See this post https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/warm-engine-winter/


0

There should be a programming button near the hood release lever. You should be able to use this to disable the alarm system and get your forester started. http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#code%20alarm


1

I've found that a "strap wrench" is useful in cases like this.


1

Put a long screwdriver through one of the holes in the pulley. Brace the blade end of it against the body of the pump. Place it in a way so the pulley won't move. Ensure the end isn't against something which will break (like something plastic). Then tighten the nut. There really isn't (to my knowledge) any real "tool" to get this done. You just have to wing ...


0

I finally managed to fix it. there were quite a few issues. The injector seal was not proper and 2 injectors were faulty. If the injector is not sealed(copper) properly, there will be compression loss. the car did start without MAF and some other sensors, but all major sensors were needed. The timing was not an issue as it was correctly done.


0

get your car ac expansion-valve checked by a qualified mechanic. if you had never seen that earlier in your car, get it checked for proper refrigerant pressure at both high and low sides.


0

That is totally normal. It's the AC line from the orifice valve to the evaporator (inside the cabin) which is supposed to be cold. It's common for these to frost up in humid conditions.


1

I was in the automotive repair business for 20 years. The simple answer is NO! However, it sounds as if the vehicle is still running (if the author is merely "afraid" it will "blow up" at a future time, and is considering working on it to get it to "last longer"). In that case, I'm wondering what has actually happened to the vehicle. This question makes ...


2

The battery seems like it has plenty of power, so it it likely being charged properly. The click you are hearing is probably the starter solenoid (electronic switch) closing, but either it isn't sending power to the starter motor, or it is but the starter isn't working. So it is most likely a bad starter motor, a bad starter solenoid or there could be ...


1

Run, don't walk, away. The breather box is often quite a complex system with MAF sensors etc inside as well as the air filter. If the air filter is missing, your car is breathing all the gunk that gets caught by the filter - not good. Over time, the extra grime will wear the engine out. If an important sensor like the MAF is missing, the car will run badly ...


-1

The main concern for me is stopping mice chewing the plastic on motor wires, pipes and the fuel pump ( had to replace that twice). So when I change my car an engine cover is a necessity!


0

No and may be, Clutch while plays important role in affecting top speed but as you mentioned you just changed it, should not give less top speed. As you got the servicing done there might be few mechanical issues such as Slipping clutch (even new ones sometime can be defective thus dissipating power while slipping), caused by worn out disc or incorrect ...


-1

changed oil with engine cold; now I believe it is the ONLY way to go. Particularly with the new synthetic oil that are designed to flow at 0 F


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