Hot answers tagged

14

What you have circled are the connectors for the fuel injectors (and obviously the fuel injectors are underneath of them). They have seals which protect from moisture, dirt, and debris, so in most cases there's no chance of misfire due to them getting wet. IOW: The "wet" stays on the outside of the connection. There'd have to be serious ...


12

I would run the engine again for a few minutes and then drain that engine oil as it will have any ATF that was still in the galleries. Then fit a new filter and refill with fresh oil. After that you should be good to go.


5

Will changing to the 5w-40 hurt the engine? Most likely not. Should you change to it? I my humble opinion, no. Here's the thing ... the manufacturer has said 5w-30 (assuming that is correct) is the proper weight oil for the engine. This means all of the tolerances and how the engine runs is setup to match the 5w-30 weight oil. By using the heavier oil, you'...


4

Here's what you do: Purchase a 395 black light like this one on Amazon. Shine it all over the engine and see what it looks like, noting what is reflective and what is not. Purchase some automotive dye and pour it into your crankcase through the oil fill neck. Drive the car normally for a few days. Check the engine again with the black light. You should ...


4

Most engines have an automatic idle (used to be manual using the choke) that gives you higher revs until engine/oil temps have warmed up a bit, by providing a little more fuel and air to the engine. It makes it easier to start and helps prevent stalling. So it shouldn't be a worry. Unless your bike didn't used to do this and has only just started?


4

According to this website, motor oil is incapable of freezing: Because motor oil does not crystallize, or solidify, at any temperature, it technically does not freeze. However, motor oil at freezing temperatures will begin to thicken, losing the viscosity that allows the oil to flow throughout and lubricate the engine. This increases the risk of damage to ...


3

A better solution is to fix these two problems and correct a few other common faults. Use a voltmeter or a test light to confirm if the switch is receiving and outputing 12 volt power. Then go to the bulb and see if it is receiving power. Even with power, the bulb would not work if the ground side is poor, or the bulb is open circuit. Also, look for ...


3

It's basically a tuned box that serves to reduce intake noise. Think of it as a muffler for the intake.


3

No, you shouldn't rebuild the engine unless you have a specific reason. 120k miles isn't that much for a modern engine, so there's no reason to spend the effort, time and money to strip it down. Clean the engine so you find and fix any leaks, do a compression check and do any service items that are due or will become due on the trip like timing chains, ...


3

A 40% slope is well beyond what you will find on nearly any actual street in the world. But assuming you did find such a place to park and if your oil pan was designed such that such a slope would put the oil in contact with the gasket, would that be harmful? Well, considering that under normal operating conditions there is nearly always oil in contact with ...


3

I used to keep to below 3000rpm for the first 500 miles, then rev the engine to 4500 sometimes but not thrashing it hard in any gear for long periods of time. So not doing a hill climb race in second at 6000rpm at full load for 10 minutes... Built several engines and ran them in gently but worked them and no problem. But some drivers will always cane an ...


3

Just follow the manufacturer's recommendations. I asked the dealer (at a main dealership) the same question last time I bought a new car, and what the mileage was for the oil change after running in. The response was "just drive it, and the first oil change is with the first service at 18,000 miles". (And the car didn't have any problems following ...


2

symptoms: LTFT -15% at @ idle and about 0% on next minimal TPS reading. What is going on: your injection ecu is reading rich condition and reducing fuel injected when fuel system is in closed loop hypothesis Makes me thinks of a tiny leak when injector not closing well/cloged, injector leaking a tiny amount of fuel => when rev up RPM leak amount become ...


2

There are many reasons for a cylinder misfire, many of them you can check for yourself. Easy to check are: Spark plugs: a worn plug, badly gapped plug or a fouled plug Spark plug not fully in: check to make sure the plugs are inserted properly Spark plug cables: worn, pinched or greasy cables may not transfer electricity properly. Also make sure the ...


2

That is the engine coolant reservoir. Add coolant until it reaches the minimum mark. Only add coolant when the engine and system is cold. It is dangerous to open the system when it is hot as it is pressurised. Of course the next question is when was it last checked and have you noticed any evidence of leaks?


2

My question is, how one can identify irrespective of the type or grade or rating of the engine oil is concerned that this is the time to change my engine oil. As with, respect to time or distance traveled or performance in relation to mileage? The only way that I know of would be to send a sample of the oil to a lab to be tested. The problem with this is ...


2

I'd like to respond to #2 and #4. The problem is likely poor combustion due to carbon deposits on the intake valves, spark plugs, fuel injectors and inside the combustion chambers. It is a very common problem with the GDI fuel system on your vehicle at that km's. I had exactly the same problem with two new cars with approximately the same km's (Jeep ...


2

Cars and bikes always have a few miles on the clock as they have road test etc. Dealers also sell very low mileage examples as they have been used for the sales staff and road tests for clients usually at a significant discount. But as for selling a second hand as new then you must have some real cowboys where you are. And I worked for a Main Dealer and have ...


2

With the help of a friend, I eventually got my car started. The spark plugs were very worn, but this was not the underlying cause of my problem. The engine had become flooded with fuel. The problem was resolved with a jump start from another vehicle (my jump start battery was not enough), and an extended key ignition. The starter motor turned the engine ...


2

No, it’s not related to changing the exhaust. This is down to servicing and maintenance. Questions like the following: When did you last do a filter and oil change? Did you check the fluid levels before leaving on your trip? Things like coolant, oil, brake fluid and even screenwash are simple checks to do weekly. Doing these checks prior to a long trip can ...


2

Waste of time. Air can already leak through the thermostat. Thermostats are baffles, not seals. The difference is a seal prevents all flow, a baffle only prevents significant flow. Baffles are used when the same fluid is on both sides and when a small amount of leakage is tolerable.


2

The lower level on the dipstick is fine for most of the "normal" operating scenarios. If you were doing extreme angles ie off-roading etc then it could possibly lead to oil starvation. For a Polo, then you won't have caused any damage. Just keep up with the servicing and get a friend or the mechanic to show you what to look for. Checking oil is ...


2

No, using a “magic” oil won’t repair the cat. But using the incorrect oil can easily damage it. Replacing the cat will be needed to get the car road legal.


2

WD40 will help make the engine not start. Try a teaspoonful of petrol into the air intake instead. Fresh of course, but you will need to take the plug out and dry it after the WD40.


2

Monster Jam Trucks are currently allowed to use Holley EFI systems. They are computer controlled and tuned. They also have data logging features to aid and enhance engine tuning.


2

The shampooing is to remove the rodents scents: Chances are that if another rodent of the same species comes along and smells the former one he will go into "attack male concurrent" mode, resulting in more chewed wires and an destroyed engine room. Ask me how I know. Therefor an engine wash isn't the worst choice. YMMV. The peppermint oil won't ...


2

Idling for a long time isn't ideal. But you haven't at this point in the process done anything catastrophic or anything close to it. Machining processes have dramatically improved over the last couple of decades. This is why we've seen break in procedures change over the years. Don't let this bother you, there is almost no chance that you did detrimental ...


2

Are you actually having a misfire? If so, then assuming the car was otherwise properly maintained, the most likely culprit on these engines would be a failed ignition module. Those are under the plastic cover that has the "VOLVO" brand on it and is visible in the photograph you provided. Injectors are passive, low impedance components, and moisture ...


1

The best or accepted way was to run the manifold face on emery cloth which was on a flat plate or surface plate. This would gradually reduce the high points. If the amount needed was significant then a machine shop could machine it.


1

Solution: in my case, I changed the Flywheel and the clutch kit.


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