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3

No. You need to connect the wire on terminal 30 to the wire on terminal 51, that is assuming you have not replaced the wire to the generator. If you have then you need to connect the alternator to the battery positive with a with suitable for the current output of the alternator. Then you need to find the ignition warning light wire and perhaps use the ...


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The PCM compares engine speed to vehicle speed. If there is a difference between the two (slippage), the PMC will set code P1870. So, disconnecting the TCC solenoid will prevent lock up, but you'll have to clear the code every time you drive above 50 MPH for a five minute period. All city driving at 45 MPH and under, screw it, disconnect the TCC and call it ...


1

Check the alternator/generator and its connector wires, fusible links, relays, etc thoroughly. If you are a technology savvy diyer check for proper working of the regulator/cut-out and diodes installed in the generator. Replacement of these components is not that costlier affair. Best of luck!!


20

Turns out I didn't read the instructions right (heh). It says to plug the charger in then set to "jump start" wait a couple minutes till it goes from "On" to "RdY" before cranking. https://www.batterychargers.com/sites/default/files/manuals/0099001912E-R4.pdf I had attempted cranking it when it said "On". It says "For severely discharged batteries, it ...


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If jumping the terminals at the relay made the pump work, then there is no point in checking the wiring from the fuse box to the pump, since you have just proved that it is OK. Things to try - Swapping the relay with an identical one from your fusebox - This will test the pump relay in another circuit and also try a known good one in the pump relay circuit....


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If the engine's already running, disconnecting the battery will still keep the engine running. If you're trying to start a car without a battery or with a very dead battery, it won't start (even with push start in a manual car) because there's no electrical supply (spark) to the combustion chamber. The battery is a backup for extra electricity use in car (...


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Your pictures are too small to show anything useful, but the usual method is (1) push the pin fully into the connector, so the back of the locking clip is not wedged against the end of the slot in the connector (2) press down on the locking clip with the removal tool (or something improvised) while you start to pull the pin out. In step (2) you need to get ...


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It sounds to me like you have connected one end of your test light to the positive side of the battery rather than the negative. This would give the results you are experiencing. I believe that this is what @solarMike is also suggesting in the comments.


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