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The most important reason that vehicles are designed with Insulated Earth Return is so that the chassis is not carrying an electric current at any time. This is because many vehicles get used in environments where there is a risk of explosion, such as mines or fuel tankers. Even food tankers delivering powders have this risk. If you watch a fuel delivery ...


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Some buses and many heavy trucks have a 12V negative ground system just like many cars but their larger usually diesel engines require more starting power than is common with a 12V system. So many have a 24V or even a 48V starting system which requires that the starter be isolated from the 12V system. Yes, using 2 or even 4 batteries adds weight and cost ...


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Stops getting a shock from touching the bodywork especially old fashioned chromed door handles. More importantly reduced the risk of spark between fuel nozzle and metal filling pipe on the car. All aircraft fuelling is done after attachment of earthed crocodile clamp for this reason.....even when handling kerosene used in jet engines despite a much lower ...


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If the bulbs are are working, replace the unit. Last Time I did it the flasher unit was so cheap that I do not remember the price.


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This sounds very much like a loose intermittant connection. You will need to check all the connections for that indicator from the switch onwards.


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Most fans have a switch fitted in the cooling system - change that for one of a lower temperature rating. They are often the same size. However, you could do what I did and fit a tank thermostat around one of the radiator hoses then adjust it until it comes on at the temperature desired. Trial and error here as the ambient temperature under the bonnet varies ...


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First thing I'd do is find an OBD scanner tool and see if it's throwing any codes. Some things that come to mind however are: Vacuum leak from somewhere. Throttle position sensor failure (which would explain stalling, lurching, hard starting, cruise not working etc) As others have stated, battery or alternator failing While it doesn't explain the cruise ...


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It does sound like it is the switch behind the control knob that is at fault. The fact that it is sometimes stiff would indicate a mechanical fault with the switch. Are there electrical connections to a switch directly behind the control knob, or is there a mechanical mechanism that moves an electrical switch that is located somewhere else? If the ...


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The shampooing is to remove the rodents scents: Chances are that if another rodent of the same species comes along and smells the former one he will go into "attack male concurrent" mode, resulting in more chewed wires and an destroyed engine room. Ask me how I know. Therefor an engine wash isn't the worst choice. YMMV. The peppermint oil won't ...


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The service center state coil pack 2 & 3 so it should/would be the two middle ones that need attention. If you look at image 11 (20210923_203515.jpg) and 12 (20210923_203520.jpg) of 50 (see below). Unable to get a clear view of 11 as it seems to be from the side/underneath. Inspect that one more. Possibly post a photo of it whilst unclipped, here is a ...


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It probably wouldn't cause any issues, however, every fuse box I've seen has an area which would allow you to slip a wire between the cover and the body of the fuse box. The only way this wouldn't happen is if you're using too large a gage of wire. If the wire is too thick to fit between, you need to run a relay instead and use a smaller wire to power the ...


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After pulling all fuses in both fuse boxes, I found the "Interior lights" fuse in the fuse box under the dash was blown. After replacing it, the rear lights work again. What a misnomer.


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I found the ideal setup. Put a 10A output 12V-to-24V step up converter on the black hot lead and white ground coming in from the RV standard 7pin plug to get some charge to the 24V batteries from the truck alternator while driving. This is not a big deal since there is so much solar power on the roof that the batteries don’t even really need power from the ...


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