35

I think your guess will be correct. The clamp has probably been over-tightened in the past, has stretched and is no longer giving a good tight connection. The copper will have been added to act as a shim to make a tight connection.


10

The most likely cause is that the cable that runs down to the starter motor has been rubbing against the body or the engine and has worn through the insulation.


7

Sounds like a dead short, one large enough like that should be easily visible, either through burn marks on a metal edge or bracket or a hole in the insulation. Check and follow all the main or thick wires.


5

A battery should be able to run the flashers for several hours and still start the car. There should be a sticker on your battery which tells the month and year it was manufactured. The sticker will either be M/YY indicating the month and year, or a code such as D6, where D is the fourth month of the year (sequentially mapped months A-L), and 6 is short for ...


4

Avoid this person; he is not doing you justice. Perhaps it was an accident, perhaps it wasn't. I doubt the damage is very severe, but there certainly is damage. Most likely a component called a "fusible link" has been blown, and/or a large capacity fuse. While these things are not difficult or expensive to repair by a reputable mechanic, they do need to ...


4

The camera was, most likely well most certainly, grounded via the rca cable with the other camera earth or ground. Don’t rely on this as it will increase “noise” or “interference”, ie the shielding on the rca cable works when both ends ie cameras are earthed or grounded.


4

The fuse box is designed for all vehicles and positions only used as needed for each vehicle. First check if those empty fuse slots have terminals in them, without terminals adding fuses does nothing. Then check the legend to see if that item or function is fitted or valid for the vehicle. Example : A fuse position can be provided for diesel heater plugs ...


4

Why copper? Because it is soft without being too plastic and easy to obtain. It is also highly conductive both thermally and electrically. Why do it? The terminal no longer clamps the post. The post is too small or the clamp is too large. This creates a sleeve. The thread on that bolt may also be stripped or seized. It is very commonly done to just hammer ...


3

Damage can come to the person's car who's providing the boost. I have seen blown alternators and other damage. The only lower risk way is disconnect the supply battery from the car. It will clear electronics settings doing this. These days I suggest getting a Lithium battery booster. I'm in my 50's unfortunately I have to turn people down if they want a ...


3

It sounds like he's trying to scam you for half the asking price. Connecting the battery the wrong way round will have damaged some of the car electrics, which is why it won't start, but the only way to find out the repair cost is to get a quote from a garage. That could be anything from a few dollars to replace a couple of fuses, up to serious money for a ...


3

No. Not possible. A dead bulb is just that ... dead. There is no continuity to light the bulb, therefore there's no continuity to drain the battery. Instead, I'd look at the battery itself. It's 5 years old, which is the (arguable) normal lifespan of a good battery. I'd bet if you had it load tested, you'll find it needs to be replaced.


3

The low beam circuit uses dedicated fuses. There are no fusible links in the headlamp circuits. In your case fuse 11 is the passenger side low beam.


3

Welcome to Motor Vehicle Maintenance & Repair! I have a 1985 MK1 Golf Cabriolet running a Pierburg 2e2 which I've had a number of issues with so hopefully I can help. This car runs a mechanical fuel pump so if the engine is turning over, the fuel pump ought to be drawing fuel. The fact that it ran on carb cleaner suggests to me that it isn't getting ...


3

Believe it or not, the first thing to do is to check all the tire pressures to make certain they are within spec and equal. A low pressure tire will make more revolutions/mile than the other properly inflated tires, and can confuse the ESC/ABS module into thinking there is a problem with one of the wheel speeds. The most common hardware failure that causes ...


3

There's a couple of things on the Captiva that can cause this - the root of the problem is that the wipers aren't registering as being in the "park" position correctly. This can be caused either by the wiper motor bearings "sticking" causing the wipers to not return to park correctly or the plastic disc on the wiper motor shaft that triggers the park ...


2

Well, never tried that... :) But the alternator may possibly survive as the regulator will be trying to keep the voltage up by increasing the rotor current which it will limit to a max valuer anyway. I don't think on a car that age there will be any other circuits affected, it's not as if you were welding... and blowing electronic flasher units.. So, ...


2

It means there are two filaments in the bulb, both rated at 35W. Presumably, dipped beam uses one of them and full beam uses both together. If you upgrade from 35/35 to 45/40, the headlight is taking 85W on full beam instead of 70W, compared with the alternator rating of 130W. We can't be sure if that will overload your alternator since we don't know the ...


2

I'd suggest picking up a feed from a wire which is live only when the ignition is on and hard wiring something like this product into the loom.


2

On our '07 Cobalt, (1) I have the same non-canceling turn signal problem. I believe it's a mechanical issue. This guy says he has a fix, and an explanation. (Long, lots of pix, I'm not going to quote it ... so, -1 for me.) (Additional info: Something I read (the owner's manual?) suggested Chevy had tricked up the switch, so it won't cancel on lane ...


2

Yes, it is possible to swap the pins on the female connectors. You must be very careful not to break the little plastic tooth that holds the metal pin in the connector. First, carefully pry out the white socket cover from the inside of the connector with a flathead screwdriver. This will expose the four pins and the tiny plastic tooth that latches into a ...


2

This is actually typical in many different vehicles. The idea is, when the defroster is on, the A/C kicks on to take the humidity out of the air, which then gets blown onto the windscreen, which dries it out allowing it to defog quicker. Some cars are setup like this while others aren't. This really isn't a bad thing, for two reasons: It keeps the A/C ...


2

One of two things happened: While you were attaching the jumpers to the Legacy, you dislodged the connection and caused it to go black. You attached one side or the other backwards on the initial attempt, causing a short, rather than a jumper circuit. I'd suggest your issue was actually #2. Since there was a lot less juice in the Legacy battery than what ...


2

For a battery thats 10 years old is very very old.. If you are not starting your car atleast once a week to keep the battery flowing id get a device that does a small trickle of flow to keep battery from just sitting because that really damages the internals. Can test the battery by taking it to an auto parts store like napa, autozone or o'reilly's. You ...


2

The button on the lid isn't working, or there's a problem with the switch wiring. Your testing has been pretty thorough, you know that the actuator works, that really doesn't leave any other options. You will need to get at the switch and wiring and do some testing, replacing the switch if necessary. EDIT: It sounds like the switch has been tested as ...


2

Thanks for all of the comments and suggestions for how to get my golf to run. I took a second look at the Pierburg, removed all the jets and measured the fuel flow and float angle. I found that the one of the pull down units wasn't creating a vacuum and replaced that - Unfortunately it nothing solved my immediate problem. So I turned my attention back to ...


2

When you pushed the sub into position, you effectively had a large lever (the sub) against a small wire, terminal and screw. The terminals are designed to be adequate for normal use, ie not loaded or having the wires under tension. Making sure that the wires are not strained is good practice. One thing you could do is clip the wires to a retaining point so ...


2

It's purely for power purposes. If you are just towing a small trailer you'll only need to use the black one , but if you also have a fridge and other high power kit on a caravan, then you will need to also use the white socket. pfjones.co.uk, who do a lot of electrics for caravans have the following on their tow bar electrics page (the first pic is black ...


2

NO, do not try to earth any of the coil(s) on a modern car - you could easily damage any one of several control units. However, you could consider putting a switch "in-line" with the fuel pump feed - much safer and will prevent it starting quite neatly.


2

As Solar Mike states, dont earth your coil(s). Easier yet, most modern cars have fuses which provide power to the coils and/or fuel injectors. Pull either one and the car won't start. Pulling your fuel injector fuse is better, because you won't wash your cylinders during the cranking process.


2

The smell you describe could be a sign of damage, or it could just be your power supply under a heavy load. The damage could be in the charging system, or the car. Your nose is a valuable tool for tracing that smell, as well as a visual inspection: Male charger plug: If you're using a bench power supply you likely hooked up a car charger male plug to it, ...


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